Best combat revolver?

[Deaf Smith]

Why a Ruger?

Maintenance.

See most revolvers are six shots, DA/SA, swing out cylinder, etc...

But ONLY a Ruger can be taken apart in the field. Dirt, mud, sand, twigs, etc... can be cleaned out without the resort of an armor. None of the others have that.

Yes Rugers are tough. S&W 686's are tough to. Colts (if you can find them) are tough to. But the Ruger can be maintained in the field, and after all we are talking about COMBAT REVOLVERS, not show or field guns.

All are tough guns above, but the Rugers are better combat guns.

Deaf

 

[sidheshooter]

^^^This is, of course, true.


One *could* just go with a Wiley Clapp GP100 and move on to a different thread.


But where's the fun in that?

 

[bikemutt]

^^^This is, of course, true.


One *could* just go with a Wiley Clapp GP100 and move on to a different thread.


But where's the fun in that?

Good point. I just bought one (on layaway). Other than my Redhawks the Wiley Clapp was the first Ruger I saw since forever I just had to have. Who the heck is Wiley Clapp anyway?

 

[steveo452]

THE Smith and Wesson Model 19 with a 4" barrel.

What he said.

 

[David E]

Who the heck is Wiley Clapp anyway?

he's a gunwriter

 

[valnar]

I'll add another recommendation for the 5" Model 625 in .45ACP with moon clips.

 

[jrod]

I also vote for the S&W 681.

 

[StrawHat]

I am rather surprised by the number of folks opting for the 357 Magnum.

 

[Stainz]

How many have dissected a Ruger SP-101/GP-100? First, you need a screwdriver - to remove those grip sideplates and reveal where that take-down pin is supposed to be. I don't know where to find the pin on/in a monogrip equipped (no sideplates) model - oops. No matter - a middle sized paperclip will suffice; "Stop the battle! Anyone have a paper clip?". Okay, hammer spring trapped - assembly removed - apply force on the trigger group retaining - probably stuck - spring loaded plunger - don't slip with that screwdriver while pushing that plunger and add a new sanguination orifice. Now what? You have the frame, trigger group, and hammer spring/strut/paper clip pieces separated. Dissassembly of the trigger group requires a ZipLoc bag, so you an catch the teeny parts. Hammer removal, etc, is straight forward - don't lose the axle/pin. Those parts are 'in the open' in use - shooting clad bullets - much less lube smoke - will help extend cleaning cycles.

Start with a revolver where the innards are pretty well enclosed, hmmm, like a S&W, and you may go through it's service life without removing it's sideplate and innards. My EDC 24/7 pocket protector, a 642, hasn't been apart since I bought it, when I inspected it. Probably 3k rounds through it now - the vast majority being clad. Sometimes I remove the cylinder to clean it, else I clean it with everything 'in situ'. The same goes for my other S&W's, from .327 fed Magnum to .38/.357M to .44 Rus/Spcl/Mag to .45 Colt/Schof/ACP/AR; J, K, L, N. & Z-frames alike. I have had both - dissected everything - I now have only S&Ws!

I am thinking that for 'continued' longterm unserviced life, any revolver should be fed clad ammo of a known decent quality - and without excessive 'smoke'. That 'smoke', whether from excess lube, incomplete propellant combustion, or other sources, including lead, can occlude your sighting view and reveal your position, as well as indicate the source of the acquired filth on your firearm. Try not to shoot excessively smokey, or 'dirty' ammo. Don't acquire filth any faster than you must and deciding who's firearm 'field strips' more easily becomes axiomatic.

Stainz

 

[jdh]

A pistol is one piece of additional gear to add to a soldier.
I suggested a L frame due to its ability to hold 7 rounds and its proven strength. A nice balance of strength and weight.
I was tempted to suggest a K frame, but its just not as strong for a decade or so of military use as a issue weapon to soldiers.
A N frame is heavier, has a larger grip. Is a bit bulkier with no strength advantage over a L frame and the only advantage I see is the ability to shoot 8 rounds of .357.

My 327 holds more and weighs 5 ounces (Loaded)less than my 586, which does not take moon clips.
The 327 came with combat finger groove grips, the 586 Target grips. The grips on the N-frame are a better fit.

N-frame has more ammo, lighter weight, faster reloads, and better fitting grips. That is why an N-frame.

 

[David E]

How many have dissected a Ruger SP-101/GP-100? First, you need a screwdriver - to remove those grip(s)

Or you could use the rim of a cartridge case. NO tools are required to disassemble a Ruger Security Six or GP-100

and reveal where that take-down pin is supposed to be. I don't know where to find the pin on/in a monogrip equipped (no sideplates) model - oops. No matter - a middle sized paperclip will suffice; "Stop the battle! Anyone have a paper clip?"

If it's missing, replace it! Silly to imagine you'd be doing this during a firefight.

Okay, hammer spring trapped - assembly removed - apply force on the trigger group retaining - probably stuck - spring loaded plunger - don't slip with that screwdriver while pushing that plunger and add a new sanguination orifice.

Doing this step properly would remove those concerns.

Now what? You have the frame, trigger group, and hammer spring/strut/paper clip pieces separated. Dissassembly of the trigger group requires a ZipLoc bag, so you an catch the teeny parts. Hammer removal, etc, is straight forward - don't lose the axle/pin. Those parts are 'in the open' in use - shooting clad bullets - much less lube smoke - will help extend cleaning cycles.

