Beretta 686 ejectors haywire

[peacemaker45]

Ok, so I bought a 686 Black Onyx for my dad several years ago, in hopes of enticing him to get out and come hunting with me. Unfortunately, it didn't work, and it's just sat in the safe for about nine years. I decided it needed an airing last weekend, and took it out pheasant hunting. I did pull the barrels off and lube the hinge, and tried to get rid of all the crud I could see.

Anyhow, on the day, it shot fine, but the selective ejectors weren't being particularly selective. It'd quite often kick out both the fired and unfired shell, and sometimes even kick out the unfired one, while leaving the fired one behind.

Also, it was stiff as a board to break open, but I assume that's just because it's never really been broken in.

Do you figure this is just a case of some crud that I didn't get, or something more serious?

 

[greyling22]

http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/22032-how-to-service-beretta-686-auto-ejectors/

 

[oneounceload]

You might try blasting the areas with something like brake cleaner to fluch out any crud and then add some oil

 

[John3921]

As the video oneounce referenced shows the ejectors are pretty simple to remove and clean. push them in partway and they just twist out of their ways. Make sure you block the spring and pin from launching - they are under a fair amount of pressure. I keep enough of my thumb hanging over the edge of the ejector to block them.

Take the springs out and then work the ejectors in their ways and see if they are sticking or hanging. I use a fine stone and just break the edges of the head of the ejectors to remove any burrs.

That said - I don't really see how gunky ejectors can do as you describe. The eject/extract function of the ejector is controlled by the forearm levers and the cocking rods. Make sure the forearm is installed correctly and that the levers are clean and operating.

You might want to check the cocking rods. Cock the gun, then remove the forearm and bbls. The two rods in the bottom of the receiver should be lightly spring loaded and pushed forward. If either of them are loose then there is an issue with cocking rode levers inside the action.

 

[peacemaker45]

Thanks guys. I got it apart today, and the ejector for the upper barrel was sticking in the down position. Thus it would stay down until the gun banged open, then it would dislodge and eject, whether it was supposed to or not. When I got it apart, it turned out to be just slightly oversize all around. I got out my files, stones, and Sharpie, and set about bringing it down to size, until it ran free in its race.

It was a longer job than I expected, though. Beretta must use some pretty tough steel. My little mini files just skittered off, and wouldn't hardly bite. If the rest of the gun's the same, it should last about another 5000 years, at this rate.

 

[oneounceload]

Berettas and Brownings, with some minor maintenance, will go towards 500,000 rounds; Perazzis are good for 1,000,000+

Sometimes simple is best

 

[John3921]

I get mixed reports - but I think if you buy replacement ejectors they are soft and have to be timed, fit, and then heat treated. Coles Gunsmithing in Maine (about the best Beretta Gunsmiths in the country) charges $100 + parts for each ejector to fit and heat treat. Being as they heat treated, they are not going to file well.

http://www.colegun.com/pages/gunsmithing-services

Glad you figured it out!