Bad luck with grips!

[WebHobbit]

I've bought two new guns in the last couple of weeks & I've had some HORRIBLE luck buying grips for them!

1) bought a beautiful Acusport Ruger Bisley .44 Magnum. I thought a set of Hogue Ebony wood groups would like nice on the stainless gun. So I ordered some.

50.00 bucks straight down the drain.

Nobody (including the Hogue web-site) bothered to tell me that the grips would have to be "fitted".

So I TRIED following the included instructions. Ofcourse I managed to take a bit too much wood off of one side's pin hole and now that side will NOT TIGHTEN up properly. :banghead: So I ruined these beautiful grips.

So I put the originals back on....all the while my wife is snickering behind me about how she likes the factory stocks way better anyway!

2) Bought a new Ruger SP101. Though the factory grips FEEL good in the hand they don't work for me when shooting as they leave OPEN the spot just behind the trigger gaurd. I HAVE to have that part covered.

So I ordered a set of Uncle Mike (Butler Creek) rubber Boot Grips. They came in today and they are 100% WORTHLESS as for some STRANGE reason they do NOT follow CRaig Speigel's design and they leave the back of the trigger gaurd OPEN just like the factory grips!

WHY??????????

I have used rubber Boot Grips on several J-Frames a K-Frame and two L-Frames and they ALL cover the spot directly behind the trigger gaurd.

Ah well that makes about 70 bucks THROWN away on grips I can't use all together.

Tomorrow I'll go and buy a set of Hogue rubber grips for the SP101. I KNOW they cover the back of the trigger gaurd although they are a tad bigger than ideal for CCW.

 

[Sisco]

Ever see a pair of Eagle Secret Service grips? I have a pair on my SP and really like them.
http://www.eaglegrips.com/secretservice.htm

THR member Rangie has a pair of smooth ones listed in the Buy Sell & Trade forum.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=26769

 

[WebHobbit]

Doesn't look bad but I'm a bit afraid to spend that much on grips again this soon after all that!

 

[Sisco]

It's only money.
Can't take it with you.
Money may not buy love but it can get you material things.
He who dies with the most toys is still dead.
Am I gettin' through yet?

 

[Standing Wolf]

So I TRIED following the included instructions. Ofcourse I managed to take a bit too much wood off of one side's pin hole and now that side will NOT TIGHTEN up properly.

Plastic Wood.

 

[RCL]

WebHobbit, you need to check out this link. Besides many custom grips, he offers a service where he will refinish Ruger grips, and thin them if you request. His work is outstanding and reasonably priced, I have both a refinished pair and a new pair that he did, and I will be getting more done in the future. He started out small offering a sevice to the guys who hang out at www.sixgunner.com, and it got big, to the point that he was written up by John Taffin in American Handgunner. There are others here that can vouch for him also. Good stuff!


http://home.att.net/~s.kolar/

 

[Mikul]

This is why I make my own grips. I get exactly what I want and the expense is minimal. My first grips cost exactly $4. My next set has already cost me $25 because I went with Australian Lacewood for the material. It should be beautiful.

My setup is a coping saw and a set of my wife's grandfather's chisels. My skill set is minimal too, but I take me time. It takes a while to make them, but for the $50 savings and the knowledge that I'll get what I want, it's worth it.

 

[Old Fuff]

WebHobbit:

Don’t give up on the Ruger grips. Plastic Wood won’t work very well, but epoxy glue will. Coat the frame area around the pin with a good paste wax, and use plenty of it! If the pin in question is a roll-pin be sure to fill the inside with wax. Then mix up some Epoxy glue or better yet, fiberglass-bedding compound. Fill the hole in the grip (or grips, but do one side at a time) and then carefully position the grip on the frame. Let it lay until the Epoxy has set

If the revolver is stainless steel (or at least the grip-frame is) you can round and work the metal to match up with the wood. If it’s blued carbon steel you can still do the same and then have it reblued.