Ammo storage cabinet

[valnar]

I have a storage cabinet in the basement that I use to store ammo. It was there when I bought the house. Dimensions are 72" H x 36" W x 16" D. Looks like it was bought from a hardware store at some point.

If you can see from the pictures, the storage pegs are plastic and the cheap shelves are bending under the weight. Now normally I might post this question on a DIY forum somewhere, but I don't trust anyone else with posting pics of ammo.

Is it possible to utilize stronger shelves even though the cabinet is the same MDF(?) material? I tried ordering some metal pegs but they really aren't any stronger. The holes can probably only take so much weight too.

I'm willing to go with a custom cabinet to replace this whole thing, with shelves made to take 200-400 pounds, but I come up empty on the Internet. Any suggestions?

 

[Artg56]

I would modify your existing cabinets by bolting or heavy riveting 1” aluminum angle as the shelf support and then use deck boards for the shelves. It looks like the MDF sides are holding up pretty well so worth taking a chance with relatively inexpensive materials to save the expense of a new cabinet. In the past I’ve had several fireproof metal cabinets that were very robust but also costly.

 

[Legionnaire]

Measure the inside dimensions of the cabinet and look for a steel shelving unit you can build inside it. I picked up a metal storage closet that had no shelves and found a shelf unit that fit it perfectly. My unit was an inexpensive one often found in garages: something like this (link). The cabinet gives the shelf unit rigidity it would not have if it was freestanding.

 

[reddog81]

A couple of strategically placed 2x4’s would help take the weight off the pegs. Cut a 2x4 into sections of the appropriate length and place in to middle of each compartment. You’ll lose a bit of space but won’t have to worry about 1,000 lbs of ammo tumbling out.

 

[valnar]

Thanks everyone!

 

[Docendo Discimus]

A couple of strategically placed 2x4’s would help take the weight off the pegs. Cut a 2x4 into sections of the appropriate length and place in to middle of each compartment. You’ll lose a bit of space but won’t have to worry about 1,000 lbs of ammo tumbling out.

2x4s is what I would do. Strong and affordable.

 

[valnar]

deleted.

 

[Cityevader]

I'd replace the MDF shelves with plywood and use normal shelf pegs BUT run several screws from the outside, into the shelves, to prevent the sides bowing outward and tumbling the shelf off the pegs.

 

[tominboise]

I would, and just did on a set of shelves, replace the pegs with aluminum angle as mentioned, or 1X2 bolted, both side and across the back. I would then flip your MDF shelves over, so the crown (bend) is up, and screw a 1X2 to the bottom of the front lip. I did that to this cheap Craigslist bookshelf last weekend. You can see the 1X2 screwed on the front of the shelf. The same material goes around the three side of the cabinet (glued and screwed to the cabinet).

 

[AJC1]

Some angle and plywood through bolted to the outside of the cabinet will give you all the strength you need. Unibody construction is a hell of a lot stronger than the individual components.

 

[Cityevader]

Unibody construction....perfect customer fix for dumb product-engineers.

 

[AJC1]

Unibody construction....perfect customer fix for dumb product-engineers.

Their design constraint is to maximize profit. We are left to cobble a good fix within the limits of appearance, function, and cost.

 

[c1ogden]

Do you need an enclosed cabinet for security? If not, then something like this might work. I see you're already using the space under a stairway, this design will allow for numerous combinations of different lengths and heights of shelving and can always be modified to accommodate different size containers. This is not my setup, I pulled this pic off of a forum but I do use something similar.

 

[valnar]

I'd like it enclosed the way it is, or similar. I still have some more ammo to rearrange and put in there but afraid the weight would do the shelves in. It's right next to my furnace and water heater area so keeping it inconspicuous is good when I get those serviced.

I'm going to hit a hardware store this weekend and explore some of the suggestions in this thread. Replacing the shelves with something stronger and screwing in supports sounds like the best idea. Solid hardwood or plywood?

 

[AJC1]

I'd like it enclosed the way it is, or similar. I still have some more ammo to rearrange and put in there but afraid the weight would do the shelves in. It's right next to my furnace and water heater area so keeping it inconspicuous is good when I get those serviced.

I'm going to hit a hardware store this weekend and explore some of the suggestions in this thread. Replacing the shelves with something stronger and screwing in supports sounds like the best idea. Solid hardwood or plywood?

