Asking for a Friend (stuck suppressor on rifle)

[horsemen61]

Good Morning Everyone!

Ok here is the deal I have a dear friend who enjoyed my tikka t1x MTR and TBAC takedown 22 can so much he went and bought an identical setup all was going well but he has mentioned in passing that the can is stuck on his rifle he said he can’t get the back end of it off the rifle the rest will unscrew but that first baffle? Chamber part that screws to the barrel he can’t get off any suggestions???? I would love to be able to help my friend


Thank you all

 

[edwardware]

Kroil (or ATF & acetone), heat, and a good wrench (or non-maring strap wrench).

I've never seen a heat and Kroil soak fail if the threads weren't already badly galled.

 

[Odd Job]

Strap wrench works well, I had to disassemble 11 segmented cans at our range that were really hard to undo. Used two of these:



You might get away with one, as yours is stuck on a rifle.

 

[horsemen61]

Thanks guys

 

[jmorris]

I have made wrenches out of double split set collars before, if the strap wrenches don't have enough grip.

 

[BreechFace]

When you get it off. Get some “nickel based antisieze” for your threads. It also works well on putting a light coat on clean baffles to make for easier cleaning. The nickel has a high temp rating. It doesn’t take much at all, not necessary to overdo it.

Others above have great suggestions on removal.

 

[entropy]

Kroil (or ATF & acetone), heat, and a good wrench (or non-maring strap wrench).

I've never seen a heat and Kroil soak fail if the threads weren't already badly galled.

It works sometimes even if they are.

When you get it off. Get some “nickel based antisieze” for your threads. It also works well on putting a light coat on clean baffles to make for easier cleaning. The nickel has a high temp rating. It doesn’t take much at all, not necessary to overdo it.

Others above have great suggestions on removal.

Wear gloves when you do this, and be careful to not get it on anything else.

 

[GaryNC]

When you get it off. Get some “nickel based antisieze” for your threads. It also works well on putting a light coat on clean baffles to make for easier cleaning. The nickel has a high temp rating. It doesn’t take much at all, not necessary to overdo it.

Others above have great suggestions on removal.

I always end up with a BIG mess when I use "nickel" or "copper" based antiseize so I use a "food grade" antiseize (rated 2,300 degrees F) and if I end up with a mess, it cleans up much easier and faster.

I learned about the linked antiseize in another NFA forum and like it for the past two years.

As always, your experience with it may vary.

 

[entropy]

It's the other end of the rating that concerns me. It hasn't got to -10F here this year, but it almost always does in a WI winter.

 

[BreechFace]

I always end up with a BIG mess when I use "nickel" or "copper" based antiseize so I use a "food grade" antiseize (rated 2,300 degrees F) and if I end up with a mess, it cleans up much easier and faster.

I learned about the linked antiseize in another NFA forum and like it for the past two years.

As always, your experience with it may vary.

I'd be interested to try that. Thank you for the link.

It only takes a fine layer of antisieze to prevent carbon and lead fouling getting stuck to baffles or to the threads on the muzzle. It's not perfect, but they do clean up easier.

 

[BreechFace]

It's the other end of the rating that concerns me. It hasn't got to -10F here this year, but it almost always does in a WI winter.

On occasion we get down to -10, but that would be a couple of days every few years. And that would be when it's coldest out such as 4-5 in the morning. So the food grade would probably be ok for me, but the nickel AS works for me.

But as you probably know nickel antiseize is good down to -65*F, so good fit for your environment.

 

[Varminterror]

Which Suppressor?

The specific design matters. For example, the SilencerCo Omega's have proprietary spanner wrench engagements on the back of their mount caps, but if that's not enough, there are wrench flats on the interior structure of the primary cone.

 

[Soonerpesek]

Which Suppressor?

See first sentence on post #1………

 

[HollowDawg]

Ditto on Kroil. Let it soak overnight. Great for getting O2 sensors off of cars too!

 

[Captains1911]

Kroil, it’s magic.

 

[rdnktrkr]

I'm a firm believer in the ATF/Acetone, let it soak and then HRS later or even the next day using a heat gun or propane torch heat up the suppressor at the threads and it should release.

 

[Speedo66]

Caution, don’t get the anti-seize on clothing, generally does not come off.