Basic gear for high country cold weather elk hunting.

Perhaps there is interest in an update to my post https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ather-elk-hunting.661698/page-3#post-10941368.

The Bolderton clothing worked great - the outer shell is very tough. In fact it was so warm I didn't have to use all the layers and had to unzip my coat as temperatures actually reached the mid to upper 40's by mid-afternoon! Perhaps it was also due to the fact that we were VERY active both on horses and on foot during the day. Exception: riding up in the morning slowly and quietly was COLD especially in the toes. Sitting on a slow walking horse I found is almost as cold as standing still.

Boots were Cabela's/Meindl Air active - also very warm and comfortable. But I did use heat pads top and bottom for toes because as I said mornings were cold - in the single digits and low teens.
 
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Awesome post I can't wait till I have time to read the entire thing. I did notice wool socks, I threw away all of my cotton socks years ago and where nothing but wool socks year round. They are comfortable, breathable and I haven't had athlete's foot since I made the switch.
 
Spare lens wipes (especially if you wear prescription glasses) and a small makeup lens brush can save your hunt. Also I wear absolutely no cotton clothing what so ever. Strictly 100% synthetic clothing including underwear. My friends who live and some who guide in AK have a saying: "Cotton Kills" Lastly I carry no less than THREE compasses on me and THREE means to start a fire. If you can still find them USGI Trioxaine fuel bars are as good a fire starter as money can buy. I also carry a sturdy whistle and signal mirror 1/2 doz sylum glow sticks and small pad of paper and pencil in my EM/overnight survival kit.
 
I think this year we are going to need to add a fire extinguisher to the basic load. My favorite hunting area, and where I shot my nice 5x6, is currently burning-up in the Williams Fork Fire.
 
Since I'm a 70 year old Oregonian all my life I naturally nearly always had at least 2 pairs of Danners in the back room, In addition I had wet and cold feet most of the time until Danner came up with the Pronghorns, I thought I was now in heaven - Along about 7 or 8 years ago a longtime hunting buddy told me he had just bought a new pair of LOWA boots and absolutely loved them, I scoffed at turning my back on my beloved Danners (even though Danner had long ago sold out then sold out again) but to keep my buddy quiet I went to Bakers Boots in Eugene OR and asked to be shown some "Lowa boots" which they politely and very very knowledgeably did - At the first few steps I looked at the guy incredulously and said "too stiff" to which he replied to walk around a bit, I did and have been wearing Lowa boots since for early & late season hunting and now Renegades for work and casual, I think I'm on my 7 pair of Renegades now, I've not spent a moment cold, blistered or hurting since (feet anyways) Advice: no matter what boot you buy put an aftermarket insole in them, not even the most expensive boot in existence makes a factory insole that comes close to "superfeet" or any other reputable brand (My personal favorite for 4 years now is "Heel that Pain", tried them due to plantar fasciitis and now wear them in any shoe or boot I have on because I like them so well
 
I've been hunting and fishing in Maine, NH, and VT since childhood. Not exactly the rocky mountains, but plenty cold and wet enough. I'm also a homeless person and live the way people camp full-time and have for years. Here are my thoughts.

- Thermal underwear is unnecessary. Underwear is the thinnest layer of clothing you wear, and the closest to your body. It is the least likely to get wet and the fastest to dry if it does (such as if you layer improperly and get a little sweaty while chopping wood.) I wear the same Hanes polycotton underwear and tshirts from Walmart year round no matter what I'm doing and have never had any issues even when miles from civilization in a noreaster. I do wear wool socks, but only as a boot liner over normal polycotton socks. The job of underwear is scent control, you change it every day so that you don't stink up your heavy, expensive clothing. If the underwear itself is heavy and expensive it defeats the purpose.

- The only shell I need is a raincoat. The job of a shell is to repel moisture and wind, a raincoat does both exceptionally. My favorite raincoat is a buckskin colored Helly Hansen raincoat that is knee-length and hooded and cost me $79 at Sam's in Brattleboro and, in conjunction with as many cheap polyester and wool surplus insulation layers as I feel necessary underneath, is all I need to brave the elements whether a freezing November rain or a howling -5F January night. I only use it in the cold months, from April-October I just use the rain poncho I keep in my pack. I threw all my expensive winter parkas in the donation bin.

- A baseball cap is a must because it keeps rain off my glasses, fits under a hood, and I keep a flashlight permanently affixed to it. It should be polyester so it dries quickly. I can wear a beanie over it for extra warmth but with my hair it's rarely necessary.

