Built a SIG STGW57!

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barnbwt

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I'm tellin' the world! My first parts kit is now an actual, factual, functioning semi-auto rifle :cool:. Got back from the test fire earlier today and uploaded some footage and pictures of the project so far. Gotta say, as ugly and oddly proportioned as the gun was, my groups were about 1/4 the size they normally are with iron sights, and the gun was an absolute pussy cat to shoot despite the stout 7.5x55 chambering. The double shoulder in the chamber really dampens out the shock of the bolt returning to battery, too, and is a feature I think would be very useful in all necked cartridge semiautos; too bad it makes the brass look weird and scary to reloaders :D

My normal groups with irons are 4"x4" at 50yds (don't judge me; I don't practice ever, nor try very hard, and my vision ain't what it once was :p) with my K31, VZ58, FN49, and all others I've tried. With this rifle, they were <1" tall and 4" wide groups; very cool, and I think some of the horizontal spread is do to some side-to-side wobble in the rear sight (no vertical play). All rounds ejected properly, and the brass, surprisingly, was in very good shape for a roller-delayed design. The cases eject out the side only 4-5ft, spinning rapidly like tops on the dirt (has to do with the odd ejector mechanism), and show no visible shoulder set back, and the fluting is merely smudges on the brass (it disappears when rubbed). There is a dent from the ejection port halfway up the sides of the cases, but it's only 1/8" long, and totally harmless once I polish that edge some more (it's a bit square right now, so the creases are scored more than I'd care to tolerate)

The bolt draw weight is still north of fifteen pounds, pretty heavy for a semi rifle, but getting smoother the more I use it (was 35lbs after initial welding :D) with zero binding. Because of the weight and the ejector design, manually ejecting rounds is not very authoritative, and they must be shaken or plucked out of the gun.

Next step is to get the 63rnd DTM drum conversion I'm working on operational for some real fun, and get the receiver pieces painted. I'm thinking some semi-gloss black paint will go real well with the same on the aluminum shroud tube and plastic grips. I will also be working on a new set of furniture to hopefully alleviate some of the oddity, maybe something like this;
dmr1.jpg
The Swiss, you see, like to compete in matches even more than we do, and customize the heck out of milsurp STGWs instead of AR15s since they only run about 300$ over there and are fantastically accurate.

Youtube of a string of fire through the Uber-mensch
P3040047.jpg
DTM drum/tower modification loosely assembled :evil:. The drum sits directly below the carry handle and is shorter than the 24rnd box mags, so from an LMG perspective, it actually makes more sense than the original design :D

In summary, I am very pleasantly surprised how solid a shooter this turned out, especially considering I've never had the greatest confidence in the whole "roller delayed blowback" concept to not kaboom on me. Oh, and yes, after only 20 shots, the gun is filthy filthy dirty :D

TCB
 
Thats pretty cool!
There's no better way to leave a range than with a dirty gun! Congrats on a nice build!

Now if we can only get AR-15's for only $300:)
 
"Now if we can only get AR-15's for only $300"
Contact your senator, and tell them it's stupid for the .gov to shred our rifles instead of chopping them into a couple pieces and selling the parts for 3/4 of the rifle's worth :rolleyes: (you'd think 'ol Rand or Ryan could at least get on board with that, and no ATF rule changes would be needed)

TCB
 
I hope to get mine built soon, but I'm stuck while searching for a 7.5mm barrel. It's common to convert them to .308 but I don't want to go that path.

Was yours an older kit with a good barrel, or did you have to track one down?
 
Nope, I found my barrel six months after the kit on GB for a screamin' price of *400$ (and I'd been looking during that time) and got lucky on the headspace/bolt gap. It's toward the high end of what's allowable, but good enough, and only a hair past hand-tightened at the factory 40 ft-lbs (I'll put some thread locker on like they did for more extended use, but it remained snug for these 20 shots at least). I also have a 308 barrel I need to try out just to see if it'll work without any other mods (wouldn't that be wonderful? that obviously means it won't work out :D) for another day.

Your best bet would be to get a 308 barrel and either 1) trade it for someone's 7.5 when they try to convert and can't find NATO barrels, or 2) ream it out for 7.5 Swiss and find someone with and EDM or other means who can flute the chamber for you (or just use greased ammo and a very clean/polished chamber). If you go the re-chambering route, I would highly suggest incorporating the second shoulder feature.

TCB

*400$ was what the last one I saw went for, but they seem far beyond that price these days. There were only a hundred or so kits imported as best I can tell, and most of them have no barrels. The primary source for original barrels these days, is from owners of imported rifles who either tire of GP11 (how?) or irreparably damage their receivers and part out the remnants.
 
My understanding is that the bolt face and rollers need to be modified to work with the .308, and that's non-reversible.
I have a number of Swiss rifles, so really want to keep it original. Guess I'll keep keeping my eyes open.

Couldn't find reamers anywhere.
 
"My understanding is that the bolt face and rollers need to be modified to work with the .308, and that's non-reversible."

My understanding as well (bolt face needs to be narrowed and the camming piece needs to be trimmed to a different angle), but I'm still a bit skeptical just because the cartridges are so similar. However, 308 maxes at 62ksi, whereas Swiss only goes as high as 55ksi, so its plausible that the initial bolt thrust may be higher, which would make that chambering hazardous with the mods. But seeing how little deformation occurs with the chambering as is, it makes me wonder if there's enough margin to cover the difference (or if the new barrel can be headspaced to maximize the roller engagement and then gradually walk it back until the gun cycles).

I'd roll my own reamer if I were you, especially since you for sure will not find a factory one with the second shoulder (so you'd have to modify the expensive factory one anyway)

TCB
 
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