Solid hardwood is not stable. It moves with humidity and screws have to be cross grain for strength. You could do the entire project with a full sheet of ply if the number of shelves is small. Wood glue is also stupid strong. I recommend tightbond 2 or 3. It's available at Lowes and hd

 

[valnar]

OK so plywood shelves cut to the same parameters. I'll bring one in to HD. Screw the shelves in from the sides of the cabinet. They won't need to be adjusted.

I might need to see a pic of the al angle mentioned if anyone has an example, just to make sure what's in my head is accurate. I'm not the most handy person.

 

[JTHunter]

Valnar - aluminum angle can sag under weight like that over time, just not as quickly as the MDF.
If you can use 1" x 1" angle iron, you can put that under the existing shelves and screw it up to the bottom. Also, if those shelves can be turned over so the curve is up, the weight will then help to straighten the shelves out.

 

[AJC1]

OK so plywood shelves cut to the same parameters. I'll bring one in to HD. Screw the shelves in from the sides of the cabinet. They won't need to be adjusted.

I might need to see a pic of the al angle mentioned if anyone has an example, just to make sure what's in my head is accurate. I'm not the most handy person.

But 1

Valnar - aluminum angle can sag under weight like that over time, just not as quickly as the MDF.
If you can use 1" x 1" angle iron, you can put that under the existing shelves and screw it up to the bottom. Also, if those shelves can be turned over so the curve is up, the weight will then help to straighten the shelves out.

1" angle iron will be more ridged and cheaper.

 

[W.E.G.]

Keep the sides and the doors.

Get rid of the bottom shelves altogether.

Stack real ammo in real ammo cans ON THE FLOOR up to about five-cans-high.

Reinforce the cabinet with bracing as may be needed, but lets the cans support the cans. They were designed for the job.

Ammo, brass, and bullets all need to be in real ammo cans. Cardboard boxes are the devil.

You can keep the doors and a couple top shelves for lightweight stuff you want to be out of view.

 

[rdnktrkr]

I use something similar inside to hide items in plain view, (2door armoire) I used 1x2s as supports using glue and screws, this is not used for bulk storage but HD rounds, lights and HD firearms, magnetic locks keeps that side closed and other side is regular storage.
For bulk ammo a wood 1x2 as horizontal supports glued and screwed is very sturdy. I like the idea of flipping the MDF allowing it more years of service. Choose a good glue that will stick to metal and wood.
Stay away from plastic shelves for heavy storage, the ones I've seen used started sagging and cracking, I found one that had metal horizontal supports that I started using in the pole barn that seems to be acceptable.

 

[Retired MSG]

I did a variation of this
https://1withabullet.wordpress.com/...jU_86BQWtjAZAia9TbbkWDqEiKG3kciYpbdiVwqmffG_Q

I made the bottom shelf deeper for the bigger cans, amazing how strong this is. I lag bolted it to studs too

 

[CoalCrackerAl]

I keep my ammo on a shelf like below. Ammo i have in the military style boxes i keep on the floor.
Hyper Tough 4 Tier Wire Shelf, Zinc, 1400 lb Capacity - Walmart.com

 

[lightman]

Lots of good suggestions above. Don't overlook electrical unistrut for bracing the shelves. Its available in different thicknesses and finishes.

I'm bad about over building. I would cut new shelves from 3/4" plywood, set them on angle iron supports on the ends and reinforce the shelf with angle iron screwed on underneath. Would be expensive but permanent.

 

[valnar]

I bought new 3/4" plywood and some assorted hardware. I just haven't had time to screw it all in. I did measure and cut the boards correctly so far. I'll update the thread when I'm complete. thanks everyone.

 

[BigBlue 94]

I have 48" wide, 84" tall, 18" deep metal cabinets for my ammo and reloading supplies. The shelves are sturdy but sag in the middle. I cut whatever scrap wood i had laying around to fit as a vertical brace in the middle of each length of shelf. Ive used 2x12's, MDF, and some other random stuff.

You loose a tiny amount of space but also gain another divider to use for organizational purposes.

Any time you use screws on MDF, drill pilot holes and countersinks. I also second the use of Titebond glues. My pops was a carpenter and swears by it.