- Boots, there is absolutely nothing I cannot do in uninsulated Bean boots. I wear the same pair year round. They're the perfect size to fit acceptably over ordinary socks, but large enough to permit an additional wool layer in winter. My feet are never cold when I'm using them no matter the weather. When I'm stationary, such as ambush hunting, I just wrap my feet in a section of blanket. I do not see any need for specialized winter boots, and I don't see how you can keep the insulation clean unless the liner is removable, which it often isn't. Winter boots also frequently fail to function well with snow shoes. Snow shoes are indispensable up here. I also often wear "water socks" if it's above 30 degrees. These are very comfortable, inexpensive, moccasin-like footwear that allow me to move silently and increase the rate of run-ins I have with animals while moving. They weigh nothing and I keep a pair in my pack at all times. Combined with a walking stick to serve as a third leg to distribute weight to, I can get within Glock distance of deer and black bear very easily.

- I EDC a large survival fixed blade every day. My current favorite is the "Drop Forged Survivalist" from Cold Steel. It's a homegenous chunk of 52100 steel with no structural weak spots, and I can baton it through anything and fell trees 8" in diameter with it if I have to. That combined with a small folding knife for whittling and dressing game are the only blades I carry. I don't bring a tomahawk or an axe unless I'm really going to need it.

- My sharpening device is my own invention. It's a 4"X1" soft Arkansas stone affixed to a 1"X1" aluminum rectangular tube, with a leather chromium oxide loaded strop affixed to the other side. The tube is just long enough to allow for the use of plastic angle guides. The tube provides clearance for your fingers so that you can use the entire length of the stone, unlike if you were just holding the stone directly. This also promotes even wear on the stone so it won't take on dished character. Additional angle guides can be stored inside the tube. Beyond this I also carry a 6" triangular file which only weighs 2.8 ounces IIRC for repairing serious damage, it's narrow enough to bite carbon and most tool steels using only one hand without having to clamp the blade to a bench. A chainsaw file works too but is too easy to screw up with and doesn't do points well. The progression of file>soft Arkansas>Chromeox strop can produce edges that are about 90% as effective as anything I have ever achieved even with the finest Japanese water stones or SiC paper. Using only the file and my sharpening device I can take virtually any edged tool in any state of disrepair and bring it up to my standards in less than an hour.

- Fire starting is something I've never gotten fancy about. I practiced the bow drill method enough to satisfy myself that it is very easy. Beyond that I just carry bic lighters. They are extremely reliable, cheap, and lightweight, as countless smokers will attest. In wet conditions there is always birch bark around the corner and dry firewood inside a dead standing snag. I have never had any difficulty making a fire in my entire life even when deliberately doing so under the worst possible conditions.

- "Luxury item" is a good description of a camp stove. I use one every day, but only at my truck. I've never brought one camping. I just bring some jerky and trail mix and vitamins and find that sufficient. I use a very thin steel lightweight mug to melt snow in and boil water in. Sometimes I roast wild meat and fish over a fire in small pieces and just dip them in barbecue sauce packets.

- For water I only carry two 8 ounce Poland spring bottles from a gas station a year ago. There is water everywhere up here so there really isn't any need to pack alot of it. The two bottles allow me to distribute the weight better. I also carry a lifestraw, but rarely use it even when hiking all day.

- For taking a dump I put together Ziploc bags with 5 paper towels each soaked in the same baking soda solution that I bathe with daily.

- Everything else in OPs post I agree with. He clearly knows what he's doing.
 
Quite sensible clothing recommendations. Everyone says “cotton kills”, but it does have perks with its affordability and its breathability. Just depends on whether or not you have a way to dry things out reliably. I also agree, heavy winter boots should have a removable liner for the same reason. Cotton and wool are also much more flame retardant than synthetics for what thats worth around a fire or inside a burning bush plane, or welding.
 
I've been hunting and fishing in Maine, NH, and VT since childhood. Not exactly the rocky mountains, but plenty cold and wet enough. I'm also a homeless person and live the way people camp full-time and have for years. Here are my thoughts.

- Thermal underwear is unnecessary. Underwear is the thinnest layer of clothing you wear, and the closest to your body. It is the least likely to get wet and the fastest to dry if it does (such as if you layer improperly and get a little sweaty while chopping wood.) I wear the same Hanes polycotton underwear and tshirts from Walmart year round no matter what I'm doing and have never had any issues even when miles from civilization in a noreaster. I do wear wool socks, but only as a boot liner over normal polycotton socks. The job of underwear is scent control, you change it every day so that you don't stink up your heavy, expensive clothing. If the underwear itself is heavy and expensive it defeats the purpose.

