Bcwitt
Member
Dose parkerizing cause issues if press fit parts are disassembled first? Seems like the process would be easier in pieces then in one long piece. Subject is an AK type rifle. The barrel could be pressed out, if desired. Thanks
I was hoping to make a smaller park tank. Perhaps 18" instead of 28" or so. I have the solution, but no other equipment. I'll have to fabricate a tank. I think aluminum would be best. Mabey barrel pressed out & the rest of the population left on barrel? If I have to krocus the barrel & trunion I will.It's best to park with tightly pressed parts like barrels left in place.
If you park separately you'd have to remove the park from the barrel shank and trunion because the park coating will prevent it from being assembled.
I'd remove only the parts that can be easily removed, like the rear sight leaf, sight spring, etc.
I'll have to fabricate a tank. I think aluminum would be best.
How much solution does that setup use? I have 1 gallon. I have a barrel press & the pin is already located. I'd rather not get more compound.Parkerize it with the barrel pressed in. It's not worth the hassle head spacing and pinning again.
I had a stainless tank made 15+ years ago by a local sheet metal shop. It's 36x8x8. I've done a M1 Carbine and one AK. Both came out pretty good.
The phosphoric acid in the Parkerizing solution will eat the aluminum. The tank won't fail the first, second, or 20th timme you use it for that, but you don't want the disolved aluminum in the mix with the Park getting deposited on your gun. No one knows what effect that will have on the finish and no need to risk it. The acid does not react in any significant way with the stainless steel.I hate to ask, but why stainless over aluminum?
If memory serves me I think I used 2-3 gallons of distilled water. It's been few years. I heated it up in my garage with my camp stove.How much solution does that setup use? I have 1 gallon. I have a barrel press & the pin is already located. I'd rather not get more compound.