Best way to keep stainless steel chips from getting “lost” during the process?

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Darth-Vang

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Okay, I have tumbled my .22lr and .25 acp with the small stainless steel chips and everytime I lose a few pieces of them!:fire::fire::fire: It gets pretty annoying everytime I see the pins drop out every transition…I was already setup with the frankford arsenal rotary tumbler and have the gold pan mesh “dish” set to seperate the frankford pins but since the chip pins does clean a bit faster went with those, does anyone have any ideas that has a similar setup like mines that can help improve pin loss?
 
I use paint strainer bags to capture the pins, that should work for chips too.
Once the pins are in the bag, I rinse the bag with the pins in it in buckets of clean water.
I spread the pins out, still in the bag to allow them to dry.
Once dried, I put the open end of the bag into the tumbler and shake the pins back into the tumbler.
I never need to chase any "transitioning/escaping pins because there is no transitioning.
Bags are cheap at $2.50 each:
TRIMACO 5 gal. Elastic Top Paint Strainer (2-Pack) 11523 - The Home Depot
jmo,
.
 
If you use steel pins or chips you will find them places you'd never think they'd be. You will find them everywhere.
I use the Harbor Freight magnet found in the welding section.

The magnet is leaning against the white bucket. Right around $12
20210529_095402.jpg
 
I use paint strainer bags to capture the pins, that should work for chips too.
Once the pins are in the bag, I rinse the bag with the pins in it in buckets of clean water.
I spread the pins out, still in the bag to allow them to dry.
Once dried, I put the open end of the bag into the tumbler and shake the pins back into the tumbler.
I never need to chase any "transitioning/escaping pins because there is no transitioning.
Bags are cheap at $2.50 each:
TRIMACO 5 gal. Elastic Top Paint Strainer (2-Pack) 11523 - The Home Depot
jmo,
.
Yes I have that too, but since the chips are so small it goes right through unlike the pins, so I just abandoned the paint strip mesh net all together. I also use the magnet but it’s so tedious since they’re so small and not to mention all wet and tends to “stick” to the magnet every often now and then. Unique methods do have unique problems it seems. I should look up ideas and come up with a better mouse trap.
 
Also I wanna say the chips do a waaaay better jobs than the pins. It’s a bit pricier than the pins for sure but definitely worth every penny. It could clean the pockets(so far tried only on 9mm and .25 acp) pretty well. No stuck pins in the case or pockets.(since their so small) Didnt look back at frankford pins after trying it.
 
Also forgot to mention that tiny brass with tiny media is a pain to separate. Their both small unlike the 9mm cases which is bigger than the media, just seems to fall out of it easier and seems easier to separate, but the water trick will definitely break the surface tension for sure. Probably should invest in a bigger tub and furnish a wire mesh basket for the little .22 lr and .25 acp brasses as my current factory separator wasn’t design with the tiny calibers in mind….
 
Yes I have that too, but since the chips are so small it goes right through unlike the pins, so I just abandoned the paint strip mesh net all together. I also use the magnet but it’s so tedious since they’re so small and not to mention all wet and tends to “stick” to the magnet every often now and then. Unique methods do have unique problems it seems. I should look up ideas and come up with a better mouse trap.
Well, if that were the case for me, I would toss the "so small chips" that go thru the bag as they are not adding any use to the tumbling.
They would be gone after a couple of cycles thru the bags and not be of any further bother.
If all the chips pass thru the bags, switch back to pins.

Any tumble time advantage gained using chips over pins is nothing because tumbling is the unattended part of the process, so why bother with the chips??
jmo,
.
 
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Also I wanna say the chips do a waaaay better jobs than the pins. It’s a bit pricier than the pins for sure but definitely worth every penny. It could clean the pockets(so far tried only on 9mm and .25 acp) pretty well. No stuck pins in the case or pockets.(since their so small) Didnt look back at frankford pins after trying it.

I can't envision "a way better job than with the pins", as my results with pins is outstanding but the chemical mix took a while to get right because of the condition of the water.
I'm not interested in a pics of tumbled brass face-off but could post some:uhoh:
:rofl:
.
 
How small are these chips that they pass through a paint strainer?? We sell the trimaco ones above and use em on customer's paint all the time. Even the smallest flakes of rust get caught.

There are ultrafine cone strainers for use with clear finishes. Paint will hardly seep through them.

Maybe coffee filters would work. Or a cotton t-shirt
 
I have plenty of pins. My chips contained both chips and tiny slivers when new. :(
I've flopped back and forth between pins/chips and have been unable to conclude that one is significantly better than the other for my applications, which do not include 22lr or 25acp.

I've tweaked my pin/chip removal process to the point that 99.99% are removed with my separator. Unclear that I'll ever obtain 100% consistent removal with just the separator, but pins seem to be easier to spot before my brass eventually makes it to the press. I've chalked it up to the nature of the beast when using stainless media, but continue to use it to this day.
 
They use them to make jackets for 22 caliber projectiles.

I wish i could find a set of the 22 savage HP dies for that for cheap. Like at an estate sale cheap. I dont shoot the 22SHP often but those .228 bullets are pesky! Very very few companies make em. At the rate i shoot it, the dies would never pay for their convenience.
 
Duh! I forgot that is what dad and I did in 1960 on a RCBS Swage-O-Matic.
 
I checked in tithe BLACKMON set up for turning 22lr cases in to 22 caliber projectiles, it was right around $800. Then your time and you need a mold for the lead incert.
Just for the set up cost I can buy 7,000 pieces of 22 caliber projectiles.
I do have probably a five gallon bucket full of 22 rimfire cases.
Some day maybe when I am totally retired and have extra time to kill I'll jump in.
 
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