- The only shell I need is a raincoat. The job of a shell is to repel moisture and wind, a raincoat does both exceptionally. My favorite raincoat is a buckskin colored Helly Hansen raincoat that is knee-length and hooded and cost me $79 at Sam's in Brattleboro and, in conjunction with as many cheap polyester and wool surplus insulation layers as I feel necessary underneath, is all I need to brave the elements whether a freezing November rain or a howling -5F January night. I only use it in the cold months, from April-October I just use the rain poncho I keep in my pack. I threw all my expensive winter parkas in the donation bin.

- A baseball cap is a must because it keeps rain off my glasses, fits under a hood, and I keep a flashlight permanently affixed to it. It should be polyester so it dries quickly. I can wear a beanie over it for extra warmth but with my hair it's rarely necessary.

- Boots, there is absolutely nothing I cannot do in uninsulated Bean boots. I wear the same pair year round. They're the perfect size to fit acceptably over ordinary socks, but large enough to permit an additional wool layer in winter. My feet are never cold when I'm using them no matter the weather. When I'm stationary, such as ambush hunting, I just wrap my feet in a section of blanket. I do not see any need for specialized winter boots, and I don't see how you can keep the insulation clean unless the liner is removable, which it often isn't. Winter boots also frequently fail to function well with snow shoes. Snow shoes are indispensable up here. I also often wear "water socks" if it's above 30 degrees. These are very comfortable, inexpensive, moccasin-like footwear that allow me to move silently and increase the rate of run-ins I have with animals while moving. They weigh nothing and I keep a pair in my pack at all times. Combined with a walking stick to serve as a third leg to distribute weight to, I can get within Glock distance of deer and black bear very easily.

- I EDC a large survival fixed blade every day. My current favorite is the "Drop Forged Survivalist" from Cold Steel. It's a homegenous chunk of 52100 steel with no structural weak spots, and I can baton it through anything and fell trees 8" in diameter with it if I have to. That combined with a small folding knife for whittling and dressing game are the only blades I carry. I don't bring a tomahawk or an axe unless I'm really going to need it.

- My sharpening device is my own invention. It's a 4"X1" soft Arkansas stone affixed to a 1"X1" aluminum rectangular tube, with a leather chromium oxide loaded strop affixed to the other side. The tube is just long enough to allow for the use of plastic angle guides. The tube provides clearance for your fingers so that you can use the entire length of the stone, unlike if you were just holding the stone directly. This also promotes even wear on the stone so it won't take on dished character. Additional angle guides can be stored inside the tube. Beyond this I also carry a 6" triangular file which only weighs 2.8 ounces IIRC for repairing serious damage, it's narrow enough to bite carbon and most tool steels using only one hand without having to clamp the blade to a bench. A chainsaw file works too but is too easy to screw up with and doesn't do points well. The progression of file>soft Arkansas>Chromeox strop can produce edges that are about 90% as effective as anything I have ever achieved even with the finest Japanese water stones or SiC paper. Using only the file and my sharpening device I can take virtually any edged tool in any state of disrepair and bring it up to my standards in less than an hour.

- Fire starting is something I've never gotten fancy about. I practiced the bow drill method enough to satisfy myself that it is very easy. Beyond that I just carry bic lighters. They are extremely reliable, cheap, and lightweight, as countless smokers will attest. In wet conditions there is always birch bark around the corner and dry firewood inside a dead standing snag. I have never had any difficulty making a fire in my entire life even when deliberately doing so under the worst possible conditions.

- "Luxury item" is a good description of a camp stove. I use one every day, but only at my truck. I've never brought one camping. I just bring some jerky and trail mix and vitamins and find that sufficient. I use a very thin steel lightweight mug to melt snow in and boil water in. Sometimes I roast wild meat and fish over a fire in small pieces and just dip them in barbecue sauce packets.

- For water I only carry two 8 ounce Poland spring bottles from a gas station a year ago. There is water everywhere up here so there really isn't any need to pack alot of it. The two bottles allow me to distribute the weight better. I also carry a lifestraw, but rarely use it even when hiking all day.

- For taking a dump I put together Ziploc bags with 5 paper towels each soaked in the same baking soda solution that I bathe with daily.

- Everything else in OPs post I agree with. He clearly knows what he's doing.

Thanks for your reply, being that you are a full time outdoorsman I really appreciate your input.
 
I've been hunting and fishing in Maine, NH, and VT since childhood. Not exactly the rocky mountains, but plenty cold and wet enough. I'm also a homeless person and live the way people camp full-time and have for years. Here are my thoughts.

