Cartridges for a handloading beginner?

[38-45 Special]

Hey guys, got another question. With this whole quarantine going on I'm pretty much stuck at home with nothing better to do but come up with some questions. (Hence why this is my 3rd post in less than a week)

Anyway, for the last couple of years I've been contemplating getting into handloading. I've done my homework, read manuals/shooting handbooks, etc. so I have some pretty decent knowledge on how to at least get started. However, I understand that with all the shortages and everything it may be a little while before I CAN start. I'm just curious as to which cartridges you guys would recommend to start off with. I've heard from countless people that .38 Special is one of (if not) the best "starting" cartridge for newbie handloaders.

 

[Ramone]

For pistol, I like .45ACP.

It's common, it's forgiving, and the short/wide case is easy to load and check.

 

[TonyAngel]

Almost anything with a straight wall. .45 is easiest, 9mm likely safest. If you double dump powder will go everywhere and you’ll see it. Lol

 

[.308 Norma]

I've heard from countless people that .38 Special is one of (if not) the best "starting" cartridge for newbie handloaders.

Another vote from me for the 38 Special. Although, I myself started with a .357. Same thing, just a little longer, and when I started out, I loaded my .357s "light" anyway.

 

[Deus Machina]

.45 ACP is indeed an easy one.
9mm is a little more challenging, but what I started with; it's easy enough if you're attentive.
.38 Special would definitely be my recommendation. Or .357, loaded to powderpuff.
IIRC, Trail Boss is a good powder to start with in the right applications. A double load of Bullseye can go unnoticed; Trail Boss is clearly visible and will expose a double charge by spilling over and making a mess.

 

[Ks5shooter]

Congrats on reloading your own decision. THR is your best resource for info!!

 

[BBarn]

Though I started loading with 38 Special, I second the suggestion for 45 Auto as a great cartridge to start reloading. Most loads for the 38 Special and 45 Colt have a low case fill that's hard to see and verify easily. The 9mm has good case fill but pressures can climb quickly if the bullet is seated too deep. The Magnum revolver cartridges aren't too bad of a choice if using the slower powders that provide good case fill.

Most loads for rifle cartridges have good case fill and are easy to visually verify, though the 22 calibers cases can be a bit harder to see into. The challenge with rimless bottleneck rifle cartridges is mostly related to proper case sizing.

 

[BullRunBear]

I suggest 38 special also. A lot of us started out with that caliber and learned the reloading ropes with it. Brass is cheap, uses small amounts of powder, and very forgiving.

Jeff

 

[redneck2]

As noted, straight wall pistol case and slower powder

 

[robert4301]

Agree that 38 spc is a great way to begin reloading. Same with nearly any straight wall revolver cartridge. Autoloader cartridges are more picky about component selection. They also demand somewhat more attention to dimensions, especially case tension on the bullets.

 

[Obturation]

.357 magnum is a great place to start. I've been handloading for a few years but I still don't produce any loads that a double or triple charge would even fit in. I like h110/w296 , 2400, trailboss and still mainly load straight walled magnums and use trailboss for plinkers in any of those chamberings too. -don't compress trailboss-
You can get as fancy as you want but starting out with revolver rounds is best. They don't have to feed through a magazine, length is less crucial , light starting loads don't need to cycle an action and brass lasts a long time.

 

[Double_J]

I started with .45 acp many years ago. Make sure you use a more forgiving powder, double charges are NOT fun. Take your time and learn the basics.

 

[George P]

Sorry I disagree on 357 for a first; the 38spl is a lot more forgiving.IMO.

 

[Ohen Cepel]

I like .38 especially if you're putting it into a .357 so a heavy charge won't destroy things. Also, a revolver is more forgiving as there is no slide to move. Can go silly light or heavy in a revolver and not damage things, nor cause malfunctions.

 

[HB]

38 because its easy. Also youll see the biggest cost savings over factory (except maybe 45-70 and similar).

My first reloads were 38 special wadcutters.

 

[ApacheCoTodd]

I started with .41 and found it quite straight forward.

Next, I moved to .38/.357.

Rimmed, straight-wallled and myriad potential loadings to keep your mind occupied.

The guns are generally inexpensive and your loads have nothing for the most part to do with cycling and magazines and their feeding is not an issue.

You can load down to the lightest responsible wadcutter and up to a potent hunting round.


Also, VERY easy to cast projectiles for if you go in that natural, recreational reloading direction.

Todd.

 

[WrongHanded]

I'd say .357 Mag with a slow burning powder that has a safe wide pressure range, like Alliant 2400. And 158gr bullets with either a crimp groove or a cannelure (which most .357 projectiles have).

The power choice means you can't double charge, but you can download safely. And if you seat the bullet to the crimp groove (or cannelure), you won't have the extra issue of an OverAll Length to worry about.

After that, .45 ACP seems like a good first semi-auto cartridge.

 

[lysanderxiii]

Personally, not pistols. Too easy to double charge most of them...