Soooooo, disassembling a Colt or S&W is somehow easier and requires less knowledge and fewer tools?

Start with a revolver where the innards are pretty well enclosed, hmmm, like a S&W

But a Ruger isn't? Where does the Ruger have more holes than a Smith?

Sometimes I remove the (S&W) cylinder to clean it, else I clean it with everything 'in situ'.

Hope you use a properly sized gunsmith grade hollow ground screwdriver to correctly remove that essential tiny screw.

I have had both - dissected everything - I now have only S&Ws!

It's always nice to find "your" brand, be it guns, shoes or beer. But that doesn't mean other brands don't have some advantages over yours.

I own Ruger and S&W revolvers and will never sell any of them. The Ruger is more rugged, the Smith more refined. There's a place for each of those qualities in my usage.

 

[David E]

My 327 N-frame has more ammo, lighter weight, faster reloads, (with moonclips) and better fitting grips. That is why an N-frame.

How do you safely carry those 8-round loaded moonclips all day so they won't get bent, yet be secure and reasonably accessible?

 

[jdh]

Carried three in a coat pocket all winter long with no ill effects. And they do fit in an HKS n frame speed loader pouch.

 

[Deaf Smith]

Stainz,

Why would you take your revolver apart DURING A FIREFIGHT? Would you completely disassemble your Glock or 1911 while getting shot at?

But no matter what weapon you use, AR/AK on down to a NAA, you will in time have lots of crude in it if you really do use it as a battle weapon.

So maintainability is a serious factor.

If it wasn't then the military's M4s, M9s, M-240, Ma Duce,etc.. would be not be designed to be taken apart in the field.

Deaf

 

[David E]

Carried three in a coat pocket all winter long with no ill effects. And they do fit in an HKS n frame speed loader pouch.

Ever practice reloading from the pouch or pocket?

I have the HKS N-frame double pouch, while secure, it's slow and bulky.

I suppose the bulky part wouldn't matter for a "combat" revolver, but there are various interpretations of that term.

If concealability was a concern, that's a large gun coupled with a bulky pouch. If its not a concern, then both will work.

 

[jdh]

Every time I had to qualify at the very least. During lunch breaks on Thursdays for six weeks in a row for the last ten years when I was an instructor. Probably not enough though.

The 6 45 balls were easier to do than the 8 SWC, FYI.

 

[spotch]

No question, the eight shot capacity and moonclip capability convinced me of the utility of my 'extra' 2 5/8" PC627 UDR. It weighs in at <2 oz more than a Model 10, yet is more versatile. For 'combat' use, that rear sight would get replaced with an extreme duty semi-fixed. If you need them, .357 Magnums are a possibility. I trust in the old 'FBI load', the +P 158gr LHPSWC, like the softer Remington R38S12. I keep them moonclipped and in the 5starfirearms.com speedloaders & base plate.



I can shoot 12-15 yd SPC targets just as fast and just as accurately with the UDR as I can the 4" 627 Pro, but it would be a great choice if you just 'had' to have a 4" barrel. Great triggers on both!

Stainz

I'm with this guy

 

[David E]

Every time I had to qualify at the very least. During lunch breaks on Thursdays for six weeks in a row for the last ten years when I was an instructor. Probably not enough though.

That's pretty good practice!

The 6 45 balls were easier to do than the 8 SWC, FYI.

No doubt.

 

[Clipper]

While there's nothing as pretty as a combat masterpiece, at the end of the day I'd have to go with a 4" security six...

 

[jadm]

Best combat revolver?

smith model 29 with 44 special

 

[lg&m]

S&w m 19.

 

[The Man With No Name]

Wow! I've read all these posts and it was pretty entertaining to see the varying opinions yet the lack of variance in on way. Unless I missed something only one single action revolver mentioned (one lonely Blackhawk). Frankly if you are talking about "combat" handgun then a few things come to mind.

1. Weapon of last resort. Combat handgun isn't the weapon I'm going to fight with. The rifle will be and the handgun will be a tool of last resort when my rifle has experience a catastrophic failure that can't be immediately resolved.
2. With this in mind I just don't see reload speed as an issue.
3. I want a powerful round but with controllable recoil with a reasonable overall weight.

A SAA style revolver in 45 Long Colt just makes the most sense to me with all that in mind. Make it in stainless if I'm in bad situations where constant cleaning is required and I'd narrow it down to a stainless Ruger New Vaquero with a 4 3/4 inch barrel in 45 Long Colt.

Yes I know this is an Uberti. I'd choose it just because I like it, use a flap holster for the extra protection, and try to keep it oiled like it needs.

Edit: Not that it really matters but I guess their is also no denying the proven pedigree of the SAA as a true "combat" revolver.

 

[Green Lantern]

If "combat" is the key word, . . . then I would think that you would have to go with one having the largest capacity, . . . so one of the few 8 round .357mag revolvers with at least a 4" barrel.

I couldn't argue with this...which is one reason I nabbed a Model 627 8-shooter with a 4" barrel a while back. Apparently one of the few ones not a Custom Shop item...?

 

[gnb]

This one looks like it was made for combat.

 

[One_Jackal]

@GNB the pistols with the blade built in were favored by assassins and muggers. The idea is to stick the victim with the blade, then shoot it free.