Brushing necks, what exactly do you mean.

[AJC1]

After reading posts about neck lube, neck tension and their role in accuracy, I see a lot of references to brushing necks of cases. I have this gut feeling that people are doing different things and calling it the same thing. Are we using lube or is this a cleaning process or both.... I don't at all and I just might be missing something big!!!! Please describe exactly what your doing.

 

[Hugger-4641]

When I hear this, I'm thinking of a bronze brush inside the case to remove carbon donut. I haven't run into this problem yet and probably won't for sometime as it will probably be a while before case volume is affected enough for me to notice.

 

[AJC1]

When I hear this, I'm thinking of a bronze brush inside the case to remove carbon donut. I haven't run into this problem yet and probably won't for sometime as it will probably be a while before case volume is affected enough for me to notice.

I watched gunblue429 on YouTube use a nylon brush with sizing lube

 

[Kaldor]

I use Imperial dry lube when I run a mandrel, followed by a quick pass with a bronze then plastic brushes. Just makes sure the lube that is left in there is evenly distributed and removes any excess, and makes everything as consistent as possible.

 

[dartor]

I watched gunblue429 on YouTube use a nylon brush with sizing lube

Exactly what I do. I dry tumble the cases after sizing to remove the lube.

 

[JmacD]

I don't at all and I just might be missing something big!!!! Please describe exactly what your doing.

I’m glad you asked, because I had the same question I actually almost started a thread on the subject earlier this week or I guess it was last week I’m guessing it may tie into how the brass is prepped prior? My assumption is if it’s wet tumbled, there is lube involved. If it’s dry tumbled, it may just be a nylon brush to break up The carbon and use that for the “lube“?

 

[rb288]

Well, when I "brush" the necks, with a nylon brush, it is to clean any left over lube and any debris left from trimming the case.
I feel it just helps the bullet seat better in the case.

 

[Walkalong]

I'm thinking of a bronze brush inside the case to remove carbon donut. I haven't run into this problem yet

Me either, not in a case

 

[Walkalong]

I brush with nylon brushes. I used to do it by hand, but now I chuck up a brush in the little hobby lathe (A drill or drill press would work),
and run the case neck over the brush a couple of times at low speed. I use nitrided mandrels or carbide expanders with no lube.

Here is a case on the brush. I pick up a case, run the neck at least halfway over the brush, pull it off, do it again, then get another case.

 

[45/30-06OKIE]

I watched gunblue429 on YouTube use a nylon brush with sizing lube

I wanna say Forster makes a dry lube powder that you dip a brush in and set it on a holder and then you just press the neck if the case down on it?

This thing. I've been debating trying it out.

 

[Walkalong]

I tried wet lube, dry lubes, but gave it up and went to nitrided mandrels or carbide expanders.

 

[bigpower491]

I wanna say Forster makes a dry lube powder that you dip a brush in and set it on a holder and then you just press the neck if the case down on it?
View attachment 1194090
This thing. I've been debating trying it out.

I've got the Frankford Arsenal dry lube kit looks similar to this, comes with mica powder.
The only thing I really use it for is when I'm necking up cases, namingly for 338-06 from 30-06. I always use new unfired cases for this process.
When I first started reloading, I used to brush the necks out, but I never used any case lube on the brush. It really made no difference to me, as I always tumble fired before I load em back up

 

[Hugger-4641]

I wet tumble with pins, then use One Shot at a steep angle to get just a little bit in the case mouth. This is before resizing. I've never needed to do anything to help with bullet seating.

 

[Chief TC]

I use a brush of the same caliber to brush the inside of the neck on my 30-06. It seems to help with neck tension and good hold. My Lyman reloading manual says this is important and often not done by reloaders. However, I only do it with 30-06.

 

[AJC1]

Seems about like what I was thinking, no one is doing the same brushing..... but saying they brush.... how weird.

 

[Show Me]

I don't use a tumbler right now. Spray one shot. Size. Chuck up, spin in paper towel. Insert bronze neck brush then insert wore out brush with patch to wipe out neck . Trim. And chamfer. For me it means brush loose crud.

 

[AJC1]

I don't use a tumbler right now. Spray one shot. Size. Chuck up, spin in paper towel. Insert bronze neck brush then insert wore out brush with patch to wipe out neck . Trim. And chamfer. For me it means brush loose crud.

I imagined this is what the br guys were doing, while loading at the range, but no one has said and I've never shot short range br....

 

[nettlle]

I don't consider the bushing as cleaning but rather just a way to apply dry lube. I use Redding Dry Neck lube and a Q-Tip for that. walkalongs suggestion for nitrided or carbide expanders sounds like a good idea.

 

[GW Staar]

When I started back in 1972, I bought an RCBS Rockchucker "kit" that came with a lube pad, a deburr/chamfer tool, and two sizes of nylon neck brushes (.243 and .-308). Following instructions, we rolled rifle cases once on the pad then once on the necks using care NOT to touch the shoulder.....then rolled the brushes once on the pad, then ran them through the insides of the necks.

Later when the Trim Mates came out such brushes were supplied with them, and a reservoir of white drylube, dropped into the hole made for it on the Trimmate, and instructions were to dip case necks into the mica then push the cases up and down the now "turning brushes" to spread the lube evenly. Works very well....and I don't roll them in the lubepad any more.

 

[IWAC]

I wanna say Forster makes a dry lube powder that you dip a brush in and set it on a holder and then you just press the neck if the case down on it?
View attachment 1194090
This thing. I've been debating trying it out.

I used that gadget for years with no problems I could see. But recently, I read a government report detailing the harmful effects of Graphite, on metals which is in the Hornady, and probably other similar products, so I quit using it. Possibly belt and suspenders. Now, if I clean case interiors an RCBS brush and handle of proper size, dry is all I do. I do have a great respect for GunBlue 490 though, and suspect his method will be harmless.

 

[nettlle]

After gnawing on pencils for decades I have decided I am immune to the ill effects of graphite.

 

[GW Staar]

I used that gadget for years with no problems I could see. But recently, I read a government report detailing the harmful effects of Graphite, on metals which is in the Hornady, and probably other similar products, so I quit using it. Possibly belt and suspenders. Now, if I clean case interiors an RCBS brush and handle of proper size, dry is all I do. I do have a great respect for GunBlue 490 though, and suspect his method will be harmless.

Forster wasn't first, but that's still a good product. My testing of high lube products that are wet, gave me no better results than mica for neck interiors on machine gun brass. Prevents neck stretch just as well.

 

[armoredman]

I have never done any variation of this. I spray One Shot after tumbling, deprime/resize, then wipe the brass clean before turning it on the Frankford Arsenal trimmer. Interesting.

 

[OS/N]

Both.

Brush to remove carbon and any build up before neck sizing so the necks are more consistaint.

Very light water base lube so the bullets go in with the same force without pushing the neck or shoulder out of shape evey time. Makes the id sizing easier also reducing friction and risk of pulling neck up and out of shape.

Reloading for precision shooting takes precision loading steps. Everything you do reloading adds to or takes away from accuracy. Eliminating variation in your process is key to succes.

Then after you do all that the bullet hits a june bug on the way to the target and you scratch your head and wonder what happened -

 

[rdnktrkr]

I've been thinking about this also, I use the Lanolin/alcohol mix when sizing and some gets in the neck, Is this something I need to remove before brushing with a dry lube? How much of the neck do I need to insert into the lube before brushing? Is mica or graphite the better option? (I have both) Does a brass brush smooth out irregularities inside the neck, making it a worthwhile step or just use a nylon brush? Why does it have to be a dry lube?
This is all new to me and something I've never thought about doing while prepping my brass.