Breaking in Saiga-12

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10thMtn

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I got my Saiga-12 last week, took it to the range after a cleaning, and put about 100 slugs and 00 buck through it. I set the gas valve correctly knowing I wasn't going to try to put through any target loads, and I went to town. I had both 2 3/4 and 3 inch shells, and some were magnums.

I noticed that I'd get failure to ejects on the lighter 2 3/4 shells. I never had problems with any magnums in 3. Seems it preferred high brass too.

Question is, did I get a "vodka special," or should I give it more time to break in? I unscrewed the valve, and I see three holes in the gas chamber as it should be. I cleaned them with a steel pick, and it seems to go through on all three accounts. I've heard it takes a few shells to break in, but I've also heard this thing should eat everything pretty good.

If you have experience, let me know so I know whether or not to send it to Cadiz right away.
 
Took mine about 500 rounds. I used low brass bird on the open setting.
Thought you DO NOT want to do that with high brass stuff. They have potential of damaging the recoil spring and such.

After 500 rounds give or take a few hundred she functioned just fine on the closed setting or restricted setting with everything I gave it. Also make sure your stock isn't wobbly or loose. I shot mine loose and it caused severe problems till I got it fixed.

Enjoy your shotgun, stay patent they are awesome.
 
I'm having a similar issue with my brand new S12. Tried low brass no. 7 bird shot on gas setting 1 and would get 1 FTF and 1 FTE out of 10 shells. I ran out of shells before I could test it on setting 2 but I think it might work find if adjusted. Will have to go back again and test that theory.


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Do yourself a favor and grab a reliability kit (5 position gas plug, booster puck, reduced power recoil spring) for about $50. You will save a considerable sum of frustration and money combined, considering all the FTE's you will experience in the lonnnng break-in period. Additionally, there are lots of bonuses of additional gas settings, including prolonging the life of your shotgun by tuning the gas to the load. I've done it both ways, and there's so much more reward (and much less shoulder-tenderizing!) in just grabbing a kit.
 
Do yourself a favor and grab a reliability kit (5 position gas plug, booster puck, reduced power recoil spring) for about $50.

Or you could start by polishing up the action for free (or a few dollars if you don't already have a stone, buffing wheel etc.). This does what a break in period is seeking to accomplish. Only much, much, more quickly. If it were mine I'd polish the top of the hammer, the bottom of the bolt carrier, the bolt carrier where it rides on the rails, and the rails. If you use googles you can find detailed pictures.

Smoothing up the bottom of the bolt also helps with reloads on a closed bolt.

Having a finger adjustable gas plug is nice for ease of changing it but it is not going to help much, if any, with reliability if the gun is under gassed on its OME wide open setting.
 
I bought AUTO plug from TAC-47 and it helped big time in eliminating fte in my s-12... I shoot low brass all the time without issues. some of the fte might be the mags... I had a few issues with that...the auto plug automatically gives the right amount of gas no matter what you shoot (after you adjust it which is easy to do... maybe 10-15 shots to verify setting)... I hope you got a good recoil pad as S-12 kicks pretty bad and can leave huge bruises on the shoulder.
 
Do yourself a favor and grab a reliability kit (5 position gas plug, booster puck, reduced power recoil spring)

Ditto to this. I did all three, though the reduced power recoil spring seemed to help the most. Mine used to FTF any type of birdshot, and now I can run the value pack Walmart shells all day long. It turned my Saiga from a pain, into something incredibly fun to shoot. Busting one clay pigeon after another with an MD arms drum is the most fun I've had in a long time.
 
Thanks for all the info. I'll give it all a good try. I've ordered a new plug from MD and am waiting for it to come. As for the buffing/polishing bit, a guy at the range has done this to about five Saiga's and offered to work on mine for free, so I think I'll trust him to do it since I'm getting similar advice here.

I'm going to wait before sending it in to Cadiz. Sounds like I've got some more work to do before trying to get it worked on.

I'd love to be able to shoot some Walmart specials through it, not only for the price of the shells but also less recoil. My shoulder was toast for a couple of days after that big test on day one. All those magnums and 3 inchers were brutal.
 
I hope you got a good recoil pad as S-12 kicks pretty bad and can leave huge bruises on the shoulder.

Although felt recoil is often related to issues like fit and shooting technique, I have always thought of the S12 as a very soft shooting gun. I can shoot a days worth of slug and 00 buck and it is less punishing than the same round count federal bulk bird shot through my pumps or break actions.
 
I agree, my 7.62 AK leaves way bigger bruises than the S12.


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Although felt recoil is often related to issues like fit and shooting technique, I have always thought of the S12 as a very soft shooting gun. I can shoot a days worth of slug and 00 buck and it is less punishing than the same round count federal bulk bird shot through my pumps or break actions.

I would agree under normal circumstances. I actually thought the same too when I was shooting slowly. However, I lit it up, trying to shoot as fast as I could after a few FTEs, and I got "popped" a few times in the process.

I also had my shoulder replaced a couple of years ago due to an injury, so my shotgunning strength (technique) isn't probably what it should/could be.
 
you should have 4 holes... there might be one covered up by the gas block... feel around up close to the front of the gas block with your pick for it. Puck and enhanced gas plug sure.. Reduced recoil springs are not cool unless you don't want to run high brass in it. Step 1 should be make sure it has the proper amount of holes.. If not its up to you to send it in for warranty, or fix that issue yourself. http://forum.saiga-12.com/ is a good place to look for info on anything you could imagine. And you will notice quickly that the guys that know what they are doing advise against the reduced power springs...
 
actually thought the same too when I was shooting slowly. However, I lit it up, trying to shoot as fast as I could after a few FTEs, and I got "popped" a few times in the process.

Honestly, it sounds like it may be more of a technique issue than a gun issue then. The gun is not recoiling any harder if you fire shots more rapidly. I would not be surprised if the way it is shouldered is changing as you fire rapidly.
 
Honestly, it sounds like it may be more of a technique issue than a gun issue then. The gun is not recoiling any harder if you fire shots more rapidly. I would not be surprised if the way it is shouldered is changing as you fire rapidly.

I actually contemplated this very point on different occasions. My shoulder hasn't fully recovered since replacement and likely won't get any stronger since it's been a couple of years. It could be a "me" issue. It's because of this shoulder that I've given up most high-power shooting, and I did go for the Saiga because I was told it recoiled much softer than the Benelli I have. Cycling slowly, I don't have issues. It's only when I pick it up the pace a bit.
 
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