Best Python value & investment(Nickel 2-1/2" or Blue 4"?)?

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slick6

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Assuming both Python's to be in the same condition and made in the 1970's or 80's?)both being NIB, which would be the best value(And, the best Python, investment?)a Nickel Python with a 2-1/2" barrel(Priced at $950)or, a Blued Python with a 4" barrel(Priced at $800?)? List your opinions(And reasons?)?
 
Nickel 2 1/2".
I've seen only one in 20 years. Oh how I wish I could have afforded to buy it.
 
buy the 2 1/2 inch python

they are rare and command premium prices.if your going at 950, make sure it has the correct box and grips
 
Pythons

Wow,
Well to tell you the truth, a blued 4 incher is about as common as they get. $800 is not bad, but it should be dead Mint for that money.

Minty Nickel Pythons tend to sell for less than Minty Blued ones and are not as desired generally.
BUT, on the other hand Nickel 2.5 inchers are not common by any stretch of the imagination. Personally, if I'm collecting and not shooting, I'm buying the 2.5 nickel hands down.
Are the grips/stocks and box original to the gun ?

To look at it another way, I see about 10-12 of the 4 to 6 inch Pythons to every 2.5 incher. The 6 incher being the most common. Finding a 2.5 inch Python is not an everyday thing. As far as nickel 2.5 inch Pythons. I see 1 to every 20 blued ones. That's just to put it in easy to understand terms. I've only seen a couple 2.5 in nickel. And I'm ALWAYS looking at Pythons. :D

Just my 2 pesos.
Jeff (GUNKWAZY)
 
Python

Don't forget you can always hunt down and replace the grips/stocks with the Colt factory service stocks, but plan on paying another $75-$125 for them. That should be thought of in pricing the gun.
They should look like this...

coltwood.jpg


FYI, The 2.5 inch Python was stopped about 10 years ago and the nickel guns were stopped about 8-10 years prior to that with the company switching to polished stainless.

Jeff (GUNKWAZY)
 
For the most part guns are not good investments. Better places to make higher returns. Buy the gun you want and don't worry about future value since guns go up so slowly in most cases that it will be your gandchildren who turn a profit on it, not you. The snubbie brings a real premium and is likely the better value between your two choices.
 
The 2 1/2 models ARE extremely difficult to find in ANIB condition, and they DO command a premium. Almost any ANIB Python with no letter suffix or prefix in the serial number will be a good investment, as handguns go.

GUNKWAZY and I both happen to have limited edition 2 1/2 "Snake Eyes" Pythons (hence, my handle). His is blue, mine is bright stainless.

I'll let mine go to you for $2500.

Too much? Try and find one!
 
...made in the 1970's or 80's?)both being NIB...

Good luck, friend! "NIB" means "new in box," which means it's not been fired since it left the factory. Do you sincerely believe people buy Pythons and leave them unshot?

"NIB" is auction site baloney for "doesn't look too bad."

My 2.5-inch Python is a mighty fine carry gun; so are my four-inch Pythons. They're all more accurate than I'll ever be again.
 
SW--I know you're cynical, but sheesh!!

I've seen a couple of Pythons (out of about, oh, 300) that I truly believed to be unfired.

A couple.
 
I agree

I agree with Snake on this one.
I have truley seen guns from many years back that I would bet the house on that they have not been fired other than factory test shot.
Shooters don't see or believe that, but true collectors do.
I collect many different things and have seen many items through the years that have been purchased and not even opened since purchased. I'm not talking stuff from the 70's or 80's, but items from the 50's & 60's.
What do people with these high dollar commemorative guns do, sneak out and shoot them when nobody's looking ? Why can't that happen with a normal gun ?

Jeff (GUNKWAZY)
 
Standing Wolf, I can certainly understand your distrust of dealers. Been down that road too many times myself.

However...I have in my safe a nickel Python that I had one of the best gunsmiths in the area look over before I said "OK" to the seller in the gunbroker.com auction.

