Best combat revolver?

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I love the S&W 19 & 66. My 19 was carried by my grandfather for many years in downtown Denver - doesn't look it I know. My 66 (magna-ported) was carried by my uncle with the Tulsa police for many years. That one took down a mountain lion in the city in the 80's. When I worked patrol I would have carried one of these 357 magnum revolvers over any auto if they'd of let me.

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I'd probably choose a Webley Mk VI in .455 cal. It served the British army well from, IIRC, 1887-1963.
 
cpirtle
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"Yeah, I have to go with an N frame.. Either a 4" Model 28, the PC 327 or the TRR8.

I shoot the TRR8 for IDPA and carry occasionally in the winter, the 327 is my EDC belt gun.
"
Soo many acronyms hard to keep up?
Steve
 
Model 25 Mountain Gun (.45 Colt). Good combination of power/weight/size in a cartridge that is strong at any speed. After that I'd go for an L or K frame in .357 or a .44 special.
 
Since we are talking about all around accuracy, reliability and durability. It has to be a Ruger. For me that would be my 6" GP100, worn crossdraw of course, with my 3" SP101 for backup, worn strongside.

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Already stated my case, but I see that this thread needs more pics (in addition to the few, but excellent, ones provided thus far).

Here is one from the safe that would work:

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And, one just for the OP! :D

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That's what I'm talking about! Those are pure beauty.
 
I've found that verifying each shot impacts something down range and also marking my "Ruger Only" ammo boxes with a large red sharpie is an effective way to prevent that problem.

Yeah, based on the buldge location that one pretty clearly had something (another bullet?) lodged roughly under the sight blade. I think combat rediness and stupidity are mutually exclusive.

cpirtle
Member



"Yeah, I have to go with an N frame.. Either a 4" Model 28, the PC 327 or the TRR8.

I shoot the TRR8 for IDPA and carry occasionally in the winter, the 327 is my EDC belt gun.
"
Soo many acronyms hard to keep up?
Steve

;)

N frame = Not an acronym
PC = Performance Center
TRR8 = not an acronym AFAIK
AFAIK = as far as I know
IDPA = International Defensive Pistol Association
EDC = every day carry
 
Suprised there's not more love for the 28 in this thread..

Here's my Pre-28, have yet to find a load that this gun doesn't make feel like a plinker round.

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Since I've already posted in favor of the old 1917's as "combat" revolvers and this seems to be more of an urban combat thread, I'll throw up my King Cobra as an alternative.
 

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I would say an early GP100 is a good candidate for a "combat" revolver. My two older ones have what could be called grunge grooves under the extractor, so that small particles of debris, such as unburned powder, will be less likely to cause binding of the cylinder. Ruger makes a good, tough, reliable sixgun.

On a day-to-day basis, for concealment, I would rather actually carry my S&W Model 19 Combat Magnum. This is not idle speculation; I often do carry mine. I reckon it will not tolerate as many magnum loads, over time, as its slightly larger-framed cousins. That is OK, as my aging wrists will not tolerate too many magnums, either. I practice mostly with a Model 17, in .22 LR, and fire enough mid-level/mild magnums through the Model 19 for familiarization.

Regarding the excellent N-frame revolvers, I love their looks, but they are too big for my hands, and for the most part, I do not collect firearms just to look at them. If I had larger hands, and wanted to carry a revolver where extended combat might well happen, I might well opt for an S&W 25 or 625, and carry reloads in full moon clips, inside a sturdy protective pouch.
 
For me, a Model 13 S&W, or an equivalent stainless one - even a 64 in "just" .38 Special - is the ticket, with a round butt and heavy 3" barrel.
 
S&W Model 13-3, shipped 1982.
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This is my primary concealed carry gun.

S&W Model 681 (ND), shipped 1982.
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This is a former Tulsa Police Department gun that my wife appropriated from me.

Lately I've become very fond of my issued 4 inch Model 686-6. I'm going to have to buy a 3 inch or 4 inch of my own.

ECS
 
My first pick would be a 4" N frame in 45 ACP or long Colt.

Next would be the S&W 1917 in 45 ACP.



To address a diferent matter,

Rexter ...I would rather actually carry my S&W Model 19 Combat Magnum ... I reckon it will not tolerate as many magnum loads, over time

The M19 will hold up just fine with the 158 grain loads. It is with the lighter weights (110 and 125) that issues developed with flame cutting. Your choice of the M19 is a great one, if you like the 357 Magnum!
 
I guess I would have to follow the lead of General Patton and carry a pair, but I would probably make the calibers something I could find in the field, like 45acp or 9mm. With that in mind I would probably carry my S&W 625 (45acp) and my Ruger Blackhawk convertible (45acp). After all, in a combat situation my primary is not going to be any handgun, so why not be stylish in what you carry? . . . . .lol
 
S&W 66
or any "K" frame with a 4 inch barrel for that matter. For a cheepskate you could do a Ruger Security Six, or one of that line of revolver (Speed Six, Service Six...).

Edit: WHAT AM I THINKING?!?!?! The ABSOLUTELY best combat revolver is the S&W 29!

Feel lucky?
 
The S&W model 19 and pre lock model 66. Everything you need, nothing you don't. TJ
 
Yes, StrawHat is correct about the proper loads for the Model 19. It is the light-weight jacketed bullets at high velocity that are most destructive to K-frame sixguns. I happen to like Winchester Silvertips, a not-so-light bullet in a cartridge landed a bit below max pressure, but with a well-established reputation for effectiveness, among Southwest lawmen.

I do use the hot 125-grain JHPs in my sturdier GP100 sixguns; I have seen first-hand what those do to a human.
 
For me it would be a S&W 686+ with a 4" barrel loaded with some spicy 158grn lightning bolts.

Did I mention the gun needed to be hand polished to a mirror finish and have a set of checkered rosewood finger groove stocks on it too? :cool:

But... back to reality, I'll grab my M10.

-Jake
 
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