bore lube experiment

[teerex.otw]

I tried an odd experiment today based on a whim/idle curiosity.
Testing a recently rebuilt Daisy 1938b with some homemade parts and it was flinging curveballs all over with little puffs of oil mist. I cleaned the bore with alcohol and it did somewhat better. Just for the heck of it I cleaned it again and swabbed the bore a few times with a patch soaked with spray-on graphite lube and dried it out with an old hair dryer…maybe it’s just me, but when I tested it, after a few shots it suddenly started hitting p.o.a.
No idea how long the effect will last, or if it will continue working (I’ve always heard lube kills accuracy), but then have also never heard of anyone trying this stuff before…it’s slicker than bare steel and won’t “crowd up” like oil because it’s hard and dry…will continue testing.
Has anyone else ever tried this, and if so, what were your results ?

 

[JohnKSa]

Sounds like a good idea. I don't think it can hurt anything and if it's providing good results, why not?

 

[TerryCowger]

Have you tried powdered graphite?
Terry

 

[teerex.otw]

Hi Terry,
I thought about powdered, but couldn’t figure out a way to make it stick. The spray goes on liquid & dries quickly, spreads pretty easily with a saturated patch. It seems to hold up ok, I’m a couple hundred shots in, and the bore is still black, gun still seems to be hitting well.
I’ve got a feeling this is going to turn into another one of those evolutionary projects that never seems to end…
Next step: Parkerize a shot tube, then treat with graphite. The park. finish is a little porous, and would probably bond to the graphite really well. Also considering plating to use up some of the extra space betwixt bb and bore…both hard Chrome and electroless Nickel can be applied up to .005” thick.
Probably somewhere around .0025” would be right for R R shot tubes. Problem with that is finding a shop that would do it (affordably).
I gotta’ try and remember; baby steps.
….r

 

[TerryCowger]

Thats funny, all I have is powdered type .
I use a product called Greas-em by the Kadee company, it works really good for model RR parts.
Link below....
I would suggest (if you haven't already) to measure a bunch of BB's from different manufactures and check there size consistency before tightening the boar to much.
I've found even from the same package the size can vary enough to cause a hang up in the barrel or abutment.
I agree the closer every thing is the better and if you find BB's that are very consistent that's the ones to make the barrel fit then stick with that brand.
I have some stainless tubing that has potential but it needs to be sized to fit a BB. It's so hard I haven't found the proper stuff that will do the job.
I think if I ever get it sized and polished it will be a really good barrel....................?
Have fun and keep us posted on your results!
Terry

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1928810645...1291&msclkid=eb4640616fc716a953ae2380008b9342

 

[teerex.otw]

Good luck with the stainless, I’ve had to drill hard stainless before, and it is a sore-paw-grizzly-bear to work with…it would burn up bits even with a steady flow of coolant !
The bb’s I use most are the plain Daisy
(6000 for 12 bucks @ Wally world), a random sampling of 25 all came in at .171 to .173, nothing over or under.
parkerizing with graphite won’t reduce bore i.d. to anywhere near that. I’m just trying to take advantage of the slickness of graphite to (hopefully) cut down on the spin that’s giving me “boomerangs” above 300 fps.
Plating seems feasible, especially as they can now infuse particulate materials ranging from aluminum oxide and tungsten carbide (absolutely not!), to ceramic (probably not), to polymers including teflon (definite possibility !)
…bunch of homework to do on this.

 

[TerryCowger]

Your above my pay grade on that one, I know nothing about all that infusion, parkerizing stuff?
My plan with the stainless is to use diamond grinders to get the size then find a polishing compound to finish it. (yea I know not easy)
Most of my barrels have been carbon fiber, I can get a tighter fit but I still have to be careful what BB's I use or I'll get one stuck.
I also use Daisy Wally World BB's, except with my model 95 it likes Barra witch are a little on the large side.
Terry

 

[teerex.otw]

Terry,
I agree on the plating, I have a lot of studying to do before I move in that direction…Parkerizing, on the other hand is relatively simple, prefab chemical mixture added to distilled water, an old hotplate and stainless pan. After metal prep (steel only, doesn’t work with stainless or other metals) it takes about 5 to 10 minutes.
It bonds a thin layer of manganese or zinc to the surface, it comes out dull gray, and can be used as-is (a lot of military equipment is finished this way), or can be used as a base coat for paint, which sticks to it better than any primer I’ve ever seen. I use it on just about all of the small steel parts I build (levers, triggers, barrel and muzzle bands, hardware, tools, whatever…).
Do you have a good source for carbon fiber tubing ? The only one I know of that carries the correct size is ACP, and from what I’ve heard, shipping is usually about 2 or 3 times as much as the material.
Rex

 

[TerryCowger]

I know what ya mean about the ACP shipping, I got some before it went up, now shipping is more than the product.
I had an Amazon link saved that had 4.5mm but I see it's no longer any good? ya may do a search for 4.5mm jut to see what ya get?
I did find the product on Evil Bay (link below) but it's in that other country and there will probably be a loooooong wait for it?
Price is rite if it works ..........


https://www.ebay.com/itm/1243125224...YjZj0aTyKzlxrG30WeiXlPbNC+|tkp:Bk9SR-CQjM_FYQ