Assembling a long-range rifle...on the cheap

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luzyfuerza

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A couple of years ago, I bought a piece of property that has room for a 440 yard range on my land, and which has another 800+ yards of public ground beyond, all with a huge natural backstop. I told myself that with that kind of a range, I had a perfect opportunity to learn about long-range shooting.

So, I took a one-day class that covered the basics of rifles, glass, ballistics, wind estimation, and shooting technique. It was clear that the bolt action hunting rifles I already owned wouldn't do; they are light, and are accurate enough for hunting, but weren't adequate for shooting up to 1250 yards. My scopes were durable, but didn't have clear glass. I needed new hardware, good enough to hold 0.5 to 1.0 MOA or so accuracy. All day long. The rig will be shot from the bench or prone, from a bi-pod, so heavy is good.

Also, I realized that I needed to upgrade my reloading skills. For decades, I've been a "meatball reloader". I have always reloaded for function, and to reduce cost. Accuracy was way down the list of priorities. I've loaded and shot perhaps 150k rounds of handgun ammo on my 650. My ARs are volume shooters, very seldom being shot at ranges beyond 100 yards. When I've loaded for bolt guns, I never really did what's necessary to produce fine, accurate cartridges. Close enough was good enough.

So, I was really starting from close to ground zero.

Oh, and I'm cheap. Really cheap. So I looked for hardware and tools that had a chance of meeting the 0.5 to 1.0 MOA goal, but which were VERY cost effective.

So this thread is about assembling a rifle that's as inexpensive as possible, but which still should have good enough quality to help me gain long distance skills. It describes the hardware I chose, and the very preliminary results I have so far.

Here's the hardware:

Rifle: Savage 12FV heavy barrel, with Accutrigger, on sale at Cabela's with the $100 rebate.
Cartridge: 6.5 Creedmore
Glass: SWFA 10X Super Sniper, with parallax adjustment on the tube
Mount: DMZ Products 30mm one-piece base, 20 MOA
Stock: Choate Ultimate Sniper

20180214_163934.jpg

I also bought new reloading equipment. Hornady case and OAL length comparators, Hornady match neck bushing dies, a straight OAL guage, and 250 Starline cases. To start, I also bought some Privi 120 and 140 grain projectiles, some Hornady ELD 140 grain projectiles, and some IMR 4451 (since H3450 seems to be complete unobtainium). I had Varget on hand.

And I started a log book for this rifle, something I'd never done before for any firearm.
 
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I cleaned the rifle, put the rifle, scope, and stock together, and started measuring everything I could.

I measured the shoulder-datum to leade distance on the rifle for all three varieties of bullets I had bought. I measured, weighed, and sorted cases. I measured, sorted, and weighed bullets. And recorded the results.

Everything below was shot at 100 yards, calm wind, 50-60F ambient temperature, from the bench. All groups, except as noted, are five-shot groups.


I took ten rounds of Hornady 120 ELD Match ammo to the range to get the set-up on paper. Shots 8, 9, and 10 went into a 1 1/4" group. Promising, but not close to conclusive.

Cleaned the bore. No copper build-up.


As break-in ammo, I used the 120 grain Privi's over Varget, with WLR primers and the brand-new Starline brass. I started at 36 grains, and stepped up to 40 grains in 0.5 grain increments. Seating depth was set to keep the ogive 0.020" off the leade.

Groups were unimpressive. They generally varied from 1 1/2" to 2 1/4", but 38.5 grains shot to 1", and 39 grains shot to 1 1/8". That's OK, I told myself. Its a new barrel, shooting cheap bullets, with a bullet weight that isn't optimal for this caliber. And, BTW, you have a lot to learn as a shooter.

At the end of this session, shots 56-60 went into 5/8" using the 120 ELD factory match ammo. I thought: "Maybe there's hope!"

Cleaned the bore. Very little copper build-up. All fouling and copper removed.


The next batch of loads, I decided to try to duplicate the promising 120 grain Privi/Varget results at 38.5 and 39 grains. I also loaded up some Privi 140 grain bullets over 37 to 41 grains of IMR 4451, in one-grain steps. Finally, I loaded up some 140 grain Hornady ELD bullets over 40 grains of IMR 4451.

The 120 grain Privi bullets over Varget were disappointing. Three five-shot groups averaged about 2" this time. I suppose they could have been fouling shots. Who knows?

The 140 grain Privi bullets over IMR 4451 were worse...

37 grain: 1 3/4"
38 grain: 2"
39 grain: 3"
40 grain: 2 3/8".

