Can You Remove Engraving

My SS card says right on it "for social security and tax purposes - not for identification".

Then again, it was issued in the 50's. The replacement my wife got a few years back looks totally different and doesn't have that on it.

When You and I got our cards ,they weren't peddling any old # , as they were issued State specific per Era or year and SS wasn't a social welfare benefit ,as it is Now !.
SS started out as a working persons supplemental retirement program. Aug. 1934 and amended periodically there after .
Certain unmentionable less than stellar people ,who also stole SS funds to be placed into the General fund ,so as to " PAY " for the undeclared VN war that congress wouldn't fund . That was the beginning of the downfall of citizen SS participation and later as we ALL realized in Horror , were Dbl; Taxed on those retirement benefits to boot . Below a small exert ,which is laughable .

To finance this substantial benefit increase and other program improvements, the 1950 amendments increased the contribution and benefit base (the amount of annual wages subject to Social Security taxes and creditable for benefits) from $3,000 to $3,600 and provided a revised schedule of gradually increasing tax rates for employers, employees, and the newly covered self-employed. The new law also repealed a never-used provision which authorized appropriations to the program from general revenues if they were needed. These changes made clear the Congress' rejection of Federal general revenues as a major source of Social Security financing and underscored its view that Social Security should be self-supporting in both the short range and the long range.

https://www.ssa.gov/history/50mm2.html


Yet when the Gov. wanted illegal monies they had NO problem STEALING SS monies from the then Solvent SS system . Now the 1 St. thing they threaten us with is , withholding SS benefits on Gov. shut downs . Why aren't Welfare recipients or Gov. employees threatened :fire:
 
My SS card says right on it "for social security and tax purposes - not for identification".

Then again, it was issued in the 50's. The replacement my wife got a few years back looks totally different and doesn't have that on it.

And guess what my student ID in college was back in the early to mid-70s. That's when they still said "no ID". o_O :fire:
 
I had an SKB semi-auto shotgun years ago that had a partial driver license number etched into the barrel from its prior owner. Funny part is the number was one digit short for a CA DL.

I also have a S&W Model 36 3” that the prior owner tried to buff out the CAI import mark under the cylinder. It didn’t work too well, but I had it reblued so it looks semi-respectable.

IMG_1504.jpeg

As for adding a SS or DL number to an item, two things that may get folks to rethink how it works. (A bit of drift here!)

First, there is an OAN section when stolen property is entered into NCIC, which stands for Owner Applied Number. Whatever number you put on your item can be used to identify it and the victim, IF you report it and IF the number is entered correctly. (You are dealing with humans!) Best part is the item doesn’t even need a serial number, or if it does have one, you don’t need to know the serial number if you have an OAN engraved.

Second, a DL number is an OAN that also allows for you to be identified as a victim if it is engraved on stuff found in the possession of a mope even if it hadn’t been reported stolen yet. Run the DL number on the item, locate a contact number for the driver, call you up and ID your property.

I solved several burglaries stopping meth heads with DL numbers engraved on tools in their cars. It works so well every tool, wrench and socket I own has my DL number on it.

Don’t discount the power of an observant copper. Around 2002, I stopped a couple of mopes for a DUI investigation who had a bunch of property in the back seat, a shotgun between the seats and a whole bunch of jewelry all over the floor of their car. I arrested the driver for dui and both for carrying a loaded firearm in the car and investigation of possessing stolen property. I just knew it was stolen, I had no idea from whom.

I had zero luck with the gun or stereo serial numbers. A buddy who worked with me, who used to be a jeweler, popped into the property room and I told him I was out of ideas. He suggested I look for any engraving in the rings.

There were 15-20 of them along with ear rings and a couple of watches. I found a full name inside a class ring from a neighboring area HS, I guessed her age by the graduation date, dispatch found a local match and called a number in the system. Phone was answered by a sheriff Detective working a brutal home invasion/gang rape of the 20 year old who owned the ring that had recently happened in the county area just South-West of the city I worked in. These guys did the crime, drank the booze they stole and got drunk enough to get pulled over swerving down the road. Pure dumb luck we crossed paths that night, but it was solved.

I was fortunate Jim was working that night, I never would have thought about checking the insides of rings and getting that much info. Anything you can do to make it easier to ID your property is not a bad idea, it really does work. (But with serial numbers on them, I don’t engrave my guns either!)

Stay safe.
 
