Before putting a bullet into the shell casing....

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I made up a list a while ago, of everything I knew of that needs to be remembered/considered regarding reloading. I'll post it here if anyone's interested.

Some of it sounds "obvious", but for a lot of people new to reloading, I think very little of it is "obvious".

(Lots of the things I have listed were things I became aware of only after participating in this forum!)
 
Mike: Good thread, and necessary, what with so many beginners trying reloading! :)

I look into each and every pistol case, and have a "tool" I stick into my bottleneck rifle cases that tells me if I have created a "short round".

So far, so good, although I know that can change with a moment of inattention. Be Well!
 
Yes, I always check with the headlamp and rethrow charges I have any doubts about. If I have to re-weigh I always check inside with the headlamp and a magnifying glass to make sure I've thumped all the kernels out of the pocket also.
 
Always. It takes a few seconds to do so, and on 2 occasions I found double charges. There's no downside to doing so, and the upside of preventing damage to your guns and preventing injuries is well worth those few seconds.
 
If I can't use a lockout/powder check die, even if I need an extra light and a mirror, I want to see the charge.
 
jmorris said:
If I can't use a lockout/powder check die, even if I need an extra light and a mirror, I want to see the charge.
Click to expand...
That is what I do also.

In short pistol cases, it is easy to look into each case. In longer revolver cases, I usually trust the powder check die...but looking at it has to be part of a rigid routine
 
With a 38 Special case, loaded with only 2.8 grains of Bullseye powder, would the lockout die still work?

I'm going to have an empty station if I don't use the lockout die. While I plan to check every shell visually, is there any reason not to put the lockout die in that empty station? I know that on 45 ACP it stops for no/double charge, but with such a small amount of powder, would it still function just as well?
 
rg1 said:
I first want to load a powder that more than half fills the case to avoid the possibility of a double charge. I too look into every case mouth to make sure there's powder in the case before seating a bullet. Another thing I always check is that primers are seated usually below flush. Doesn't take very little time to do the check. I take a straight edge, usually my caliper and put it across the case head then hold it up to my bench light. I'm looking for a little slit of light between the straight edge and the primer. Knock on wood, I've only had one misfire in 30 or so years and it was due to a high primer. And get this, a stranger at the range asked if he could shoot my pistol and it misfired. I tried it a second time and it fired. Checked the entire lot and found a couple other high primers in the 50 round box. Won't happen again, a high primer. I also do a triple check on using the correct powder. I've seen several posts in just the last couple years where a gun exploded from using the wrong powder. Plus companies are making bottles and labels that look very similar today. Need to read the powder numbers.
Click to expand...
When I started handloading, I had trouble getting primers to fully seat. I didn't know there was a size variation & some brands of primers are not a good match for certain brands of cases. When I found the right combination, I'd stock up on those primers. I also learned that priming on the press was not nearly as good as a hand-priming tool; you can really feel when the primer is fully seated. I also won't use a powder that doesn't fill half the case.
 
With a 38 Special case, loaded with only 2.8 grains of Bullseye powder, would the lockout die still work?
Click to expand...
I don't know what exact die your asking about but depending on the powder I can set my Dillon PC does to detect just a few tenths of a grain missing or added.

DSC02167.jpg

There is an arbor that has a diameter that corresponds to the ID of the case your loading that is attached to the threads that can be adjusted up and down in the part with the "V" notch. With the ram all the way up if the little "pecker" is not inside the V, because of a high or low charge, the alarm sounds.
 
Not paranoid at all.
I seated a bullet in an empty primed case once. It caused the bullet to jump just far enough out of the case to be a huge pain in the derriere.
 
Like jmorris, I see AND hear that the level of powder in every round that passes through my XL650 or 1050 is where it needs to be. It is good to be both time-efficient and safe.

Its no accident that the powder check system is right in front of the operator's eyes on an XL650.

