Bud's Model 10 Police Trade-in

[Old Fuff]

Judging from the ejector rod style and that of the stocks I would say the top revolver was most likely made during 1945 or '46. Remove the stocks and look at the inside of the panels to see if one or both are serial numbered to match that of the gun. The revolver’s serial number is stamped on the bottom of the butt, and likely has a letter “S” prefix.

If so, the “S” is to show that while it has the pre-war style “long” double-action which is hard sought after by some, it also has the post-war positive hammer block that makes it safe to carry with all six chambers loaded.

These are often called Transitional Pre-Model 10’s. They were only made during 1945 and ’46, and represent a bridge between the last of the pre-war revolvers and the new post-war ones with a “short” action that was introduced in 1946 and made forward to today.

I have no idea what you paid for it, but I suspect it's worth more then you think.

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Judging from the ejector rod style and that of the stocks I would say the top revolver was most likely made during 1945 or '46. Remove the stocks and look at the inside of the panels to see if one or both are serial numbered to match that of the gun. The revolver’s serial number is stamped on the bottom of the butt, and likely has a letter “S” prefix.

If so, the “S” is to show that while it has the pre-war style “long” double-action which is hard sought after by some, it also has the post-war positive hammer block that makes it safe to carry with all six chambers loaded.

These are often called Transitional Pre-Model 10’s. They were only made during 1945 and ’46, and represent a bridge between the last of the pre-war revolvers and the new post-war ones with a “short” action that was introduced in 1946 and made forward to today.

I have no idea what you paid for it, but I suspect it's worth more then you think.

Nope. SN is 6699XX. No prefix. Action is definitely the 'long' action. Stocks have a different number stamped on the inside of the right grip. Hammer block is the older style pinned to the side plate that swings out of the way when the hammer is cocked. I think it is a very late pre-war.

I belong to the Smith and Wesson Collectors Association, so I can get any Smith dated for free. Just haven't gotten around to this one. Will let you know when I do.

 

[skidder]

Yea, but see, the OP's gun will look like a new Model 10 when he gets it back.
And bear the S&W refinish stamp collectors will look for in the future and pay more for.

Your $125 bead-blast job?

Not so much!

rc

One problem with that RC.
S&W no longer exists. Saf-T-Hammer is all that is left.
The stamp may say S&W, but it will always be a Safe-T-Hammer finish. The once great work of S&W will never be resurrected, only forged.

 

[Old Fuff]

Nope. SN is 6699XX. No prefix. Action is definitely the 'long' action. Stocks have a different number stamped on the inside of the right grip. Hammer block is the older style pinned to the side plate that swings out of the way when the hammer is cocked. I think it is a very late pre-war.

Oh darn!!!

The picture is deceiving, in that the ejector rod doesn’t seem to have the large knob on the end. I would date a frame (not necessarily a revolver) with a 6,700xx serial number as around 1939/40. In the time period 1940-41 S&W didn't make a whole lot of K-frame/.38 Specials because they were filling orders from the U.K. and Commonwealth.

 

[Old Fuff]

The collector value of late 20th Century model 10 revolvers is not likely to be impressive, with the possible exception of rare or scarce variants in perfect or boxed condition. If I was considering refinishing one the last thing I'd take into consideration would be the highly questionable collector value.

I have in the past created my own version of a World War Two, Victory Model by bead-blasting and Parkerizing a "user/shooter." The result wasn't pretty, but it was inexpensive, durable, and can be done at home. I will say that the guns I refinished were in a lot worse shape then the ones I am seeing here.

 

[Guillermo]

I will say that the guns I refinished were in a lot worse shape then the ones I am seeing here

did their trigger guards survive?

 

[C5rider]

I'm waiting to see what she looks like with a new dress!

 

[Old Fuff]

I have seen a whole lot of guns that had been refinished at considerable cost, when doing so made no economic sense. Sometimes someone actually spent a lot of money to reduce the gun's previous value.

But economics and monetary value are not the only reason for doing something. Many other considerations can enter in. What does matter is that the gun owner understands all of the consequences of what they propose to do before they do it. That's what The High Road is for. Nothing less and nothing more.

 

[MrDig]

I just enrolled at Pine Technical College in the Gunsmithing Program. I plan on using my 269.00 Buds Guns Model 10 as a project gun for re-bluing and realize it's collector value is at best nominal. Until I get to that level in the program it's a shooter at the range and a HD gun and I'm not really that worried about it.
The last time I mentioned the collector Value on one of the Buds Guns Police trades I was chided quite well for any concern about the collector value in them. There really is none shoot it Reblue is Duracote it pink with purple Polka Dots if you want it really won't hurt the Collector Value, It might affect the Resale value but I didn't buy mine to sell it I bought it to shoot and use as an inexpensive learner gun in my Smithing Classes. I think I'll get my moneys worth out of it.

 

[Checkman]

Old Fuff

Judging from the ejector rod style and that of the stocks I would say the top revolver was most likely made during 1945 or '46. Remove the stocks and look at the inside of the panels to see if one or both are serial numbered to match that of the gun. The revolver’s serial number is stamped on the bottom of the butt, and likely has a letter “S” prefix.