1. Sandpaper
2. Dremel
3. Acid bath
4. Send it to Turnbull
5. Angle grinder
6. Duct tape
7. Massive Hogue rubber grips
8. File notches over the engraving for all the bodies you have on that gun
9. Krylon the entire gun in a camo pattern
10. JB Weld

Seriously, any decent gunsmith could grind that area flat. The problem will be the nickel plate. If it were my gun, I would look into having MY NAME engraved over the previous owners engraving.
I have a customer that had that done with a S&W "Ladysmith" ......he didn't like the "Ladysmith" on the sideplate and had it engraved with scrollwork that hid the "Ladysmith". Similar to having your "I ❤️ Wanda" tattoo corrected to your new wife's name.
Just like some people cover up an unwanted tattoo with new art, dogtown Tom has the right idea, engrave over it with your name or new art.
 
Are you sure? If I rob a bank and drop a piece of paper with my social security number, police will be completely baffled and can't find me?



I heard the same thing, yet they ask for it on a 4473, so there must be some record of social security number in NICS. Every time I have applied for a loan or opened a bank account, I've had to provide my social security number.

I wouldn't engrave anything on a gun. It has a serial number, so I could report it stolen, and my understanding is the serial number could be entered into NCIC. And engraving a number on it probably reduces the value, which defeats the purpose.

I probably wouldn't engrave a social security number or DL# on anything anymore. It was a great idea in the 80s, but back then you couldn't apply for a credit card over the internet.
I've never put my SS# on a 4473. I just leave it blank. I know there are only a couple other people with my name in the entire US.
 
I have not tried this with anything plated, but I have burnished stamped letters off of barrels. I wonder if it would work on the plated grip strap? I guess it depends on how well bonded the plating is. And engraving is different than stamping. Still, might be worth a thought.

Kevin
 
Doesn't anyone remember what files are used for? That would be the simplest and least expensive option. Cover with the suggested T-grip or even better wrap around grips. Want to be less intrusive and get only the engraving. A Foredom or Dremel tool with a small, narrow stone would accomplish that.
 
I had an SKB semi-auto shotgun years ago that had a partial driver license number etched into the barrel from its prior owner. Funny part is the number was one digit short for a CA DL.

I also have a S&W Model 36 3” that the prior owner tried to buff out the CAI import mark under the cylinder. It didn’t work too well, but I had it reblued so it looks semi-respectable.

View attachment 1172769

As for adding a SS or DL number to an item, two things that may get folks to rethink how it works. (A bit of drift here!)

First, there is an OAN section when stolen property is entered into NCIC, which stands for Owner Applied Number. Whatever number you put on your item can be used to identify it and the victim, IF you report it and IF the number is entered correctly. (You are dealing with humans!) Best part is the item doesn’t even need a serial number, or if it does have one, you don’t need to know the serial number if you have an OAN engraved.

Second, a DL number is an OAN that also allows for you to be identified as a victim if it is engraved on stuff found in the possession of a mope even if it hadn’t been reported stolen yet. Run the DL number on the item, locate a contact number for the driver, call you up and ID your property.

I solved several burglaries stopping meth heads with DL numbers engraved on tools in their cars. It works so well every tool, wrench and socket I own has my DL number on it.

Don’t discount the power of an observant copper. Around 2002, I stopped a couple of mopes for a DUI investigation who had a bunch of property in the back seat, a shotgun between the seats and a whole bunch of jewelry all over the floor of their car. I arrested the driver for dui and both for carrying a loaded firearm in the car and investigation of possessing stolen property. I just knew it was stolen, I had no idea from whom.

I had zero luck with the gun or stereo serial numbers. A buddy who worked with me, who used to be a jeweler, popped into the property room and I told him I was out of ideas. He suggested I look for any engraving in the rings.

There were 15-20 of them along with ear rings and a couple of watches. I found a full name inside a class ring from a neighboring area HS, I guessed her age by the graduation date, dispatch found a local match and called a number in the system. Phone was answered by a sheriff Detective working a brutal home invasion/gang rape of the 20 year old who owned the ring that had recently happened in the county area just South-West of the city I worked in. These guys did the crime, drank the booze they stole and got drunk enough to get pulled over swerving down the road. Pure dumb luck we crossed paths that night, but it was solved.

I was fortunate Jim was working that night, I never would have thought about checking the insides of rings and getting that much info. Anything you can do to make it easier to ID your property is not a bad idea, it really does work. (But with serial numbers on them, I don’t engrave my guns either!)

Stay safe.

My uncle's shop was burglarized in the 80s. That weekend he and my dad located his tools 80 miles away at the Thunderbird flea market in Fort Lauderdale. Without a SSN or DL# on his tools, he had no way to prove they were his. Fortunately, the cop believed him, threatened the vendor with an arrest, and the vendor handed the tools over.

My dad was a mechanic with about $80K or $100K worth of tools. This prompted him to engrave his name and SSN on every tool he owned. Not just the air tools, but every wrench, socket, pair of pliers. Just about everything, like you did.

