Case Prep - Order of Operations

After trimming a case, which process do you follow


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But after trimming, I'll have a ridge of brass on the outside of the case mouth...much like the burr when sharpening a knife. I could leave that burr there and it does come off, usually during crimping, but that leaves me a bunch of brass shavings on my shell plate
Yep, exactly.
 
I voted "Bevel first" but only because that is the order of the tool bits on my case prep center. I really don't think it matters which order.
 
Question, not an argument: what is the point/goal of the outside beveling operation?
 
Get the little pieces left over from trimming off, and help not shave brass when roll crimping.
 
And I guess for the revolver shooters to help the rounds slip in real fast. Like chamfering their chambers in the cylinder on their competition guns.
 
And I guess for the revolver shooters to help the rounds slip in real fast. Like chamfering their chambers in the cylinder on their competition guns.
Yup, my revolver rounds are loaded pretty light and I put on a pretty good roll crimp. Between the rounded profile of the crimp, long RN bullets, and the chamfering of each charge hole, there is hardly any effort to aligning the cartridges during reloads at speed
 
Is there a correlation between the order of beveling and chamfering and the order in which one puts socks and shoes on?
Both socks then both shoes or one sock one shoe?. Then there is what order one ties them in.:)
 
I usually do the chamfer then the bevel but I have done it the other way around.
Don't know that it makes a difference one way or the other, and if it does I doubt I could shoot the difference.
 
Is there a correlation between the order of beveling and chamfering and the order in which one puts socks and shoes on?
Both socks then both shoes or one sock one shoe?. Then there is what order one ties them in.:)

Right sock, left sock, right shoe, left shoe, tie right, tie left and mustard goes on the bottom piece of bread with the meat on top of it, mayo on top never mix the two. Geezzzzz everyone knows that.
 
IMO i bevel first this way whatever gets cut inside and hanging may get fixed by the chamfer tool. IDK if it works or makes sense but it does to me! :)
 
I've considered only beveling the inside of the case mouth, mostly to ease the insertion of Hi-tek coated bullets. I expand with the Redding copy of the Lyman "M" die and my bullets seat smoothly

But after trimming, I'll have a ridge of brass on the outside of the case mouth...much like the burr when sharpening a knife. I could leave that burr there and it does come off, usually during crimping, but that leaves me a bunch of brass shavings on my shell plate

Stay on topic people. He is talking about 38 Special, not rifle.

If you are using an M-die or a Redding clone, you do not need to do anything. The M-die will remove any burr on the interior due to its function. The roll crimp on the exterior will take care of the outside. I assume you are trimming them even so you are getting consistent roll crimps?

The real question here is how much accuracy are you chasing? Do you need excellent accuracy? If so, a quick trim might be needed, but only to get absolute accuracy. But if you are just trying to hit the "A" zone on a IPSC target at 50', you're probably wasting your time.
 
For new and range pick up for handgun, I check length; seldom have to trim, and then only for crimp uniformity. Most brass is shorter than or just kisses my Lee trimmer. If trimmed i chamfer both in and out.
 
I have a, little, reversible, handheld RCBS tool and usually, lightly bevel, then chamfer and then repeat.
 
I voted that it doesn't matter and I believe that just as long as you do both. For effency I tend to alternate, inside outside, outside inside, ect, avoiding continuously rotating the tool. Thats just me. But then, I eat with both hands. I use a knife in one hand and a fork in the other!
 
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