Brass conditions when shot through Glock factory barrels ?

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tercel89

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I am just wondering is the brass is really deformed after several reloads of the brass from these barrels. Is it weakened by resizing it over and over if there is a slight more buldging than say a S&W M&P pistol ?
We all know that Glock barrels are unsupported a little more than others. I have a Lone Wolf converstion barrel 40-9mm that I cant tell much difference in it versus the factory barrel .
I am talking about .45ACP and 9mm as far as reloads.
I keep seeing conflicting information and everyone gets hung up onthe barrel leading but again , I am wondering about the brass after it goes through the GLock barrel and chambers.
Any help and information is appreciated.
 
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Berry's Bullets site says you can shoot their plated bullets in a polygonal Glock barrel.

http://www.berrysmfg.com/faq-q11-c1-Can_I_shoot_your_plated_bullets_in_my_Glock_.aspx

Does that mean you can shoot others' plated bullets in the same barrel? I don't know.

I solved this problem by buying a traditional land-and-groove barrel since I shoot cast bullets. But i wouldn't be averse to shooting plated out of the original barrel. I'd shoot some and see what happened.
 
I have fired more than a quarter million plated bullets through factory Glock barrels without issue. No issues with "Glocked" brass either at least with 9mm.

I have had two lone wolf barrels and neither was as accurate as the factory Glock barrel.
 
Not worried about the bullets , I'm asking about the condition of the brass and the lifespan of the brass.
 
Well, with that said:

Since the brass could care less what kind of rifling the barrel has, or what kind of bullet you're shooting, then you must be asking how does brass hold up when fired in Glocks and is there any issue with "Glocked" brass or not.
 
I use a lone wolf barrel in my glock. Mostly because I was shooting cast lead bullets. These days I shoot plated or jacketed bullets so I might put the factory barrel back on . Not sure.

Glock bulge.
I run all of my 40 brass through a redding grx 80 die for full length sizing. It's mostly a precaution since I often use range brass or buy brass on line.
 
Sorry guys , I went back and re-worded my question to make it more clear.
 
Sorry guys , I went back and re-worded my question to make it more clear.
I believe that .40 S&W is the primary caliber where this is a problem.

If so, your 9mm and .45 should be fine.

That said, to me there's an issue in design when we have to be concerned with something like this.
 
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I bought a new 9mm about 6 months ago and struggled deciding whether it should be a Glock or not because I was going to shoot reloads exclusively in it.

I mostly decided against the Glock for other reasons than possible brass over-working. (I don't care for the looks of Glock...I figured I'd have to put money into upgrades such as a new trigger, etc.). The brass over-working "controversy" became the icing on the cake.

I've since heard so many stories of people putting <tons>-of-thousands-of-reloads through Glocks I *think* I'm concluding the danger has reached urban legend status. I think a definite downside of the internet is that, on many many topics, theoretical situations that actually have a very small chance of actually happening come across as real threats and probabilities. (We only have to look at reportings of "all the mass shootings" that causes people to conclude you can't walk down the streets of the US unless you're packing.)

So - I'm not providing actual science to help answer your question either way. But I wonder if this issue is getting blown out of proportion. (No pun intended. :))

I've loaded quite a lot of truly once-fired brass that came out of Glocks. (I have two friends that both shoot them and don't reload. So when we go to the range they gladly give me their brass. I invite them to the range a lot. LOL) When I reload their stuff the only way I can tell it came from them is the unusual looking primer strike. I don't think I've noticed anything else unusual about their brass. I know that's only a visual - and maybe that brass is getting worked more. But it sure looks normal.

OR
 
I dont shoot 40 in Glock or anything. Just my preference. Do shoot lots of 9mm and .45 in Glock, as far as they go it is a non issue.

Russellc
 
How you load your ammo will affect the brass life the most as it the hotter you
Load it the shorter the life
 
I load mine on the very low side of the powder chart. Just hot enough to be reliable and to cycle the slide .
 
You can find the solution to your bulging at: aplusvictoryproducts.com

Get the bulge out!!
 
