AR mount

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mcmurry

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L.A. Lower Arkansas
I have a Palmetto State Armory AR-15 with a removable carry handle. The front post site isn't removable. I understand it's a job for a gunsmith to remove this post unless I take a cut off wheel to it. There are no gunsmaiths in my part of my state. What kind of mount do I need to use with this situation? Or maybe "style" is better than "kind" as I understand a lot depends on the scope or sight. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
 
All ar mounts are tall. Its not to clear the front sight, it's because the gun has no drop to the stock, so your face cannot get low enough.

I really like the value provided by the utg pro mounts. https://www.amazon.com/UTG-Accu-Syn...E93EH73G464&psc=1&refRID=Z5QAQ8W74E93EH73G464


My favorite mount is made by aero precision. https://www.graniteridgeoutfitters....t-1-Scope-Mount-Anodized-Black-APRA210100.htm

If you use a higher power scope (3-9x) you would t see the sight. If you use a low power scope, the sight is in the way. It can be removed, but it's not the easiest thing in the world. Those taper pins are on tight. But if you have a framing hammer and a decent punch, you can knock them out, gri d off the tower and BBQ Paint it black. The taper pins ensure it goes back in the right spot.
 
I like the Burris PEPR cantilever mounts. Very stoutly built and tall enough to mostly clear the front post. As Greyling said, most scopes will focus right past it.

The pepr is very solid. However, the reasons I pass over it (and I bring these up just as things to think about when choosing a scope mount, not that they are dealbreakers for anybody but me) are that I don't like the snaggy bolts on the side or the picatinny rail tops. I don't care for how bulky it is either. Especially on a smaller scope. and it weighs 8.3 oz. The utg weighs 4.8 and the aero 3oz. And lastly, burris wants rather a lot of money for it. That said, when compared to an american defense that runs $200, it's downright reasonable.
 
The pepr is very solid. However, the reasons I pass over it (and I bring these up just as things to think about when choosing a scope mount, not that they are dealbreakers for anybody but me) are that I don't like the snaggy bolts on the side or the picatinny rail tops. I don't care for how bulky it is either. Especially on a smaller scope. and it weighs 8.3 oz. The utg weighs 4.8 and the aero 3oz. And lastly, burris wants rather a lot of money for it. That said, when compared to an american defense that runs $200, it's downright reasonable.
If you get a new PEPR, they come with two sets of upper clamps, with and without the top picatinney rails. I agree, mounting anything on top of the scope is silly.

I kinda like the big mounting bolts. If you needed to rip the scope off in the field, any set of pliers or a multitool would work. The mounts which use tiny Allen head clamps would require the proper size wrench.
 
Your front sight would be so far out of focus you wouldn't see it, but the scope's line of sight will be over the front sight anyway, for the reasons mentioned above. I agree, the Burris P.E.P.R. mount is a nice one but how far do you plan to shoot your rifle? How much elevation is available on the scope reticle (in MOA or milliradians)? If you plan on really long ranges, 600 yards or more, you might want a scope mount with extra elevation built in. These basically tilt the scope down a couple of degrees out of parallel with the barrel, it's so little it's hard to tell. This allows more elevation adjustment for long range shooting. I had a P.E.P.R. on my AR rifle (6.5 Grendel) but changed it to a Warne with 20 MOA of elevation. Warne also makes "flat" mounts without the extra elevation, and they are exceptional quality.
DSC09503.JPG
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I’ve tried a number of mounts over the years and found all to be acceptable. As with most things I’ve also found a favorite in the Aero mount. If you’re sacrificing the weight penalty of a scope on an AR then a lightweight mount makes sense.

While the Warne is light and very well built, it is a more difficult installation that in my case required a rubber mallet. Removing it expediently likely isn’t an option if that matters.

My Rock River was an “free” add-on when I purchased my rifle and is far bulkier than need be. It would also be the most expensive option of the 3 if purchased retail.

