Case lube shootout

geo57 said:
If you are talking about mine for .45 Colt cases they go through a sizing die with a carbide ring so even using no lube has proven to work ok sans any sticking. Applying just a slight film of lube makes the process easier & smoother.
Click to expand...
Are you using carbide pistol dies?
 
film495 said:
you're not going to test which one is the least likely to stick cases in the die?
Click to expand...

I can tell you the one MOST likely to stick a case... and that's Hornady OneShot... IF you don't read and heed the directions.

Test results aside, biggest thing I found to reduce lever effort was to clean and lube the die before a sizing session. I use OneShot, and while it worked well enough (after reading the directions... ;) ) I'll bet effort was reduced by half (or thereabouts, using my highly calibrated elbow to measure...) after I started giving the die itself a quick snort of OneShot.
 
Charlie98 said:
I can tell you the one MOST likely to stick a case... and that's Hornady OneShot... IF you don't read and heed the directions.

Test results aside, biggest thing I found to reduce lever effort was to clean and lube the die before a sizing session. I use OneShot, and while it worked well enough (after reading the directions... ;) ) I'll bet effort was reduced by half (or thereabouts, using my highly calibrated elbow to measure...) after I started giving the die itself a quick snort of OneShot.
Click to expand...
I wonder how many rounds the expander stays lubricated that way. One thing I don't do but probably should.
 
frogfurr said:
UPS brought me my first bottle of Dillon D.C.L earlier this week and I got a chance to try it tonight small case sizing some 308 brass. The Dillon lube is my new champ. Sure beats rubbing Imperial on with my fingers and the sizing effort considerably less. After having a Dillon 550 for a few years one would have thought that I had already tried their lube but had not. Thank you!
Click to expand...

For Dillon lube I recommend putting your brass into a shoe box, spray a couple squirts of Dillon lube on the brass then putting the cover on the box and shaking it up. This does a good job of coating the entire outside of the cases.

After a half dozen or so batches of brass treated in the shoe box you will find that you no longer need to add Dillon lube any more. The lanoline soaks into the cardboard box sides and simply shaking a batch of brass in the box will coat the brass with enough lanoline to very effectively lubricate the cases without having to spray any additional Dillon lube in the box.

I use mostly RCBS lube because I have my progressive press straight wall case press heads setup with RCBS lube dies. This decaps and lubes the straight wall cases in the first station which spares my case feeder and case drop tube from lube, dirt, gunk build up.

For bottle neck cases the RCBS lube dies are useless because they don't lube the necks so I use the Dillion case lube, shaking the brass in the saturated shoe box as described above.

Prior to lube dies I used Hornady One Shot lube for straight wall cases. I found One Shot noticeably less effective than Dillon lanoline based lube but still effective enough to get the job done... for straight walled cases. Like stated above pistol cases don't really "need" lube but my progressive press flies through the rounds considerably quicker when pistol cases are lubed.
 
Last edited:
Lots of interesting concepts in the above posts. I've been using the NRA formula since the 60's.
Lanolin grease applied with a pad or fingers sparingly! Never a stuck case!

Since trying DCL 30 years ago I've duplicated it ever since. It's 99% Isopropyl Alcohol available at some hardware stores, compounding pharmacies or online. Mixed with Lanolin oil also available at compounding pharmacies and "online". I used a new bottle of DCL and mixed mine at about the same ratio which seem to be about 30:1! Following the DCL instructions it's very important to let it dry. Whether sprayed directly or into a plastic bag or box!

There are also a number of drug store concoctions that also work very well like "Bag Balm" and other similar products that include LANOLIN in the ingredients. The important thing to remember is that the LANOLIN doesn't MIGRATE!

I most case I leave the lanolin on the loaded rounds until ready for use. It helps with anti-corrosion! :)
 
I used to be a believe in imperial sizing wax for all things rifle. These days I am down to actively loading for .223 and .308. Using Dillon carbide sizing dies and spray lube have made it a lot easier on my old shoulders.
 
Jim Watson said:
Who here has bought a plain steel sizing die for a straight wall pistol case in the 21st century or even the last quarter of the 20th?
Yet almost any thread on handgun reloading will draw a mention of a carbide sizing die as something special.
Click to expand...
I started reloading in the early 1980's and at that time carbide pistol dies seemed to be a new thing, commanding a premium price over plain steel dies. I don't know when carbide dies became available, as I wasn't paying attention to reloading equipment before I got started. The guy who helped me get started recommended carbide dies and that's all I've ever bought. Somewhere around here I have a plain steel pistol die I bought along with some other junk, but I've never used it and I'm not sure where it is.
 
AJC1 said:
I wonder how many rounds the expander stays lubricated that way. One thing I don't do but probably should.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty careful about making sure I get some lube in the case necks... I spray them at a 45^ angle to make sure. I never thought lubing the case would make that big of a difference... but it does, and it doesn't seem to give up though a sizing session.
 
AJC1 said:
If you have Johnsons paste wax I'm curious
..
Click to expand...
Did you know they stopped making Johnson Paste Wax? I've used the same can for 15 years and was glad I bought another a few years ago. The company decided there was not enough demand to keep making it
 
Alan W said:
Did you know they stopped making Johnson Paste Wax? I've used the same can for 15 years and was glad I bought another a few years ago. The company decided there was not enough demand to keep making it
Click to expand...
I guess I should guard it closely, it's perfect for dressing my cabinet saw tables.... slides smooth no gunk on the wood...
 
jmorris said:
It would probably be the one that requires the least force in use. If you send me a rifle die and brass I will size them unlubed until I rip the rim off and I'll let you know how much force that takes though.
Click to expand...
I have some 28 Nosler brass and a spare die specifically because it's so easy to tear the damn rims off..... Might not be a bad test..... Heck, that's why I have the...... Redding? Stucase remover set.
 
LoonWulf said:
I've had really good results with it, Even if it does smell funky.
Have switch to lanolin and alcohol just cuz I'm cheap.....
Click to expand...
Ya been working for me for years, last few tubes I've mixed with alcohol and it's so easy to use, tho I think the lower % alcohol actually works better the high proff stuff separates more. Finding a sprayer can be a pain, they may work but after sitting the lube dries up inside the pump and they stop working good. I found out those bottles of detangler girls use works really good, it's a nice small bottle to.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

CMV
  • Locked
223 sizing die denting cases
Replies
16
Views
3K
gamestalker
G
9mmepiphany
  • Locked
Homebrewed Case Lube
2
Replies
44
Views
5K
Ks5shooter
Ks5shooter
S
  • Locked
Case lube evaporation
Replies
1
Views
419
MNgoldenbear
M
adcoch1
  • Locked
Keep your lube warm!
Replies
9
Views
660
adcoch1
adcoch1
R
  • Locked
Case lube for progressive press/
Replies
6
Views
922
1911user
1
Back
Top