In regards to the 9mm-Luger Std-P, +P, and +P+ ammunition I've experienced no resizing problems using the standard Dillon die inserts in the SDB. The reloaded ammunition is utilized in a multitude of pistols besides Glock.

As for the 45ACP Std-P and +P no problems resizing cartridge cases using the standard Dillon die inserts in the SDB also used in a multitude of pistols besides Glock.
 
We all know that Glock barrels are unsupported a little more than others
That used to be true in .45 and .40, but 9mms have always been good, at least from gen 2 on. I never had any trouble reloading cases from a 19,17L and a 34.
Gen 3 .40s and .45s are much improved in case head support.
 
I won't shoot my good brass in the factory barrel of my early production G20. If I shoot full power loads they get guppie belly. So 10mm brass life would be 1X in my case.
 
I had a Glock .40 back in the 90's and it really seemed to trash brass badly.
I have a recent production Glock 22 and the fired brass looks fine (I don't reload .40 S&W).

I have a late 90's Glock 33 in .357 SIG and I've never had any problems reloading the brass from it.

As others have said, it probably varies a lot by both caliber and when the weapon was made.

Older .40's seem to be the worst offenders.
 
You can find the solution to your bulging at: aplusvictoryproducts.com

Get the bulge out!!

That wouldn't help the op out at all as the machine won't do anything for 9mm.

I have roll sizing machines that size the base and rim but like I said above I don't have problems with "Glocked" 9mm brass. Range brass in general can have dinged up rims, that won't casegauge and a roll sizer or push through sizer will fix the problem.

The brass that comes out of our SMG's is a different story, it is bulged enough a normal size die won't size the base enough and again the roll sizer fixes this problem. A push through would be fine on a 45 but I don't know about 9mm as it is a tapered case. The dies on a roll sizer are machined with a matching taper. A push through sizer is just a hole so you would only be sizing the rim, of a tapered case.
 
Lee makes a "Bulge Buster" to deal with the problem, the ACP case is forced completely through the die and out the other side.
 
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I have fired more than a quarter million plated bullets through factory Glock barrels without issue. No issues with "Glocked" brass either at least with 9mm.

I have had two lone wolf barrels and neither was as accurate as the factory Glock barrel.
Amen brother! I've fired less that you, but I've been loading for the 40 since 1993. My gun of choice is a Glock Gen2 23 which has the infamous huuuge unsupported chamber area. I've never seen a bulge in any of my stuff (ten of thousands; not hundreds of thousands however) and I agree with what rc model said in another recent post about the bulge business being internet myth unless you're pushing the 40 trying to get 10mm performance.

The one time I did see the "Glock bulge" was circa 1990 in a S&W 1006. But that was traced back to substandard new Winchester brass.
 
Those bulge buster gizmos scare me. By the time a case is that bulged I don't see how it couldn't have been weakened. Just squeezing the bulge back into place doesn't repair the damage.
 
I load and shoot the Glock 31 in 357 SIG ... the 357 SIG is a higher pressure round than the .40 S&W(SAMMI) ...

I purchased some once fired brass from a police department that use SIG & S&W handguns(357 SIG)... there where a few out of a couple thousand that I threw away because of "bellied brass" even those were very slight ... my Glock 31 does not belly the brass.

I run all my brass through a Redding G-Rx die and then through a 357 SIG sizing die ... makes life real easy ...

I have seen some early Glock shot brass(40 S&W) that I would not load ... the newer gun are much better at not "bellying" brass...
 
I keep 3 .45 ACP plop testers on the loading bench and test every single pickup range brass, except for my own. These testers are a 1911 barrel, a L.E. Wilson cartridge gage, and a revolver cylinder. Quite often the brass will fit perfectly into the 1911 barrel but not the gage, and for sure not in the tight revolver cylinder.
 
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Trying to use it in a more precision chamber, like a revolver, is where the problem shows up dramatically.
Well just darn! I've been doing this wrong too and after over 40 years of shooting my .45 ACP stuff in revolvers the internet has caught me again.
 
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