The 'smith looked at everything: forcing cone, cylinders, bore, and so on, and told me the gun certainly appeared to be unfired.

Yeah, it has some faint drag lines on the cylinder, and I've added a few more.

Every so often, you meet an honest man. ;)

What strikes me about this thread is the disagreement over the value of blued versus nickel. In watching the actually-sold auctions, the nickel Pythons seem to fetch $50 or $100 more than blued. Or maybe I'm just paying more attention to the nickel models.
 
Nickel 2.5" Python:

If there is a box, the correct service stocks, all papers, and even if this nickel(2.5")Python has a letter "Prefix" or "Suffix", would this still be a good Python to collect(And, in terms of being more valuable?)?
 
If there is a box, the correct service stocks, all papers, and even if this nickel(2.5")Python has a letter "Prefix" or "Suffix", would this still be a good Python to collect(And, in terms of being more valuable?)?

In general, nickel-plated Pythons tend to sell for slightly less than blued or stainless steel; conversely, the 2.5-inch and eight-inch Pythons tend to command slight premiums, since there were fewer made than four- and six-inch models. The rarest seem to be the three-inch Pythons, of which, I've read, only a few hundred were made.
 
Really, I had always heard that the 8"-ers sold at a discount because there wasn't much demand! I'm actually interested in that data point, because there's an 8" Python floating around in the family.
 
Really, I had always heard that the 8"-ers sold at a discount because there wasn't much demand!

Your mileagle will vary: bet on it.

The eight-inch Python is seriously muzzle-heavy, bulky, and expensive to find holsters for. It's an ungodly accurate gun, but I doubt there are many people who've actually got a use for it as a shooting iron. Probably the single least useful Python Colt ever built was the eight-inch Python in .38 special. It would have made a fine bullseye gun, but Colt bought it to market about twenty years after both revolvers and the .38 special cartridge vanished from bullseye ranges.

I have to confess I take my eight-inch Python to the range no more than once or twice a year: even with orthopedic stocks, it's a bit much for my arthritic wrist.

Colt issued a few oddball eight-inch "hunting" Pythons, some in fancy cases with scopes installed at the factory. These command super-premium prices among collectors.

It'd be interesting to know what percentage of all Pythons made were in which barrel lengths.
 
I don't doubt a very few people leave Pythons unshot, and in fact, I'd guess there are probably more unshot Pythons per 1,000 produced than Glocks.

That saidâ„¢, it's got to be a very small percentage: they're just too delightful to shoot.
 
More specific's about the 2-1/2" Nickel Python & questions?

I went to thoroughly check out the 2-1/2"(Nickel)Python, and, I found that there is no box or papers with this gun! I honestly, can't be certain that this Python hasn't been fired? It does have a "Trace" of a cylinder ring(But, maybe, just from opening and closing the cylinder?)! The("E" prefix) serial number on this Python, puts it's DOB at late, 1974! It does have the correct service stocks on it! The price was $950-however, I pressed hard for a better deal(In view of no box or papers!)and, I got the price down to $775! Based upon this information provided, I have the following questions:

1)Is this Python, ruined as a collectible, because there is no box(Or, papers)or will the value still remain high(And, rise higher, as time rolls along!)or?

2)Is this Python, currently worth $775(Assuming that it has only been lightly, fired?)?

3)Is this(1974)Nickel(2-1/2")Python, still the better Python to buy-or, would the (1990)blued(4-inch)with Colt(Neoprene, finger groove grips?)with box(But, no papers!)now, be the better Python to buy(and, the best investment?)?

4)Please give me your expert opinions-as I would not want to buy the Nickel(2-1/2")Python, if not having the box or papers, will have killed this gun's value(Now, or in the future?)? I do like this Python, because it was made in the early 1970's(If this makes any difference?)! GUNKWAZY, I'd also, like to get your comments here again, also(As well as from any other's?)? Thanks!
 
