It doesn't take special tools or jigs to swap a barrel. Check the stickies on arfcom on assembly, it's not gunsmith level work at all.
Two specific points in mind, if you plan on reusing any of the captive parts on the existing barrel, then you may have to remove the fixed pins on the front sight - gas block, which does get involved. This is why a lot of assemblers have moved to a low profile block that allows a lot of future rework. You may prefer that on a new barrel as it does simplify things greatly.
Second, the barrel nut torque instructions are a maximum not to be exceeded. Not a guide on what to achieve. With the upper clamped in a holder - I used vice jaw inserts on my 5" - the nut is torqued to a minimum of 30 foot pounds, which is just firm by a "hand feel." From there, you rotate it to the open tooth to pass the gas tube, that is all. You don't want the steel threads on the barrel nut to strip the aluminum threads on the nose of the upper. The max is 80 foot pounds, which is light for a lug nut. Don't be one.
If you do any work on the flash hider, the barrel itself must be clamped, not the upper. The stop pin on the barrel will rip out the slot in the nose. Not Good.
While it is nice to get an accurate barrel with headspaced bolt, the reality is that the .300 BO with 2MOA is only going out to 300m before it becomes a victim of the poor SD of the bullet and low power. It drops as badly as a .30-30 round nose. So, a barrel that delivers a 6" hit at 300 is more than adequate for the intent of the .30 caliber bullet. It's never going to be a prairie dog gun.