Bear creek bullets - Moly coated polymer safe for bores?

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Does anyone have any experience with bear creek bullets, and if the polymer/moly mix is safe for bores?

or does it cause corrosion and/or "ruin" the bores permanently like what some precision rifle shooters claim about moly coated jacketed bullets?

Also, does anyone have experience with bear creek bullets and black powder?
 
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Does anyone have any experience with bear creek bullets, and if the polymer/moly mix is safe for bores?

or does it cause corrosion and/or "ruin" the bores permanently like what some precision rifle shooters claim about moly coated jacketed bullets?

Also, does anyone have experience with bear creek bullets and black powder?

I've used 10k plus rounds in my GP100 6". No problems. I clean after every range session, that's standard for me no matter what I shoot. 357 case, 5 grains 231, mag primer with the bullet seated taper crimp over the ogive so not to distort the bullet. Coal 1.515. RNFP. Cronoed at 910 to 925. Very accurate! Will ring a 6" steel at 70 yds. Makes an old guy HAPPY!
HBWC 3.2 G of 231, 38 cases, COAL 1.245 puts a big smile on my face too! All my cases are trimmed. 38 1.145" and 357 1.280. Enjoy the Bear Creek!
Can't help with black powder.
 
. . . or does it cause corrosion and/or "ruin" the bores permanently. . .
Some benchrest shooters can be so dramatic.

Moly (over jacketed) requires a lot of cleaning to completely remove from the bore, and does reduce bore friction. Likely you'll see the same effect from moly over polymer, but you won't care. You aren't wrenching at the boundaries of metrology, metallurgy, and black voodoo to peel 0.05MOA off your group size.

So go shoot, and you'll likely notice a slight improvement in fouling and bore friction if you measure closely.
 
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…if the polymer/moly mix is safe for bores?

To fully know we would have to know what’s in the “mix”. Tell them you own an indoor range and are thinking about selling their product for use in your range but would like to see an MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) on the coating they use. That will tell you more about what’s in it.

Some “moly” coatings I have seen contain only fractions of a percent molybdenum. It’s just a catchy name that stuck to a number of products that are different from one another. Generally not even referred to by the manufacturer as “moly” bullets but users don’t care about proper description. Kind of like magazine vs clip…

Almost no one tumble coats bullets with molybdenum powder. That was a ‘90’s fad for jacketed bullets. That process and results are different than common “coated” bullets these days that almost always include some source of heat for curing.

This was an at home “moly” coating kit intended for jacketed bullets.

B114C9BD-E14B-42C7-B817-02F0698F1C79.jpeg

Never intended for use on lead bullets and gave awful results if one made the attempt.

PC and Hi-Tek are two bullet coatings I have used that do work on lead, then again there are many different powders out there and at least two different methods (probably formula’s) for Hi-tek.
 
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I've used 10k plus rounds in my GP100 6". No problems. I clean after every range session, that's standard for me no matter what I shoot

Your barrel will love Moly-Coated bullets. I've shot 10s of thousands of them and they are very clean. You won't have to run a brush through your bore as often, cleanup is very quick. You will gain a few fps also.
This is pretty reassuring - thanks guys, going to place an order today!


Some benchrest shooters can be so dramatic.

Moly (over jacketed) requires a lot of cleaning to completely remove from the bore, and does reduce bore friction. Likely you'll see the same effect from moly over polymer, but you won't care. You aren't wrenching at the boundaries of metrology, metallurgy, and black voodoo to peel 0.05MOA off your group size.
To fully know we would have to know what’s in the “mix”. Tell them you own an indoor range and are thinking about selling their product for use in your range but would like to see an MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) on the coating they use. That will tell you more about what’s in it.

Some “moly” coatings I have seen contain only fractions of a percent molybdenum. It’s just a catchy name that stuck to a number of products that are different from one another. Generally not even referred to by the manufacturer as “moly” bullets but users don’t care about proper description. Kind of like magazine vs clip…

Almost no one tumble coats bullets with molybdenum powder. That was a ‘90’s fad for jacketed bullets. That process and results are different than common “coated” bullets these days that almost always include some source of heat for curing.

From reading articles/posts on benchrest and precision websites, i've heard they have two explanations:
1) the moly coating is molybdenum disulfide, and under high pressure and heat, the disulfide decomposes into free sulfides that react with the water vapor from the combustion of nitrocellulose to form sulfuric acid, which then corrodes the bore.
2) the moly melts at high pressure and heat and through some unknown reaction, bonds to the steel in a bore and becomes "permanently" attached, which then reduces accuracy like leading, but is impossible to remove

Now i don't know whether any of that is true. Or if it only occurs for high pressure rifle cartridges shooting jacketed bullets coated in MoSO2. Or if this is a concern for bear creek bullets, where the moly is impregnated into the polymer (are these like Albert's swaged bullets from a couple decades ago?)

But your experiences are reassuring, thanks guys going to order some from bear creek now
 
i run bearcreek bullets in my handguns all the time. i demand accuracy above all and these bullets hit that mark.

luck,

murf
 
Can't speak for Bearcreek but during the maybe early 90s mid 90s moly coating bullets was all the rage. Tried it and never saw any big difference in much of anything including group size. The novelty wore off and that was about it. I did scrub my bores before using moly coated bullets and after using them. Still have a large container of moly since a very little bit goes a very long way. :)

Ron
 
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