Python

Hi Slick,
The only nickel 2.5 inch Python I've seen as of late was on Gunbroker. It had the wrong grips/stocks on it and the bidding went up to $800 and did NOT meet the reserve set on it. The gun was about 90%-95% with NO box or papers.
That is the first one I've seen in a l o n g time.
The original Box and papers is nice to have, but it did not kill the value or the collector value. I would say that it's rare that you find any 2.5 inch Python that's excellent to mint for less than $750-$800. As far as nickel Pythons go, they usually don't bring as much money as the Blued guns, but I would have to make an exception to the 2.5 incher. I do not own a Nickel Python, but I would be happy to put a 2.5 inch nickel in my collection if it was clean. The one you describe sounds very nice. It's a choice you have to make. If it feels good, do it. Unless the entire Colt market folds, you will not lose any money should you decide you change your mind. That's just my opinion. :D

coltsnubs.jpg


Jeff (GUNKWAZY)
 
(2.5")Nickel Python vs the (4")1990 "Blued" Python?

Hi GUNKWAZY:

1)There is one slight problem, with the 2-1/2" Nickel Python, that I forgot to mention before?: There are several(Very minute spots!)of rust, on the nickel finish(Looks to be just on the surface(But, otherwise, the nickel finish looks basicly, as new!))! Is there something that could be used, to safely, remove this rust(Without damaging(Or scratching the nickel finish?)?

2)Based upon the above(And, the prior information, that I have given about the two Python's in question(The 2-1/2" nickel(1974)Python and, the 4" "Blued"(1990)Python?)do you still think that the 2-1/2"(Nickel)Python would be the best choice(For $775)or, would the 4"(1990)"Blued Python, be the best choice(For $$800)in your opinion? I'd also, appreciate getting opinions from some other forum members as well? Thanks!
 
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There are several(Very minute spots!)of rust, on the nickel finish(Looks to be just on the surface

Nickel doesn't rust. The steel beneath it rusts. If the rust is visible all the way through the nickel, it's serious. You're looking at the proverbial "tip of the iceburg."

Four-inch blued Pythons are fairly common, so you ought to be able to acquire one any time. I think the nickel-plated Python snubs are uncommon—but I personally wouldn't even consider one with rust.

I'm looking for a 2.5-inch stainless Python in good condition at a reasonable (under $900) price: another decidedly uncommon Python that tends to command ludicrous prices. My rule of thumb in looking for Pythons, Diamondbacks, and top of the line High Standards is simple: it's going to take a lot longer than it ought.

Best of success, eh?
 
Collectors value has went way down if there is rust present. Are you sure that is rust you are seeing or the copper undercoating showing?
 
Rust?

I had assumed that those little(Dot like, spec's!)were rust-since these were tiny little(Rusty looking?)bumps sticking up above the surface of the nickel finish? I ran my finger nail across these small bumps, and my nail would catch on them! I was able to knock one very tiny spec off of the nickel finish with my finger nail-but, I couldn't knock off any more? These spots, are smaller than the point on a very fine ink pen(Or, no larger than this, at most!)! That's why I had the thought that maybe something like Break Free CLP, might remove these small dots of rust(If they were just on the surface of the nickel finish?)? Yikes!
 
If this IS a nickel finish and this IS rust, the finish is seriously compromised.

Ever seen an old car bumper with the chrome plating bubbling up and peeling off?
This is because moisture has infiltrated between the plating layers and the base steel.
The steel is rusting UNDER the plating, and the plating is coming off.

Same thing happens to nickel, so if you've got rust, the value just took a big drop.

Gently push off one of the rust spots and see what's under it.
If you see bright nickel, what you may have is a gun with some kind of dirt on it that might clean up.
 
Rust spots?

Thanks, dfariswheel!

These rusty looking spots, are light brown in color. And, there is no appearance of the nickel finish(And, it really is nickel!)lifting off! I will do as you have recommended, the next time that I go back to this Gun Shop, to view this Python again, to try to push-off another rusty looking bump? Would it hurt to try rubbing any of these spots, lightly, with a lead away cloth(Or, would this have an adverse affect, on the nickel finish?)? If so, is there something better I could try? Thanks!
 
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