Removing stuck muzzle device - Ruger Gunsite Scout Rifle

[Captains1911]

I have an old YHM suppressor mount that I want to remove from this rifle. It wasn’t installed with any thread locker or adhesive, just torque, and it only has 100 rounds or so through it since it was installed. However, I can’t get it to budge just by clamping the barrel. Any advice on how I can get this clunky thing off?

 

[Zahn]

Heat? A heat gun or perhaps a hair dryer, directing the heat on the mount.

 

[bfoosh006]

Maybe some Kroil , and let it sit ?

https://www.kroil.com/product/kroil-original-penetrant/

 

[Hugger-4641]

I have an old YHM suppressor mount that I want to remove from this rifle. It wasn’t installed with any thread locker or adhesive, just torque, and it only has 100 rounds or so through it since it was installed. However, I can’t get it to budge just by clamping the barrel. Any advice on how I can get this clunky thing off?

Take a brass hammer and tap on the end of the barrel mouth carefully with light steady taps for about a minute.. The vibration will often loosen the rust/threads enough to break it loose.
If that doesn't work, wrap the suppressor mount with a leather strap or something that will insulate it and hold in heat Fire several rounds in quick succession to get the barrel just warm enough that you can't leave you hand on it for long. Then try again to remove it.

 

[Barnfixer]

Combine Zahn’s and bfoosh006 posts. Heat & penetrating oil.

 

[Barnfixer]

Combine Zahn’s and bfoosh006 posts. Heat & penetrating oil.

Also works on choke tubes.

 

[Steel Horse Rider]

In heating it you want to warm the outer piece so it will expand slightly but not warm the barrel. If the barrel and the outer piece are warmed the same amount at the same time they are both likely to expand the same amount and you will gain nothing.

 

[Captains1911]

Thanks for the replies thus far. Should clamping the barrel be sufficient, or should would it be better to remove the action from the stock and clamp the receiver?

 

[LoonWulf]

Thanks for the replies thus far. Should clamping the barrel be sufficient, or should would it be better to remove the action from the stock and clamp the receiver?

Ive had good luck just clamping the barrel right behind the muzzle device using a leather guard between the jaws and barrel. I usually use penetrating oil and heat the device thread area with a map torch to transfer as little heat to the barrel as possible.

But sometimes, especially if its been on there a while, it wont work. Ive had to resort to my barrel/action vice a few time's

 

[The Glockodile]

If using heat, apply it quickly and intensely to the muzzle device, as to minimize heat transfer to the barrel...

The point being, you want the muzzle device to expand without significant heat migrating to the barrel, which would make it do the exact same thing - which is expand!

Think of it as ”annealing.”

 

[Pat Riot]

To hold the barrel I use a Magpul BEV Block.
Set the upper over it and push the star piece into the chamber then pin the receiver to the BEV block. It’s steel so you can put torque on the barrel without possibly damaging your receiver or other components. (I am probably using the wrong names for some of the parts in my explanation)
I have used mine several times and it truly handles torque.

BEV™ Block – AR15/M4

Compact vise block tool for the AR15 / M4

magpul.com

 

[Show Me]

Sometimes you must resort to destructive disassembly. Split it across the threads or weld a nut to it ,clamp the barrel in a press or in a lathe and hit it with an impact. Mill or grind on one side to thin it over the threads. There are other ways to save expensive machine parts including a gun barrel

 

[illinoisburt]

Twisting torqued threaded items is usually not the best idea. Shock and impact work substantially better. Place the barrel in a padded vise (leather belt wrapped around barrel held in the jaws is okay), use a good fitting wrench on the muzzle device and hit the wrench with a hammer to turn it. Might slip a couple times - just reset and do it again. It will come loose.

 

[chicharrones]

I remember trying to get the original flash hider off my GSR when I got the gun new. I clamped the barrel in a leather padded vise, put some torque on the flash hider with a 12" long wrench, and the entire barrel slipped and spun with the flash hider.

Then I clamped the slab sided receiver in the same padded vise (stock removed), added heat to the flash hider with a propane fueled torch and gave it another go. The flash hider did loosen and unthread off the barrel. I feared that I would loosen the barrel from the receiver, but I didn't. So, I'd guess the flash hider was installed with less torque than the barrel.

 

[Captains1911]

To hold the barrel I use a Magpul BEV Block.
Set the upper over it and push the star piece into the chamber then pin the receiver to the BEV block. It’s steel so you can put torque on the barrel without possibly damaging your receiver or other components. (I am probably using the wrong names for some of the parts in my explanation)
I have used mine several times and it truly handles torque.
View attachment 1187013

BEV™ Block – AR15/M4

Compact vise block tool for the AR15 / M4

magpul.com

I use this when working on ARs, however, this is a bolt action rifle.