When I use my single-stage press, though, every round is visually checked for powder while still in the loading blocks, using a hand-held light, just before seating bullets.
 
On my LCT I try and check every single one visually. Use the Inline Fabrication lighting for it. Some cases are easier than others though.

I also use IF's Pod and frame light on my XL650, but that's got a powder checker, so alarms go off literally if i am really off up or down.

Single stage is usually in batches and I have a light above the reloading tray checking that they all look the same.
 
9mmepiphany said:
You don't carry a squib rod?
Click to expand...

I'm very confused. First, I couldn't find a squib rod on the internet that looked like what you posted. So, I checked the link, and it's from "deweyrods.com". I called Deweyrods, and they told me they don't make anything like what I described, and they don't have a "squib rod". I gave them the file name for the image (deweyrods.com/wp-content/uploads/M16B.jpg) and they told me M16B is a "rod guide for an AR-15".

Can you suggest what I should buy, and where to get it?
 
mikemyers said:
I'm very confused. First, I couldn't find a squib rod on the internet that looked like what you posted. So, I checked the link, and it's from "deweyrods.com". I called Deweyrods, and they told me they don't make anything like what I described, and they don't have a "squib rod". I gave them the file name for the image (deweyrods.com/wp-content/uploads/M16B.jpg) and they told me M16B is a "rod guide for an AR-15".

Can you suggest what I should buy, and where to get it?
Click to expand...
As long as it is rigid enough, a cleaning rod can be used for a squib. I like the "Pro Shot."
 
I did some more searching, and eventually found this:

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/stuck-case-removers/45-cal--sku084175045-1251-4415.aspx?cm_mmc=cse-_-Itwine-_-shoppingpla-_-Squib%20Rod&gdffi=4c10f1ff40354714b834b0032f76348a&gdfms=1613A56FB85E44C0866069CA475A2704

For 38/357:
ITEM DETAILS
Caliber: 38/357 Caliber (.357-.359), 9 mm (.355-.356)

l_084175357_1.jpg

"Far superior to other rods or makeshift punches, this non-marring brass rod fits the bore closely, can't wedge between bullet nose and rifling. Each rod is drilled and tapped to thread onto a Dewey cleaning rod; very handy for knocking stuck bullets out of rifle barrels."
 
That was just a picture I ripped off the internet that looked like what I use...I actually have the Dewy Rod for cleaning my AR and it won't work as a squib rod.

Mine was handturned by a guy at my local IDPA club and is made from brass...I just don't have a picture
 
Grainger has different diameters of brass rod. Machine shops will have it.

A piece of 1/4" brass rod I found somewhere. Works fine.

attachment.php
 
Yup, brass rod will work.

Mine has a threaded weight on the end to make pounding out the bullet easier (mass is your friend). Really helps when you have a revolver squib as you have to reseat the bullet into the case to open the cylinder
 
I recommend doing exactly that. Look in the case and ensure there is powder in it. One time... that is how the story always starts.... but anyway, I went to the range with my Glock 27. Fired about 150 rounds. Went home to clean my pistols and discovered that the last round I fired was still in the barrel of my Glock! Had I fired one more round... only thing I could come up with is that, that particular case received no gun powder. Now I visually verify powder in case. Every time.

Regards
Coldfinger
 
I generally have a few sections of .375 and .25 brass rod in my match range bag.

Never have needed one myself but have given a number of them away over the years, generally to folks that, 1 don't put an eyeball on every charge and 2 don't have a powder check.

From what I have seen, where there is one squib, another is soon to follow.
 
I once reloaded fifty cartridges and five had no powder so keep on keepin on.
 
I always load on a SS or turret press and use the batch method. One of the most crucial steps it to look at the loading block full of powdered brass to make sure ALL of them have the same height of propellant in them before seating any bullets. So far I have not had any unintentional squibs in 30+ years reloading. I hope to make that a perfect record for as long as I reload.;)
 
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