AR 15 is a muzzle device necessary?

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solman

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This might be a stupid question but, since I live in NJ we are not permitted an evil flash hider . I was thinking of buying an upper and just running the barrel in a lathe to take the threads off and leave it at that. I don't think I can have the barrel threads with nothing on it either. I have gone the compensator device on my existing rifles but it makes the blast very loud. Not appreciated by any shooter next to me. I don't seem to find AR's without a muzzle device of some sort so I thought I would ask.
 
Yes, you can cut back the barrel to eliminate the threads.

However, I'd recommend a Kaw Valley Precision Linear Compensator instead. It reduces recoil almost as much as a traditional compensator, but without directing the last toward the shooter or those nearby.
 
Varminterror said:
Yes, you can cut back the barrel to eliminate the threads.

However, I'd recommend a Kaw Valley Precision Linear Compensator instead. It reduces recoil almost as much as a traditional compensator, but without directing the last toward the shooter or those nearby.
Click to expand...

Or the Troy Claymore. Same kind of comp, a little more expensive, but I think better looking. I have a couple of them, like them very much.
 
Varminterror said:
However, I'd recommend a Kaw Valley Precision Linear Compensator instead. It reduces recoil almost as much as a traditional compensator, but without directing the last toward the shooter or those nearby.
Click to expand...

MachIVshooter said:
Or the Troy Claymore. Same kind of comp, a little more expensive, but I think better looking. I have a couple of them, like them very much.
Click to expand...
Agree with both of these guys. I have tried both and they work pretty well.

These days i have been using a Kinetic Tec muzzle brake that comes with a sleeve.

That way during times when I need a brake, I have one. Any other times I just put the sleeve on and it works like a linear comp.
 
Dumb question. Since you don't have the upper yet, have you looked for crowned barrels? No threads to eliminate or cover with an approved device.
 
A muzzle device is not necessary. DPMS, Rock river, and others make rifles /uppers with 20" barrels without a muzzle device and advertise as varmint, predator, prairie, match, etc. A quick search reveals the list of evil features that must be limited. There are several ways to be NJ legal. Not sure exactly what config of other evil features you want to keep except to not have the flash hider. The lathe idea is probably the most inexpensive. It seems like you don't want another NJ legal brake that is not a flash hider and whatever pinning and welding that's required. I suppose the barrel could be cut down and re-crowned as long as you started with one longer than 16". IMHO, the easiest way would be to purchase or place a custom order (not really that expensive in the whole scheme) for the upper you want with a compliant barrel.
 
Yes, you can cut back the barrel to eliminate the threads.

Just to be clear, you could turn the threaded diameter down to eliminate threads[1], but don't shorten the barrel to below 16 inches or Bad Things will happen. All in all, I'd just buy unthreaded to start with.
 
I like them for a number of reasons, depending on the rifle and what I use it for. I have a very loud muzzle brake (bushmaster AK74 type) on my 3 gun rifle to dampen the rise. It works very well, but the guy standing next to me with the pro timer doesn't like it much. That's why they make peltors, though. My guns that I run suppressed need a FH to attach the suppressor. Otherwise, I will run a GI type if for no other reason, as a crown protector.
 
I have shot more than a few with no muzzle device. No issue there as far as function or anything like that! You can tune the gas system if recoil is an issue. A properly gassed AR is awesome!

What if you left the threads and had a thread protector pinned (permanently attached as per federal laws)?
 
As others have said, I wouldn't cut the barrel down. Most of your carbines have 16 1/8" barrels, so there might be a little bit of margin for you to cut off the threads, but I wouldn't risk any bad federal juju.

Pinning or welding on a thread protector would probably be the best way to go.
 
Unthreaded barrels are hypothetically more accurate, but you don't have any options down the road if you change your mind. Either buy unthreaded to begin with or use a thread protector. I have a thread protector on my AR right now so I can go back and forth to a can. I don't like muzzle devices that are torqued on, as I believe they squeeze the muzzle too much. I prefer self tightening muzzle devices that don't have to be indexed.
 
