Any Concerns Over Painting Gun?

[CajunBass]

Why do people paint guns? It is just something that never occurred to me to do

I did this one about twenty or twenty-five years ago because the factory finish was worn and scratched up from riding in the back of Jeep and pickups, and being toted under my arm for many a mile. The paint has held up better than the original finish.



I probably should do it again, but why bother?

 

[AK103K]

I agree with others who feel that a good DIY paint job is pretty hard to do, and many DIY jobs that start out looking good rapidly wind up looking like crap

If youre the least bit handy, they arent hard to do at all.

As far as rapidly looking like crap, I havent found that to be the case, and they actually work better as they age.

It's a personal preference, but my concern is that there is more risk than there is gain, and in most cases there is little functional benefit that comes from the financial costs.

It is personal preference, no doubt. Some like shiny toys, some dont.

Functional benefit? From a practical standpoint, I always found things went better when the gun was cammied up too, so I believe there is a good bit of benefit.

Looking at it as a real tool...

I think this is where things separate a little. Some treat them like they are something special, to put up on a pedestal, and are horrified at any little blemish. Painting them? OMG!

Then you have those who see them as tools, and those blemishes, are simply character marks.

Im kind of in both camps, depending on what it is.

 

[cdk8]

If youre the least bit handy, they arent hard to do at all.

As far as rapidly looking like crap, I havent found that to be the case, and they actually work better as they age.


It is personal preference, no doubt. Some like shiny toys, some dont.

Functional benefit? From a practical standpoint, I always found things went better when the gun was cammied up too, so I believe there is a good bit of benefit.

I'm guessing you are talking mainly about rifles in regards to the functional benefit that comes from changing a color or pattern? My post was in regards to hand guns and I should have been more specific in that. I do not have enough experience with painting rifles to have an informed opinion, but I could see various functional benefits from camo paint jobs in that regard.

I can't say I agree with being the "least bit handy" making this easy. While I have not used every product on the market, at least with GunKote and Cerakote, correct application requires various tools and working knowledge. I assume with your usage you have the tools and know how to do the correct sand blast, degrease, and cure, and by doing so the coatings perform better than most of the DIY coatings I have seen (that don't fall into that category.)

I'm not the fastest learner in the world, but at least for me it took multiple go rounds for me to get GunKote to perform as well as it does when a more experienced user applies it. (My use of GunKote has been on almost exclusively on knives, if that matters.) Others may be able to get flawless or near flawless success on the first try, but I personally didn't have that kind of luck (for what it's worth.)

 

[AK103K]

I'm guessing you are talking mainly about rifles in regards to the functional benefit that comes from changing a color or pattern?

Yup, long guns in general.

I dont paint handguns, and usually not knives, although I have on occasion.

I also dont usually use the more permanent paints, as I do want the option of removing them later. I have used Brownells Aluma Hyde II with good results, and have used it as a base coat on a couple of guns. You can use the other paints on top of it, and remove them later, without the AH II coming off.

As far as prep and application, the more permanent paints require more detailed and careful prep, as well as close adherence to the directions, if you want a decent job. With things like Testors, Krylon, etc, a good degrease is usually all thats necessary.

If Im doing something for the first time, I also dont try things out on the gun itself. A 2x4 or piece of scrap of some sort is my practice or experimentation platform.

I know this isnt for everyone, and thats fine, as you said earlier, it is personal choice. My doing it has, for the most part, always been done as a practical measure, and with anything, there is a bit of a learning curve. Im no artist, and believe me, if I can do it, I would think most others could as well. It really isnt all that difficult. The hardest part, is getting the balls to do the first one. After that, look out! It can become an addiction.

 

[Hookeye]

I've killed plenty of game with non camo'd guns.
Some even of high gloss finish.

But dinging up walnut just sucks.

So most of my stuff is now synthetic. Goose, turkey and coyote guns.
Matte finish too.

I am NOT a fan of fully painted firearms. But a boring black plastic stock can be made to look better with a decent rattle can job.

View attachment 734694

View attachment 734695

 

[Hookeye]

I did Gunkote a couple of shotgun receivers.
Old 1100's that had been neglected by previous owners.
Both have held up fine........one I still have and it's my turkey gun.
Bbl on that rig is a reg Remington steel shot bbl (my 1100 is a magnum).
Remington bluing and polish for many years on their supposed dressy stuff.......was halfway to matte LOL.

Best camo gun aint gonna get you crap if you move when you shouldn't.

I killed many a goose with an RKW Magnum 1100 and 870. But I knew where the geese were coming from (most times) and kept the gun low and pointed fwd.
Still run an 1100 trap with shiny wood on dove once in a while. Same rules apply.