To say that I was bummed at this point would be a huge understatement.

Then, the 140 grain Privi's over 41 grains of 4451 produced a 1 1/8" group. (note to self: try shooting these bullets FAST, and see what happens!)

As a preliminary test of the difference between the Privi bullets and the ELDs, the 140 grain ELDs over 40 grains of 4451 produced a 1 1/4" group (versus 2 3/8 for the Privi's with the same powder charge).

As a preliminary test of my first loads with 140 grain ELD bullets (using new Starline brass and IMR 4451) against factory match ammo, the gun and I shot five rounds of 140 grain ELD Hornady factory Match into a 1/2" group. Yes Virginia, there might be hope for this rig! But yes, you still do suck as a shooter.

20180214_163958.jpg

So, after 110 rounds through the rifle, here's what I think I know:

1) The Privi bullets are not as accurate as the ELDs.
2) My first loads with ELDs and new brass are not as accurate as factory match (more work to do here).
3) The rig seems capable of shooting to 0.5 MOA.
4) I have a lot to learn about long-distance shooting.
 
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Are there any other "facts" in these results that you think that I could rely on?

What next steps do you suggest?

When the time comes to upgrade the hardware, what do you think that I should change first? Why?
 
All the equipment seems fine.

Larger scopes help me shoot smaller.

And last but most definitely not least, it really does take practice. A lot of practice.

Nice rifle, keep up the good work! You'll get there. (Me, too. Someday. I hope.:))
 
1) The Privi bullets are not as accurate as the ELDs.
Are you weighing these bullets?

I buy 223 & 308's in bulk (5000ea at a time) and weigh each one on an electronic scale, divide into groups +/- .3 grain ... I usually end up with 4-5 groups; the ones that fall at either extreme I use as fouling shots ...
 
So how many shots are hiding underneath that other target?

Find a way to fix your front bag to that rest box - as simple as duct tape around front to back on each side, giving you room to make a ditch for the forend. Ditch the rear monopod and use a rear bag. Better still, ditch that box and bag in front too and run a machine rest.

A new bow and new arrows don’t make a new Indian. More range time practice and more training are the only way.

Does the Choate SS have a bedding block? Or did you bed the action?

Ditch the prvi bullets, make the ELD’s your new practice bullet. Make the 140 Berger Hybrid your A Game bullet.

What does the rifle do in someone else’s hands? Of what are you capable with other rifles? Typically buying a new rifle isn’t the path to shooting your first string of sub-half moa groups.
 
I'd suggest getting either an ATLAS bipod, or a DECENT front rest. Either way....ditch that wooden mess you have there. I can shoot very good groups with an ATLAS, off a bench. And NO just because HARRIS sells a bipod....it is NOT an ATLAS. No comparison.

Get a good rear bag as well.

Is the choate stock PROPERLY bedded? What's the torque on the action screws?
 
As long as it is solid and heavy, and the bag can’t shift, the wood box SHOULD give better support than a bipod. A $300 Atlas under a $300 rifle likely isn’t a high priority.
 
The rock JR is a decent cheap front rest. Not very adjustable but they are like $30. Use your front bag as a rear bag. I would suggest picking the best load you have so far and work on repeatidly shooting groups until you can reliably shoot similar group sizes at 100 yards. Then you can get back to tweaking the load and start pushing the distance out.
 
Hello from Utah. I enjoy shooting at the WSA range as well.

If you are trying to stay on a budget, I would suggest a lightly used Harris bipod. Feel free to send me a PM and I can let you borrow one of mine to try as I am up at the WSA range all the time.

Next you will need a rear squeeze bag, or similar. I made one out of a couple pieces of heavy cloth and filled with some cotton and poly beads. Some use airsoft or some kind of rice or corn.

There is no substitute for a good front rest but it is more practical to learn to shoot off a bipod.
 
Get some Winchester brass. Form-fire, trim, deburr, chamfer, and true the primer pockets. Lastly, sort them by weight.

Get some match grade projectiles, preferably heavy for that chambering (140ish grain). Sort the projectiles by weight.

Get some Match grade primers.

Get a match grade set of dies. I prefer resize the neck only. Lee is good and affordable.

Start at 10% under maximum powder charge and go up in powder charge by .5 of a grain per trial load. Varget is your friend!

Some rifles perform best with the projectile jammed into the lands. Others are best having a slight jump, and a crimp.

Test various projectile seating depths.

That rifle, as it came from the factory, should be grouping under 1MOA...as it came from the factory.

