Blue Thread Locker

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James K2020

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I have several Uberti revolvers that I do like very much but a couple of them always loosen up after a session. Even after just 50 rounds of regular 38 special in one of the 357s, the trigger guard screws, and ejector rail screw will be pretty loose. Even the backstrap screws will back out some.

So, I bought some Permatex 24200 Blue Threadlocker because that seems to be the go-to remedy.
My question is: How much is the right amount? Do you use just a slight dab on the screw ends?
or more? Obviously, I want to remove the screws at some point and want to make sure I can without risking the infamous 'idiot scratch', snapping my Grace screwdriver (I've done that on another really difficult screw) or distorting the slots. Don't want to cause a bigger problem by doing the wrong thing.

Thanks for any opinions.
 
A small dab of RTV/silicone works well. Still adjustable and no worries about getting things 'stuck'.
 
I will reiterate what others have said. No matter what you use to hold the screws in place, make sure that you clean and degrease the screw and threaded holes. If you don't do this then nothing will hold.

I have used both blue and purple on small screws without any issues. Vibra-Tite is another good product. With any of the three, a little drop will do.

Fingernail polish, while it works, is not a preferred method.I would only use it as a quick fix until you can get things done correctly.
 
Start with less. . . you can always use more next time.

And next time you buy, buy VibraTite. It's not as solid a bond, but it's safer against fastener failure and comes in tiny pouches so it doesn't spoil.
 
All these recommendations for Vibra-Tite: which versions of their products are you all talking about? There seem to be quite a few types, of which only a few could be called a "thread-locker". Ideally, such a product would be anaerobic and NOT an adhesive. Thus the material would not be affected by the size of the packaging, and should have a shelf-life of almost forever (like Loctite). I have "known" Loctite for more than 30+ years, industrially. Way before they were bought by Henkel.
 
Blue is for 1/4" and larger bolts. Total and unnecessary overkill for little screws and can cause problems with removal. I started using fingernail polish long before loctite came on the market and have never has a screw loosen unless I loosen it on purpose. It has never given me a problem with removal either. I know, I'm stuck in a rut and won't change to modern methods but I am of the opinion if it works and works well there is no reason for change.
 
I add my voice to those saying purple is a better choice, for the application. Blue can result in buggered slots...

Interestingly enough, beeswax often works perfectly, and is historically correct as well. I'm not sure if I'd buy it just for that purpose, but if a fellow already has some laying around, it would be the first thing I'd try.
 
I add my voice to those saying purple is a better choice, for the application. Blue can result in buggered slots...

Interestingly enough, beeswax often works perfectly, and is historically correct as well. I'm not sure if I'd buy it just for that purpose, but if a fellow already has some laying around, it would be the first thing I'd try.

I have a pretty good supply of beeswax due to my leather work but never heard of using it as thread locker. I just learned something. :thumbup: I have plenty of nail polish though and won't change my methods. I should never run out as my wife is always changing colors and I can have her remnants.
 
I have a pretty good supply of beeswax due to my leather work but never heard of using it as thread locker. I just learned something. :thumbup: I have plenty of nail polish though and won't change my methods. I should never run out as my wife is always changing colors and I can have her remnants.

Beeswax is not as effective as either Loctite or nail polish, but I find that it often is good enough. Unless I am sure it is not appropriate for a particular application - I mean, I wouldn't install brake rotors with it - it usually is the first thing I try.
 
If you need to loosen locktite get ahold of mommas hairdryer if you can and heat up the area until you can tell it is good and hot don't worry you won't hurt anything but some of those dryers can get really hot the screw should back out fairly easy just a suggestion.
 
I’m not a huge fan of Permatex blue threadlocker and have found it has marginal holding capabilities compared to Loctite 242.

Nonetheless I have saturated threads with it and have found it to work and is easily reversible. It tends to work itself loose in the applications I have used it for in the past which the aforementioned Loctite has done fine on.
 
Agree on this. Permatex does not hold as well. 242 is good for ferrous. 243 is somewhat resistant to oil contamination but you should use a degreaser. I prefer this as it will work with both ferrous and non-ferrous and does not need a primer with non-ferrous. It is however a bit more expensive.

If you use the blue or weaker you can soften it with heat. I've not used it on a gun but on other metal assemblies and hot air or a soldering iron right on the screw can help get it apart. If you use red, good luck with that blow torch. ;)

I’m not a huge fan of Permatex blue threadlocker and have found it has marginal holding capabilities compared to Loctite 242.

Nonetheless I have saturated threads with it and have found it to work and is easily reversible. It tends to work itself loose in the applications I have used it for in the past which the aforementioned Loctite has done fine on.
 
I use Vibra-Tite VC-3 thread locker.It works well.It is applied to the thread and allowed to dry before installing the screw.
 
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