Do think sunlight can reveal location from considerable distance if running a non matte firearm. But then what good is a flat gun when somebody is wearing glasses and looking around..............or drives too close to the game or slams the door, or stomps hurriedly to their stand/setup?

A camo gun might be useful, but too many IMHO think it absolves other sins.

 

[Ash]

The statement that only men who paint their arms are in someway the only legitimate shooters, those men who view their arms as tools rather than toys, is silly. Mine are tools, used for hunting ducks, rabbits, deer, squirrels, as well as offing rabid racoons or protecting home and hearth. I don't paint. Mine are tools. They are well-cared for and not rusty. They get used.

There's plenty of room for us manly men who use our tools without painting them.

I haven't painted my Fluke 87v nor have I painted my Williams wrenches either.

 

[AK103K]

Best camo gun aint gonna get you crap if you move when you shouldn't.

True, but since the gun tends to be attached to the hands (which should be cammied to, as should the face, if youre really serious), whats going to draw attention more? The black & brown pole moving/swinging around, or something thats had its outline broken, and more tends to mimic the background?

I used to hunt doves lying out in open fields. I got a lot more shooting, wearing my cammies with a painted gun, than I did in blue jeans and a tee shirt, with an unpainted gun.

 

[AK103K]

The statement that only men who paint their arms are in someway the only legitimate shooters, those men who view their arms as tools rather than toys, is silly.

No one was challenging your manhood.

If youre feeling challenged, thats on you.

They are both tools and toys, depending on the mood/moment, and sometimes both at the same time. Some just work better at times, with a little disruption. The preservation properties of paint, is just another plus.

No one is telling you to paint anything, if you dont want to.

 

[Hookeye]

I got top score in the dove field one yr at a F&W area, running my shiny 1100 magnum and wearing a rock n roll concert T shirt and blue jeans.

Much to the dismay of the Eddie Bauer clan.

Picked a good spot, stayed out of the sun and made a blind from cut branches.
And I didn't shoot like crap either.

 

[Hookeye]

Some of my guns have painted stocks, some don't. Some wear walnut.
Don't see what the big deal is.

Personally, I don't paint over wood. But a synth is fair game. Change your mind?
Acetone and a roll of paper towels.

 

[Hookeye]

Ideally a decent film dip of nice wood, with a matte finish.
But dip prices are quite a bit more than remnant spraypaint in the garage.

Have been toying with the idea of painting faux woodgrain. Was an art major, pretty clever too. But also am lazy...........2 hrs is the max I'll do on a stock paintjob.

Having chewed up a nice walnut 870SP during one deer season, and putting a few dings in my figured#1B over the years chucking.........and taping up my 1100 mag for turkey..............I like plastic stocks.

You can paint them. And if you want to change the color/pattern......paint again.

But my 870 Supermag is still all black. I think it'd be cool to mod some old police walnut for it.......

I did steel wool a reg 1100 RKW stock set on a rigI pieced together a while back. Cut it for recoil pad too. Came out great. Kinda sorta SP.

 

[hamp sandwich]

Here's a couple of CZ82's that I refinished. The one with wood grips is all KG Gunkote and the green one is all Duracoat. They both had a rough finish when I got them, but now they're like new. The green one has a bit of holster wear, but I like the way it came out.

 

[matrem]

We all know walnut and glossy blue or even flat black aren't always the best choice under at least a few circumstances.

Tried to attach a picture, but me and this laptop aren't seeing eye to eye yet.

 

[matrem]

 

[Hookeye]

I'm not worried about hiding from humans.

For most applications the common patterns seen in factory camo and or film dips..............looks very good, but doesn't work so well.

The patterns not big or contrasting enough (look like solids at moderate distance).

Many I think are camo'd to stalk the consumer's wallet.

 

[Ash]

What a human cannot see is not necessarily the same as animals. Painting a rifle to avoid human detection does not always work as well for wildlife, whose visual spectra can be different than ours.

 

[AK103K]

The patterns not big or contrasting enough (look like solids at moderate distance).

Thats a problem with most patterns, and especially the darker ones.

I always had the best luck with the old ASAT pattern with animals and birds. Works well with humans too. Its a light background with broad, contrasting stripes. Its also one of the easiest/simplest to paint. Looks like this....



Overall, Ive always had the best results with the patterns with the lighter colored base, and contrasting, disruptive patterns, and the patterns dont even have to be a pattern, just something that breaks the outline well. They tend to work across a broader spectrum of backgrounds, and even in backgrounds that you wouldnt think that they would.

Many I think are camo'd to stalk the consumer's wallet.

No doubt. Around here, camo of every pattern and color is the year round dominant "color" of clothing, gear, and even vehicles. Somebody's making money off it.

What a human cannot see is not necessarily the same as animals. Painting a rifle to avoid human detection does not always work as well for wildlife, whose visual spectra can be different than ours.