I feel it is best to establish a good routine with near full rifle cartridges that let you know if you screw up and try to double charge.

 

[BCC1]

Well, I’d suggest 9mm. I started reloading this year and that was my choice. I load around 500 rounds a week. 9mm is a common caliber, easy to do and in my case, all my competition guns are and will be 9mm, so it would be what I shoot most.

The only downside, bargain 9mm factory ammo is cheap.

 

[Trey Veston]

You may be going about it backwards...

I started just a few years ago when I bought a Ruger SBH Bisley in .45 Colt. I wanted "bear" loads for it using hardcast bullets that I cast myself. At the same time, I bought a Glock 10mm and the cost of ammo was ridiculous, so I started reloading for it as well.

You should identify a need for reloading rather than start reloading for a cartridge just because it is the easiest. I started reloading for 9mm last, because it was so cheap and my most accurate handloads were marginally more accurate than the cheap stuff at Walmart. Now that I can't even find 9mm within 50 miles, I load for it.

I've not found any degree of difficulty between any of the pistol cartridges that I load. If there is a difference, 9mm are the most difficult because they are the smallest for my fat fingers to manipulate.

 

[.38 Special]

I will gently disagree with the suggestions for autopistol cartridges. Autos are slightly more demanding of proper dimensions.

I think the .38 Special is indeed a great place to start. The .44 Special is as good, though of course it is less likely that the OP has a gun chambered for it! And the .45 Colt is wonderful as well.

I very much wish that Trail Boss had been available when I started. It is hard to make a dangerous cartridge with it, and it is ideal for light loads in larger cases, like the Colt.

Regardless, if the OP does get started, I hope he will keep us informed of his progress!

 

[MeanBean]

I'd have to say 10mm. It's initially why I started reloading. Factory ammo is kind of elusive and expensive. It is a straight wall cartridge and there are so many mild load "recipes" that can mimic anemic factory loads that as long as you buy bullets in bulk and find your brass it's very economical.
As you get familiar with reloading and what your weapon likes and can handle, it's easy to warm up your loads.

That being said, I do reload more 9mm than 10mm these days. My Pro 1000 is set up perfect for 4.2 grains of Bullseye and 124 grain RMR FMJs that's it's by far the easiest currently. It did require lots of fiddling with the dies and the press itself to get that way, so I wouldn't call it the easiest out of the gate.

I'm hoping 38 super can get that way too soon.

 

[Dudedog]

9mm likely safest. If you double dump powder will go everywhere and you’ll see it.

Sorry, I have to disagree.

9mm was my first pistol round but I would not say it is the safest or that you can't double charge it.
Yes some powders will overflow but say for example a double of Titegroup (which would be bad news) will fit.

9mm is a fairly high pressure pistol round so is more finicky OAL wise than say .38 Special.
Lots of room in a .38 case for TO MUCH powder, double/triple charges fit, but not as OAL sensitive as 9mm.

What to start with depends on what calibers you own,
I would say start with whichever one you shoot the most.

All can be done safely, some are less tolerant of mistakes/errors,
but none are safe if you don't pay attention, don't follow safe loading practices, or decide that load "X" is safe even though it is quite a bit over a MAX listed load because Bubba posted it and said it was safe.

 

[WestKentucky]

Give us options on what calibers you shoot.

the generally best thing to learn on is a medium or large sized cartridge. Little bullets make for painful loading sessions as the bullets are hard to grab and sometimes a pain to get going. I like 38, but I don’t normally recommend it for new loaders. I like a case that is short and fat along with a bulky powder so that if you get a bad powder charge then it’s easier to see. 45 acp is a great learning round. 40sw is not bad. 9mm is generally good because with most powders the case is full enough to notice a difference. 380 is OK. Below that your getting into 32 caliber and those get to be hard on fingers. Notice that 38spl and everything labeled magnum are out of my list! That is because they are relatively tall and thin cases making it harder to see a double charge or a light charge. The issue with magnums get compounded because a few of the more popular powders are not very bulky and have small charge volumes which makes it easier to double charge a case or have a squib. I also reinforce powder inspection when discussing or teaching new loaders, and never teach a new guy to use a drop. They get too confident in the equipment and simply trust it to work when in reality they need to see and do by hand and feel. Worst case scenario for a reloader is a powder bridge in the drop tube making a light case followed by a heavy charge. If those rounds make it to the gun in that order then damage will happen and ER visits are likely with a special coroner visit possible.

Go SLOW and steady. Learn it and understand it. Don’t just do what the book says to do, understand why and how.

 

[Pat Riot]

I started out on and recommend the .38 Special. I started with Unique powder as well. An easy powder to find in the store and an easy powder to load.

1. Simple and straightforward cartridge.
   
2. If you muck up a few rounds figuring things out the cost is less than other rounds. In some cases a lot less.
   
3. Lots of powder and bullet options.

If you have not purchased reloading equipment I recommend RCBS and I recommend starting with a single stage press. Learn the process before jumping into a Progressive press.

Good luck and sing out if you run into trouble or you just need info.