 

[Captains1911]

I was using plastic barrel vice jaws, with the barrel wrapped in thick rubber gasket maker material. I will try leather and no vice jaws. Is there any benefit to clamping it with the barrel vertical vs horizontal?

 

[chicharrones]

I was using plastic barrel vice jaws, with the barrel wrapped in thick rubber gasket maker material. I will try leather and no vice jaws. Is there any benefit to clamping it with the barrel vertical vs horizontal?

I clamped the barrel and receiver parallel to the jaws. I'd say that would be horizontal. The reason was to use as much clamping area as possible.

 

[Barnfixer]

If you use the heat and oil method don’t be afraid to walk away from it and let the oil seep in. A couple taps on the end might help also, wood block & hammer. I’ve have things I’ve heated and oil down not budge but went back to something I could break loose.

 

[BreechFace]

Clamping it in the vice with some leather and rosin would be my choice of securement.

Like others have mentioned I would try and work some Kroil in there and heat the muzzle device, stay away from heating the barrel to try and just expand the muzzle device.

Once it’s heated up a bit get a combination wrench that fits on the muzzle device flats and while maintaining pressure on the combination wrench, rap on the end of the wrench with a dead blow.

Sharp raps on something like this with pressure applied creates a quick sharp jolt and sometimes works threads loose.

 

[Hugger-4641]

If you are quick enough to apply torque while applying heat to the mount, it may work. But, there's this thing a lot of folks don't understand called "Free Expansion and Contraction". When and however you choose to apply heat, insulate the mount so that it will retain heat and the barrel must cool from the inside. This will cause the barrel to contract in its "free" direction and pull away from the outer threads of the mount. IF you can do this while applying some vibration, even better

 

[doubleh]

The type of device used to apply heat makes a huge difference. It needs to quick as possible to keep heat from transferring to the other part. The very best method is a O/A torch with multiple tips so you can choose the right size for the object to be removed. An old tried and true method of determining when the heated part is hot enough is to spit on it. If the spit sizzles it's ready and don't mess around as it's heat is transferring to the other part. The more quickly you work the better chance of success. I realise not everyone has an A/O torch rig sitting around. If I didn't I would use a Bernz torch and Mapp gas. There is quite a bit less heat available with it than with A/O so depending on just what you are doing it may or may not get the job done but should work for a muzzle devise. Apply your heat by direction to avoid getting as much as possible on the piece to be removed and only on the piece to be removed. I have never had any luck with a heat gun. Too slow. Those are good for removing plastic and doing heat shrink tubing. Over the years I have use everything in size from a triple A welding tip to two #12 rosebuds to remove stuck things. You can almost see the dollar required for gas to operate them flying out of the rosebuds. I knew one welder that wouldn't carry one in his truck because if he didn't have it he didn't have to use it. When using a rosebud you are losing money every second it's lit.

Sorry for the thread drift at the last.

 

[Show Me]

The type of device used to apply heat makes a huge difference. It needs to quick as possible to keep heat from transferring to the other part. The very best method is a O/A torch with multiple tips so you can choose the right size for the object to be removed. An old tried and true method of determining when the heated part is hot enough is to spit on it. If the spit sizzles it's ready and don't mess around as it's heat is transferring to the other part. The more quickly you work the better chance of success. I realise not everyone has an A/O torch rig sitting around. If I didn't I would use a Bernz torch and Mapp gas. There is quite a bit less heat available with it than with A/O so depending on just what you are doing it may or may not get the job done but should work for a muzzle devise. Apply your heat by direction to avoid getting as much as possible on the piece to be removed and only on the piece to be removed. I have never had any luck with a heat gun. Too slow. Those are good for removing plastic and doing heat shrink tubing. Over the years I have use everything in size from a triple A welding tip to two #12 rosebuds to remove stuck things. You can almost see the dollar required for gas to operate them flying out of the rosebuds. I knew one welder that wouldn't carry one in his truck because if he didn't have it he didn't have to use it. When using a rosebud you are losing money every second it's lit.

Sorry for the thread drift at the last.

Really, it's not that expensive!

 

[Captains1911]

Regarding the use of Kroil, should I submerge the entire muzzle device, or just saturate the area between the barrel shoulder and muzzle device? It’s $22 for 8oz….

 

[BreechFace]

Just heat up the muzzle device a bit and put a few drops at the shoulder where it meets the barrel. If it takes in the kroil keep adding more until it won’t take any more and let it sit.

Kroil is really good stuff anyone who works on guns, machines or anything with fasteners should have some. I have an 16oz can of it that has lasted a long time. I bought 6 small droppers with metal needles that I fill with different fluids and Kroil is one of them.

 

[Hugger-4641]

An A/O rosebud is definitely overkill for this job. If you need to use A/O, any cutting tip from 00 up would be enough, but preferably a welding tip.