The quandary we found ourselves in a couple of years ago when we shut down his shop was what to do with the tools. The fear was that in the wrong hands, the social security number could be used to access his accounts or open a loan in his name.
 
My uncle's shop was burglarized in the 80s. That weekend he and my dad located his tools 80 miles away at the Thunderbird flea market in Fort Lauderdale. Without a SSN or DL# on his tools, he had no way to prove they were his. Fortunately, the cop believed him, threatened the vendor with an arrest, and the vendor handed the tools over.

My dad was a mechanic with about $80K or $100K worth of tools. This prompted him to engrave his name and SSN on every tool he owned. Not just the air tools, but every wrench, socket, pair of pliers. Just about everything, like you did.

The quandary we found ourselves in a couple of years ago when we shut down his shop was what to do with the tools. The fear was that in the wrong hands, the social security number could be used to access his accounts or open a loan in his name.
Ya. SSN isn’t the best idea anymore. An ID, DL or other official-type number that you can remember, or easily identifies you, is probably the way to go.

Stay safe.
 
This is a pretty long thread so I have not read all of the replies.

Since it is nickel plated an option would be to overplate the nickel on the grip frame area until it is thick enough to be able to abrade( fine) away the engraving and repolish the area to match the rest of the finish. It would still bethere but the damage qould be hidden by nickel metal fill.
 
I don't know if someone suggested that flea market specifically. A lot of stuff gets stolen from our area and fenced in South Florida. That was one of the largest flea markets in South Florida. Probably the biggest. It's called the Swap Shop now.
 
I don't know if someone suggested that flea market specifically. A lot of stuff gets stolen from our area and fenced in South Florida. That was one of the largest flea markets in South Florida. Probably the biggest. It's called the Swap Shop now.
There's always one like that, back in my home town we had one that was referred to as the "Swipe Meet".
 
For those looking for an aluminum grip adaptor other than Tyler for K or L frames, this company has them, in stock and priced right.

 
It can be tig welded up but needs to have the serrations machined back in. Ask S&W if they would do it. I can't imagine a gunsmith setting up a milling machine to do that. The set-up time would cost $$$$.
 
It can be tig welded up but needs to have the serrations machined back in. Ask S&W if they would do it. I can't imagine a gunsmith setting up a milling machine to do that. The set-up time would cost $$$$.
I do not believe the Model 49 has the serrations cut into the fore grip. That is usually reserv for revolvers with target sights. I am not overly familiar with J frames but believe that is standard throughout the frame sizes.

Kevin
 
Nickel plating is thin to start. I’m surprised that the SSN didn’t start spaulding or allow rust. The entire revolver will have to be re-plated, which I think has been implied.

Manufactured From ‘59 to ‘96.


Blue Book for 100% is $450 + &25 for nickel finish. 90% is down to $250 +$25. How much deduction for the SSN, I have no idea.
 
I've got an old crusty Crosman 760 that the previous owner had a driver's license number engraved on. I have a rifle I bought many yrs ago that whoever the yoyo was that owned it engraved a DL on the underside of the barrel.
I have this neat machine here at the shop called a laser welder. I've been kicking around the idea of trying to fill in the engraving on the 760 and then bench it back. I use this machine on molds where I have a textured surface and need to add material to the parting line next to the texture. It's very low heat, well, the heat is concentrated in a very tiny spot to prevent the steel from discolouration. Believe it or not, that discolored steel will show up on the plastic part surface.
The combination of low heat signature and being able to get the material into those tiny scratches just might work and if it's been benched good, may not ever be noticeable. I've got bluing tanks, I just might have to give that a try, seeing this thread.
 
I'm curious. How did they know to go to that flea market?
I would bet that South Florida has hundreds of flea markets.
The Fort Lauderdale Swap Shop is a 14-screen drive-in movie theater that is also the largest daily flea market in the world. They even had a daily circus for twenty years.
My father had a dealer space there off and on in the early to late 1970s.
In the 80s and 90s, I used to go there hunting collectibles. Daily dealers without permanent spaces would start setting up about 2 AM. You needed a flashlight to see and shop with.
On occasion, I would actually cover each aisle and booth, looking for what I collected. It would take twelve hours from 3AM to 3PM. You would usually only try that in December or January when the South Florida heat was bearable.

I had a friend that was an undercover deputy sheriff that worked the market. He had a million stories about what went on there.
 
OP is not clear if the SS number was actually engraved or, most likely, scratched in with an electric pencil.
Over the years, I've been able to mostly get rid of electric pencil jobs with a dremel and/or a drill with a slightly bent
dremel attachment shaft. Using the power of the dremel to speed up the job of laying over most of the metal
and then finishing it by hand with a variety of rounded punches has worked for me to blend
the engraving un-readable to my satisfaction.

Nickle?, I'll pass on it.

JT
 
Back
Top