Aero.
F2452B85-D8FB-4F5B-A54D-5B3026A4A066.jpeg

RRA.
7CE347FE-0866-4B24-8224-C521141213E3.jpeg

Warne.
41B18655-6890-4FFA-B745-5B9F7FEC9A3D.jpeg
 
AR fixed front sight should "disappear" at 3X or so.
Still waiting for my Leupold mount to show up (US made).
Ordered through LGS and it's going on 3 weeks.
Ridiculous.
 
it will disappear, but it looks a little goofy to have a front sight and no rear. at least to me. Personally, I'd buy a low profile gas block and handguard.

I'd order this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ for 30 bucks (yes, it is fine quality. yes, american handguards are that overpriced.)

and I'd order something like this https://www.wojtekweaponry.com/BLEM...e-Low-Profile-Clamp-Gas-Block-BLEM_p_189.html for my gas block.
or something like this if I wanted to save money.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1020945287

without knowing what you want in a scope, I'd give serious consideration to this scope https://www.blackhoundoptics.com/product/genesis-1-6x24-sfp-moa/
or this one of these
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...044dg_2_5_10x44_engage_riflescope_deploy.html
https://www.primaryarms.com/primary-arms-4-16x44-sfp-riflescope-mil-dot-reticle
https://www.natchezss.com/sig-sauer...-sfp-quadplex-reticle-0-25-moa-adj-black.html
https://www.natchezss.com/bushnell-...x-reticle-35-12-fov-3-5-eye-relief-matte.html
 
I can personally confirm that the A2 sight disappears in a scope, even if its well into the view. It is certainly NOT a gunsmith job to remove an A2 FSB. A hammer, a punch of almost any size, and a table are all it takes. You only have to loosen the pins, and they fall out. They are taper pins, so you don't have to drive them out, just loosen, though it takes considerable force to loosen. then a screw on gas block. You do need to drive out the gastube roll pin. All told, replacing an A2 sight with a low profile gas block is a 20 minute job, with 20$ worth of HomeDepot tools. But again, the sight won't bother you anyway.
 
I couldn't quite get how that A2 front sight could disappear either but I'd read enough comments that I believed it. I have a 3x9 scope on my M&P Sport II and although the front sight is definitely in the way, reaching about halfway up the front lens, I've never noticed it, even at 3x. Magic I tell ya!
 
A proper bench block and a sturdy bench makes knocking those pins out easy.
Yes, and there are several YouTube videos out there on how to do it right and the proper tools to use.
Removing the A frame sight means replacing the gas block. Again, pretty easy with a proper bench block and the right punches.
 
I can personally confirm that the A2 sight disappears in a scope, even if its well into the view. It is certainly NOT a gunsmith job to remove an A2 FSB. A hammer, a punch of almost any size, and a table are all it takes. You only have to loosen the pins, and they fall out. They are taper pins, so you don't have to drive them out, just loosen, though it takes considerable force to loosen. then a screw on gas block. You do need to drive out the gastube roll pin. All told, replacing an A2 sight with a low profile gas block is a 20 minute job, with 20$ worth of HomeDepot tools. But again, the sight won't bother you anyway.
Much easier, better, cheaper to get out the hacksaw, file and cold blue. Then you will end up with a factory pinned gas block that will NEVER come loose.
 
I couldn't quite get how that A2 front sight could disappear either but I'd read enough comments that I believed it. I have a 3x9 scope on my M&P Sport II and although the front sight is definitely in the way, reaching about halfway up the front lens, I've never noticed it, even at 3x. Magic I tell ya!
If the sun is just right and you are on any power less than 6 you will notice it a little
 
A proper bench block and a sturdy bench makes knocking those pins out easy.
You have to knock them out the right direction, use a nail punch or taper pin punch, and a big hammer. Also it helps to hold the punch with a set of vice grips so your thumb does not get smashed.
 
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