Blade steel: Sandvik 13C26 vs. AUS-8 vs. Moly 8A vs. 440C vs. others

[Dr. Tad Hussein Winslow]

Looking at moderately mid-high stainless steels, particularly Sandvik 13C26, which is now more and more popular with Kershaw on several blades (including my "Needs Work" Kershaw, which is super sharp), but excluding expensive "super-premium" stuff like 154CM and S30V. Which of these:

1. Sharpens easier?

2. Holds an edge longer?

Mainly I'm concerned with question #2, but also question #1 - the relative ease or lack thereof in sharpening.

Is this 13C26 superior to 8A and 440C in edge-holding (hardness), or what? Why is Kershaw using it? Would you call it a "premium" stainless? It's certainly not as pricey as their S30V models. If it is harder/better edge-holder than the others in the same price range, then I assume the drawback is less toughness - inferior or roughly the same toughness as the competitors in the price range? Less resistant to chipping under hard use?

Thanks.

http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=KS1820

 

[The Tourist]

Sometimes the reason a cutler uses a certain alloy has nothing to do with your concerns or needs. While you're looking for edge retention, the maker is wondering just how bad his machinery is going to take a pounding.

And another important factor is the heat treat, or HT as you will see the abbreviation.

(I recently had a knife marked S30V which I suspect has a substandard HT. My personal observations continue.)

My advice is to get a knife you like as a complete package. If the edge of a knife is rock hard, but you dislike using the knife, where's the advantage.

For example, about four years ago I bought a 500 dollar knife from one of my favorite cutlers. He had told me that it would be shipped in S30V. When the knife arrived, the ricasso was clearly marked "BG-42."

I simply called to check. It turns out an intern used the wrong tang stamps to mark the blade.

Yeah, yeah, I know, I know. Lots of knife guys would have gone through the ceiling, prancing and gesticulating that they had been cheated and whining about the money. In researching other subtle features of the knife, I found that I had a one-in-five Franken-knife worth several hundred more than I paid for it to avid collectors.

My point is this, besides the money, the reason I bought the knife was that I like it.

The cutler makes superior products, utilizing Paul Bos as a HT specialist. Any knife that has seen this man's hand cuts like a laser-guided chainsaw. I'm privileged to own the beast.

I carried a Bushmaster/Camillus knock-off today that is a mirror image of a Buck 110.

The reason? I like the knife. Having said that, I know some real chronic owners who check the sharpness of an edge everytime they use it. It appears that owning the thing is a burden.

 

[JShirley]

Premium,

Like Tourist said, how the steel is treated makes a hellofa difference. Also, some blade steels that are known for making incredibly sharp blades aren't as tough and tend to chip easier. ZDP-189 comes to mind, though some have reported S30V chipping problems.

John

 

[SimpleIsGood229]

Honestly, I don't believe you're going to find much difference between 13C26, AUS-8, 440C, etc., especially if you use diamond stones. In my opinion, none of those will hold an edge through any kind of moderately hard use (lots of cardboard, for example).

Along with being a large factor is edge retention, a properly-executed micro bevel will ease sharpening a lot, since the sharpener is contacting a much smaller portion of steel.

Here's a good sharpening FAQ:
http://www.knifeart.com/sharfaqbyjoe.html

 

[Gordon]

"In my opinion, none of those will hold an edge through any kind of moderately hard use (lots of cardboard, for example)."
Amen to that! I have "stainless" Randalls and carbon O-1 ones. The Carbon steels sharpen nicely and stay Razor sharp about 3 times longer.For the sake of lazy maintence we have all these designer steels, the metalurgy of which are primarily designed for ease of manufacture and appearence!