- Thermal underwear is unnecessary. Underwear is the thinnest layer of clothing you wear, and the closest to your body. It is the least likely to get wet and the fastest to dry if it does (such as if you layer improperly and get a little sweaty while chopping wood.) I wear the same Hanes polycotton underwear and tshirts from Walmart year round no matter what I'm doing and have never had any issues even when miles from civilization in a noreaster. I do wear wool socks, but only as a boot liner over normal polycotton socks. The job of underwear is scent control, you change it every day so that you don't stink up your heavy, expensive clothing. If the underwear itself is heavy and expensive it defeats the purpose.

- The only shell I need is a raincoat. The job of a shell is to repel moisture and wind, a raincoat does both exceptionally. My favorite raincoat is a buckskin colored Helly Hansen raincoat that is knee-length and hooded and cost me $79 at Sam's in Brattleboro and, in conjunction with as many cheap polyester and wool surplus insulation layers as I feel necessary underneath, is all I need to brave the elements whether a freezing November rain or a howling -5F January night. I only use it in the cold months, from April-October I just use the rain poncho I keep in my pack. I threw all my expensive winter parkas in the donation bin.

- A baseball cap is a must because it keeps rain off my glasses, fits under a hood, and I keep a flashlight permanently affixed to it. It should be polyester so it dries quickly. I can wear a beanie over it for extra warmth but with my hair it's rarely necessary.

- Boots, there is absolutely nothing I cannot do in uninsulated Bean boots. I wear the same pair year round. They're the perfect size to fit acceptably over ordinary socks, but large enough to permit an additional wool layer in winter. My feet are never cold when I'm using them no matter the weather. When I'm stationary, such as ambush hunting, I just wrap my feet in a section of blanket. I do not see any need for specialized winter boots, and I don't see how you can keep the insulation clean unless the liner is removable, which it often isn't. Winter boots also frequently fail to function well with snow shoes. Snow shoes are indispensable up here. I also often wear "water socks" if it's above 30 degrees. These are very comfortable, inexpensive, moccasin-like footwear that allow me to move silently and increase the rate of run-ins I have with animals while moving. They weigh nothing and I keep a pair in my pack at all times. Combined with a walking stick to serve as a third leg to distribute weight to, I can get within Glock distance of deer and black bear very easily.

- I EDC a large survival fixed blade every day. My current favorite is the "Drop Forged Survivalist" from Cold Steel. It's a homegenous chunk of 52100 steel with no structural weak spots, and I can baton it through anything and fell trees 8" in diameter with it if I have to. That combined with a small folding knife for whittling and dressing game are the only blades I carry. I don't bring a tomahawk or an axe unless I'm really going to need it.

- My sharpening device is my own invention. It's a 4"X1" soft Arkansas stone affixed to a 1"X1" aluminum rectangular tube, with a leather chromium oxide loaded strop affixed to the other side. The tube is just long enough to allow for the use of plastic angle guides. The tube provides clearance for your fingers so that you can use the entire length of the stone, unlike if you were just holding the stone directly. This also promotes even wear on the stone so it won't take on dished character. Additional angle guides can be stored inside the tube. Beyond this I also carry a 6" triangular file which only weighs 2.8 ounces IIRC for repairing serious damage, it's narrow enough to bite carbon and most tool steels using only one hand without having to clamp the blade to a bench. A chainsaw file works too but is too easy to screw up with and doesn't do points well. The progression of file>soft Arkansas>Chromeox strop can produce edges that are about 90% as effective as anything I have ever achieved even with the finest Japanese water stones or SiC paper. Using only the file and my sharpening device I can take virtually any edged tool in any state of disrepair and bring it up to my standards in less than an hour.

- Fire starting is something I've never gotten fancy about. I practiced the bow drill method enough to satisfy myself that it is very easy. Beyond that I just carry bic lighters. They are extremely reliable, cheap, and lightweight, as countless smokers will attest. In wet conditions there is always birch bark around the corner and dry firewood inside a dead standing snag. I have never had any difficulty making a fire in my entire life even when deliberately doing so under the worst possible conditions.

- "Luxury item" is a good description of a camp stove. I use one every day, but only at my truck. I've never brought one camping. I just bring some jerky and trail mix and vitamins and find that sufficient. I use a very thin steel lightweight mug to melt snow in and boil water in. Sometimes I roast wild meat and fish over a fire in small pieces and just dip them in barbecue sauce packets.

- For water I only carry two 8 ounce Poland spring bottles from a gas station a year ago. There is water everywhere up here so there really isn't any need to pack alot of it. The two bottles allow me to distribute the weight better. I also carry a lifestraw, but rarely use it even when hiking all day.

- For taking a dump I put together Ziploc bags with 5 paper towels each soaked in the same baking soda solution that I bathe with daily.

- Everything else in OPs post I agree with. He clearly knows what he's doing.
Excelllent post you defineately know what it takes to survive
 
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