True, but it is important to break the outline of the body and the gun regardless.

Interesting read here. http://www.whitetail.com/camo1.html Check out how well the Hawaiian shirt works about half way down.

 

[doubleh]

I've only painted one gun, a dedicated coyote hunting rifle. If Iwant it back blue it's no big deal. Acetone quickly removes most paint.

A note about Krylon Fusion. It is suitable for many surfaces besides plastic. Read the label on the back.

 

[Hookeye]

Yeah some animals see colors differently, so avoid the stuff of bluish tones.
Dunno if I posted it before or not, but I did a grey black stripe of a treestand once. In the eve the grey damn near glowed blue.

Used some cheap primer.

Have not had issue with the flat camo spray paints.
That said, I did use some old paint to do my TC. One bbl/forearm is on the .22 lr match bbl. The other on the .35 Rem.

If it does glow a bit it'll be up in a treestand when toting the .35 setup.
Am not concerned about it.

After deer season the .35 Rem might be sold, will just run it in .22 lr form.
I bought a Ruger #1 for next yrs deer hunting.

Yup, went back to walnut. Not very good chunk of it though....no figure. Won't feel so bad dinging it up.

 

[Hookeye]

On my 700............flat blacked the stock after clean and light abrading.
Then built stripes out of blue masking tape (torn for feathered edge).
Hit the green, then tan at stripes fr max contrast.
4 coats of clear on it and after a few yrs it still looks new.
The clear removed some of the flat, but it's certainly not gloss (matte clear does add back some shine though).

One must be very careful when doing stripes, as it's real easy to develop topography.

The secret to doing a god paintjob...........knowing when to say when.
Too many get something halfway decent and think they need to keep going, or mod/fix it.......usually the initial version looked the best (or wasn't messed up totally).

My 700 has some stripes I'd like to clean up, was trying different patterns/effects. 5 yrs later it is as it was.

If it's close enough...............leave it alone!

 

[zoom6zoom]

i would avoid painting it orange, but otherwise, have at it.

If you're not sure you will like the look, you can always try using some camo stretch tape first to get an idea.... and even paint over the tape if you want to practice.

 

[cdk8]

Yup, long guns in general.

I dont paint handguns, and usually not knives, although I have on occasion.

I also dont usually use the more permanent paints, as I do want the option of removing them later. I have used Brownells Aluma Hyde II with good results, and have used it as a base coat on a couple of guns. You can use the other paints on top of it, and remove them later, without the AH II coming off.

As far as prep and application, the more permanent paints require more detailed and careful prep, as well as close adherence to the directions, if you want a decent job. With things like Testors, Krylon, etc, a good degrease is usually all thats necessary.

If Im doing something for the first time, I also dont try things out on the gun itself. A 2x4 or piece of scrap of some sort is my practice or experimentation platform.

I know this isnt for everyone, and thats fine, as you said earlier, it is personal choice. My doing it has, for the most part, always been done as a practical measure, and with anything, there is a bit of a learning curve. Im no artist, and believe me, if I can do it, I would think most others could as well. It really isnt all that difficult. The hardest part, is getting the balls to do the first one. After that, look out! It can become an addiction.

Yeah I don't have enough experience with coating long guns to say much on them either way. I've seen some pretty badass pictures and I can see various functional benefits there but in most cases I don't think it would benefit hand guns (at least ones not used for hunting.) But I have seen a lot of DIY painting done on handguns, and most of the ones I have seen have not held up well. I am guessing part of that comes down to the prep and that many were not prepped correctly. I've seen tons of Glocks with paint jobs in terrible shape and I am guessing that the coating Glock uses is one that chemically bonds to the metal, is hard to remove, and if not fully removed the coating does not stick very well.

Does Aluma Hyde need the full blast & degrease to work or is the prep a little less rigorous than some of the ceramic coatings?

With GunKote, it seems there is a very narrow window for deviation in the prep. The issue I was initially having with GunKote was that I was using sand that was too fine and the coating I was applying was too thick. 120 grit and a thinner coating wound up working better for me, but it took a while for me to realize that, and it took quite a while to get to the point where I was getting the coating very even across all of the different angles (part of that was realizing that preheating the parts seems to help for whatever reason?)

 

[Ash]

I've refinished a couple of pistols with alumahyde (CZ's that came with that kind of finish originally, plus a Tanfoglio). They must be thoroughly degreased prior to finish installation.

 

[AK103K]

Does Aluma Hyde need the full blast & degrease to work or is the prep a little less rigorous than some of the ceramic coatings?

It doesnt need a bead blast to apply (removal is something else), but it does need a good degrease, and about a week left alone to cure.

If you go to Brownells website, and do a search on it, they have links on the page to videos on how to paint with it. Good stuff for pretty much any paint too actually, and well worth watching.