Armisport 2 Band Enfield falling to half cock

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Jenrick

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My 2 band Enfield has suddenly developed a strange malady. Previously it had a pretty decent trigger, but now I find that about 60% of the time, pressing it will cause the hammer to fall to half cock. After taking the lock off, nothing obvious was the problem. Looking at it, the full cock notch seem fine, the sear locks good, and the sear spring and main spring are plenty strong. Any suggestion on where to look?

-Jenrick
 
It looks okay, but without a sear I know is in spec I have no way of comparing. It was perfectly fine, never had this problem, when I put it up about a month ago. Pulled it out, and tested the lock, suddenly this happened.

-Jenrick
 
Is the lock clean? Soak it in hot soapy water and brush away all fouling. Dry with compressed air and see if the problem persists. .
 
Doesn't this lock have a fly, flyer or other way butterfly (differents names for the same part) ?
If inside the lock you have this, look carefully if the trigger doe't scratch it for a long time. That could be a reason and this reason is often causing this defect...
 
As far as I know this lock is not supposed to have a fly, nor does it. Yep it is clean, I pulled it apart and cleaned and relubed it when it started to catch. I'd suspect that either the sear spring has gone soft for some reason, or that the sear and tumbler somehow are out of whack. I'm think I'll just spend the money to get a new sear and tumbler, and compare them. Easiest way to see if things are out of spec.

-Jenrick
 
A photo illustrating the inner working of the lock would be very helpful at this point.
 
OK, no fly. Before spending money on parts, why not test it and see what is going on? There are no guarantees that even the new parts are correct.

I wonder if the tumbler's geometry is correct. I had a replica Brown Bess lock do the same thing. I added a bead of weld right behind the full cock notch of the tumbler and this allowed the sear to clear the half cock better. Dunno if that's the problem with yours though.

If you can't figure it out, you may want to take it to a gunsmith.
 
I'll snap some pictures tomorrow after work, and actually have some time to work on it.

-Jenrick
 
assembly the look w/o the main spring. that way you can check the moving parts to see what causing it to drop to half cock. Something is worn some of the locks are soft. .there is a post on the N-SSA sight ask there someone will point of how to adjust half cock. think. I have a hard copy of it. to long to post here.
 
ShanghaiMcCoy - that happened with my brother's imported squirrel rifle. The maker removed too much wood from the inside so when you tighten down the lock screw (near the hammer), it compressed the wood, causing the lock not to function. I'm going to have to make a spacer that can be slipped in to keep the stock from being over tightened.
 
"Both the rear lock bolt screw and the forward bridel screw may, stick out from being flush with the lock plate and bind against the inside of the hammer. Either of these will slow the speed of the hammer fall due to friction or binding.

Because both of these screws are hiden by the hammer, they are often over looked as a potential problem.


Dismantle the lock and check that the sear screw and the bridle screw had not been swapped. Putting them into their correct configuration should solve the problem instantly and permanently.

Check to see if the trigger is in the right place, it might not be pushing the sear far enough out of the way, check too to see if it is worn on the top. Make sure the sear is moving freely and the spring is in the correct place. If everything is assembled correctly then the whole thing is simple enough it usually works which goes back to if you are pulling the trigger back far enough or just tapping it and not holding it back. The amount of travel to release from full cock is not as much as it needs to clear half cock, you have to find why it isn't going the distance be it something you are doing, a mechanical problem, something binding such as a bit of wood in the way (look for recent scrapes in the lock inlet, nothing should be rubbing) or a screw too tight or too loose (the tang screw could be too long or not tight enough and has the trigger too far away to engage correctly). Hard to tell you without having the musket."
 
Far as I can tell the stock looks good, and I made sure to back the screws out to verify they weren't binding on anything. Still no luck. I'll check the trigger engagement, I hadn't considered that. I took the lock into work to work on it there, and totally forgot it in my locker, pictures coming tomorrow I promise.

-Jenrick
 
All the trigger does is push the sear arm up, which causes the sear to rotate down and disengage from the tumbler. Freed from the sear and under pressure from the mainspring, the tumbler rotates forward, causing the hammer to fall. I don't think the trigger can be responsible.

How about some pictures?
 
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The lower part of the sear full cock notch and before the half cock notch may need welding up. Unless I see it moving, I can't tell for certain.

Think of it as a circle. Anything outside the circle gets caught by the sear. The sear may need a little help to stay out of the way of the half cock notch. Hence the small bead of weld.
 
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Please remove sear and take a clear overhead and side shot of it.
Please take pictures on white flat background
Please take picture of hook end of main spring and tumbler
Hook looks rough in picture...but hard to tell with background
 
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BTW, when it falls on half cock, is your finger still applying pressure on the trigger?
 
If pressure is still on the trigger, then the sear tail is pushed up, which compresses the sear spring and in that state, the sear spring cannot push the sear back down to engage the half-cock notch.

With the current problem on full cock, I suspect it is not reassembled correctly. The sear spring has a lip that protrudes out from its right side (if you hold the lock up and look at it as if it were still mounted in the stock). If that lip is not in the cut-out of the lock plate, then there's no bearing surface for the spring to hold against and it will not push the sear down such that the sear will engage the full cock notch.

If the lock is still out of the stock, you can test this by pushing up on the sear's tail. If there is spring tension, you will feel it. If there is no spring tension, you can see the spring in its entirety moving up and down from the pressure you're placing on the sear's tail.
 
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