If so, the “S” is to show that while it has the pre-war style “long” double-action which is hard sought after by some, it also has the post-war positive hammer block that makes it safe to carry with all six chambers loaded.

These are often called Transitional Pre-Model 10’s. They were only made during 1945 and ’46, and represent a bridge between the last of the pre-war revolvers and the new post-war ones with a “short” action that was introduced in 1946 and made forward to today.

I have no idea what you paid for it, but I suspect it's worth more then you think.

I have a post-war 5" barrel transitional M&P. Serial number is S964XXX. Picked it up for $300 in September of 2010. The owner wanted it out of the door since there was no interest in it, it was taking up shelf space and the owner knows I like revolvers. It was priced at $350 and he came down to $300. It was a sell right there. It's in very good shape and shoots very well. Very accurate with the classic 158 grain LRN at 20 yards. The M&P/Model 10 is a terrific revolver. I am a firm believer that the owner of the gun can do what he or she wants to do with it. As long as it's legal.

 

[Guillermo]

checkman

beautiful gun

the longer barrels are not in fashion but they sure are fun to shoot

enjoy your lovely gun

I am a firm believer that the owner of the gun can do what he or she wants to do with it. As long as it's legal.

I just reread this thread and did not see anyone suggest that the OP can not do that he wants with his gun.

 

[Sam1911]

[MOD TALK: Hey folks, if you feel the need to go negative, stop. Turn off the computer and think about it for a while. If you still want to argue or squabble, especially about what other people are saying about OTHER people's choices about OTHER PEOPLE's guns, go ahead and type out your response. But please don't turn the computer back on first. Then we won't have to take the time to delete 15 or 20 posts worth of pointless bickering. Thanks, we appreciate the help.]

 

[Guillermo]

yes sir

 

[Checkman]

I was responding to some of the posters who were bickering back and forth. Thanks. I like the 5" revolvers. I also have a pre-war 5" Heavy Duty.

 

[Guillermo]

Checkman has good taste.

The 5 and 6 inchers are great shooters, even though they are not "in style".

Once upon a time I would never consider a longer barrel as the 4" "looked right"

My old K-22 taught me that such a thought was dumb. Youza what a gun!

 

[HKGuns]

I should be receiving my pistol back very soon to do a before and after comparison as I promised. Just lifting this up a little and posting the grips that I'll soon be attaching to the refinished Model 10.

 

[Jaymo]

Fixed sight K frames are in my top 2 of favorite Smiths.
I'd get it reblued, too. Ex-cop gun with lots of holster wear isn't exactly a big collectible.

 

[tomrkba]

Very nice. I am going to pick up one of these 10's from Buds.

 

[sacnho]

My model 10-5. Ex police gun. I put the Hougue grip on but still have original. Great gun shoots awesome.

 

[BSA1]

I'm actually thinking of sending it to S&W for a re-blue. Part of me would like to see it returned to near its original glory. I realize value wise it makes little sense, but I noticed there is some light surface rust on the frame as well that really should be taken care of before it spreads or gets worse.

Smith and Wesson will reblue and true that Model 10 for $375. I think. Can someone verify that?

S&W will NOT reblue old Model 10 revolvers. I sent one back to the factory last week for repair and was told by the Rep that they will not refinish them due to possibility of the frame cracking when they removed the barrel. I expressed a lot of surprised about them having to remove the barrel for rebluing but the rep told me it was necessary for polishing of the parts.

But you are right on it, a refinish is turning that deal into having thrown away money.

I agree but something about these old gals say they deserve a new look.

 

[HKGuns]

Well they are re-bluing this 1976 vintage Model 10. Not sure what date yours was made but they didn't even bat an eye at doing mine.

 

[Old Fuff]

The problem I see with getting a factory refinish (if they will do one) is that for $375 (if that is the current charge) you can find ordinary model 10 revolvers with 99.9% of the original finish for that amount or less.

I have one with a 4" pencil barrel and a badly mottled finish - but no pits - that was apparently caused by a stay in a damp holster. The mechanical condition, bore and chambers are next to perfect, and it shoots fine. When I bought it I paid about $200 out-the-door. I'm in no hurry to get it refinished, but if I do it will be a bead-blast and Parkerize job done at home. In other words my very own, Old Fuff Victory Model. That will cost something like $25 to $50 cash money, and I can easily recover the money if I sell or trade it.

But when money is no object, go ahead and spend the cash, even if it's more then the gun itself is worth, but it's smart to consider all of your other options first.

 

[Checkman]

Guillermo

Checkman has good taste.
The 5 and 6 inchers are great shooters, even though they are not "in style".
Once upon a time I would never consider a longer barrel as the 4" "looked right"
My old K-22 taught me that such a thought was dumb. Youza what a gun!

I used to be same way. I've changed my mind over the past few years. The 5" and 6" revolvers are great shooters.

 

[Guillermo]

The 5" and 6" revolvers are great shooters.

until I get my .22 can and an AR upper...my squirrel rifle is my K22

 

[788Ham]

Sure will be glad when you post those finished rebluing pics HK ! One of a kind, you're deserving!