Practice and enjoy. Sand bags are your friend. I have the same rifle and chambering, and get consistent 0.5 to 0.75 MOA with factory ammo.

Geno
 
I would consider allowing another shooter shot your reloads in your rifle see if he or she can get better shots or duplicate what you shot. Either way you will get an answer, either it is you or the rifle not liking those bullets.
 
I’m pretty literal when it comes to words - so I differentiate “teaching” and “learning.” I firmly believe a person cannot teach themselves, as teaching requires a base of knowledge or skill in the subject matter. So “self-taught” is not a real thing, to me. A person can learn on their own, but they can’t really teach themselves, and learning without a teacher isn’t typically fast, nor without extreme faults.

Equally, I do not live by the mantra “practice makes perfect.” Rather, I live by both of the 5 P’s - Proper Practice Prevents Poor Performance, and Poor Practice Promotes Poor Performance. You’re either practicing to get better, or practicing to get worse. The best way to learn is to be taught, so you can really understand proper methods of practice. Practicing bad habits is worse than not practicing.

So for newbies, I am ardent about seeking regular and consistent TRAINING, not just going to the range to “self-teach” at practice.
 
That positively is a pile of "P"s that plum puckered my puss. Practically pooped out,I press to postulate that proper practice will prevent poor performance. Further, perfect practice will propel any person to a primary podium, provided they purposefully plied their patience while prone.

Sorry, I couldn't help myself.:D

I need to practice my practicing. Every time I go out I forget something!


ETA: This would had been funnier in front of @Varminterror's post, whom I am not trying to slight in the least. I'm just slower than he is.
And I agree. I am not self taught. I am able to reach so high from standing on the shoulders of giants like @Varminterror, @bds, @Walkalong and Bryan Litz.

I wish I had a mentor, and yet, I have many.
 
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A guy that I really respect, told me more than a few decades ago, that when you can shoot consistently, to the best of your ammo and gear, only then do you HAVE to upgrade if you want to get better ... I.E. If you are shooting ammo that is 3 MOA ammo at 100 ... When you can hit that hallmark consistently then you need to upgrade.

Until then, practice.
 
Folks, thanks very much for your comments.

Summarizing:

1) There is no way that the shooter can be consistent from an unstable rest. Stable, heavy sandbags or a machine rest will help a lot.

2) I've got to put rounds down-range. A lot of rounds. Using a shooting instructor will drive shooter improvement faster than just shooting.

3) Until my technique is consistent, then differences in loads, techniques, bullets, etc. won't be clear. I could end up tweaking all kinds of things, but until I am consistent in my shooting technique, I won't be able to identify what works and what doesn't.

4) Pick a load, make rounds using that load that are as consistent and repeatable as possible, and then practice with that load until the results (both accuracy and velocity) are consistent. Only then can I begin to tweak the ammo and expect to reliably see ammo-related variations.


I need to load and shoot more to get to where I want to be? That's great!

Now, off to the reloading bench, and then to the range. Repeat, over and over again.
 
Responding to a few of your questions:

The Choate stock is free-floated and has a V-shaped aluminum bedding block (https://www.eabco.net/Choate-Ultimate-Sniper-Savage-Stock-_p_14153.html) This page has a photo of the V-blocks. I didn't record the torque of the two bolts that connect the action to the stock, but I have read that these torque values can affect accuracy.


These are the "groups" that I shot with the 140 grain Privi bullets and IMR 4451, and some 120 grain Privi bullets using Varget. They are consistent...consistently bad.

20180222_170416.jpg

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And these are the groups I shot with the 140 grain ELDs over 40 grains of IMR 4451, and with the factory 140 grain ELD Hornady match ammo.

20180222_170337.jpg


Lots more work, and practice needed here.
 

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I've got another 25 Privi bullets and 25 ELDs loaded up using the same charge of 4451 in the same new Starline cases. That will give me five, 5-shot groups with each bullet to examine.

I've also upgraded my rests. Good solid sandbags up front, with a heavy squeeze bag to support the butt.

My local range has installed a real, honest-to-goodness, bolted-to-the-concrete, industrial-strength, cable-trigger-release, rifle machine rest. I think that I'll ask the service that owns this rest to shoot a group with my rifle and the Hornady match ammo to get an idea of the accuracy the gun/stock/scope/factory ammo combination is capable of. This should give me a much clearer idea of the variability the shooter is introducing to the system.

I'll post the results...should be interesting!
 
Getting there! I just had a fight with rest and technique today lol. Your rifle looks like it wants to shoot tho, looking forward to how this turns out.
 
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