Thanks for all the great responses.
I was thinking no device so as not to have to pin or weld to the barrel. I tried welding once before but I was not really successful. I could pin it I have done that before but it's a bit of a hassle. I hate living in NJ but my job keeps me here. Also I am not shortening the barrel as I know length of 16 is required. Just turn the threads down so it's not a threaded barrel. I wanted to try a cheaper upper from PSA or the like and didn't want to drop 40-50 dollars with shipping for a muzzle break. I might just keep looking for an upper with crowned barrel to come around.
Thanks all.
 
solman said:
Thanks for all the great responses.
I was thinking no device so as not to have to pin or weld to the barrel. I tried welding once before but I was not really successful. I could pin it I have done that before but it's a bit of a hassle. I hate living in NJ but my job keeps me here. Also I am not shortening the barrel as I know length of 16 is required. Just turn the threads down so it's not a threaded barrel. I wanted to try a cheaper upper from PSA or the like and didn't want to drop 40-50 dollars with shipping for a muzzle break. I might just keep looking for an upper with crowned barrel to come around.
Thanks all.
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I didn't realize you couldn't have threaded barrels at all. I thought you just couldn't have flash hiders. That's harsh.
 
Here's an amazing deal on a very nice barrel. These have consistent, positive reviews regarding accuracy. I personally own one and its just as accurate as my LaRue. Disregard the (.223 only) on the website, its just there to cover their arse. Bushmaster (aka Remington) chambered these with a long throat, they are 5.56 safe. I've ran mostly 5.56 in mine as well. http://www.jsesurplus.com/REMINGTON18FLUTEDPOSTBANBARREL-BLEM.aspx
 
Mainly you will not notice much diference in shooting the AR15 in .223/5.56 in day light. I have fired M16A1 with the Flash hider removed in the dark and it does let more light get to the shooter. From the sides the muzzle flash seemed almost ball like rather than the long tounge of flame I saw on some .30 calish hunting rifles. I took a carbine class with one shooter that had a non threaded so FS free AR and another had a Mini-14. Both were "brighter" than standard FS and much brighter than some of the after markets like the old Vortex.......but neither seemed as bright as say my M-1 Grand or even an M-1 carbine. Of course different powders and different loads may produce different results. Weirdest thing about ARs in the dark is seeing the flame at the ejection port. After dark adaptation of the eyes seeing a shot looking at the receiver from the side can leave an after image of the ejection port in ones eyes......a suppressor makes this worse BTW.

Good luck on your build.

-kBob
 
grampajack said:
Unthreaded barrels are hypothetically more accurate
Click to expand...

Who told you that? Unless the barrel walls are so thin after threading that the muzzle flares, threading the external profile will have no bearing on mechanical accuracy. What you hang off the end of the tube might, but that's an entirely different discussion.
 
MachIVshooter said:
Who told you that? Unless the barrel walls are so thin after threading that the muzzle flares, threading the external profile will have no bearing on mechanical accuracy. What you hang off the end of the tube might, but that's an entirely different discussion.
Click to expand...
It's not the threads themselves. It's just the fact that you have to turn the barrel down to such a small diameter at the muzzle.
 
No, not necessary. HOWEVER, forgetting all about suppressing flash or reducing flip with a brake, etc. - to my way of thinking, the MAIN / best reason for a muzzle device on a rifle (and the reason I like them even on hunting turnbolts - well, *especially* on hunting turnbolts) is to keep mud / snow out of the bore itself, when you stick your rifle's muzzle in same accidentally, which happens often to me ... a basic "A2 style" flash hider or just anything with holes in it that traps the mud before it pushes all the way into the bore, but can be blown out through the holes on the sides when you fire preventing a serious failure / damage is a good thing. This is a good reason for having them on any rifle, including "fighting rifles". Should we do that - consolidate all the acronyms (EBR, HDR, MSR, CQBR, WROL/SHTF, PDW, etc) into just one handy phrase of "fighting rifles"? Or is "MSR" better? Which one, MSRs or fighting rifles as the better all-purpose phrase? I guess MSR might be more palatable to the blissninnies.

Oh, and don't turn anything in a lathe - just order a $7 thread protector from Amazon and put it on. Attach it with red or black loctite or similar if you never want it to come off again, or better yet, with blue loctite in case you want to sell it later to someone in a freer state.

That would be better than your 2nd best option of just cutting and recrowning where the threads begin (assuming the barrel is still at least 16").

3rd best option would be turning the threads off - would not be aesthetically pleasing.
 
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