il.bill
Member
Presented with three used revolvlers in equal condition, with equal round counts and wear, all at the same price, would you choose a S&W Model 10 Heavy Barrel Revolver in 10-6, 10-8, or 10-10?
As I understand the model differences, the 10-6 (beginning in 1962) eliminated trigger-guard screw on frame; the 10-8 (1977) changed gas ring from yoke to cylinder; and the 10-10 (1988) featured a new yoke retention system, radius stud package, and floating hand hammer nose bushing.
I do not understand if any of these changes would be considered improvements for reliability or durability, or were they simply developed to cut costs, or both. I have a 10-6 and a 10-8, both blued square butt, with 4 inch barrels, and they both are nice shooting handguns - I can not tell a functional difference between them from my viewpoint. I plan to add to my meager collection, and just wondered what the better-informed folks at THR have to say, other than "you can't go wrong with any of them". Is one configuration considered 'better'?
Thanks for any input or knowledge you can share,
As I understand the model differences, the 10-6 (beginning in 1962) eliminated trigger-guard screw on frame; the 10-8 (1977) changed gas ring from yoke to cylinder; and the 10-10 (1988) featured a new yoke retention system, radius stud package, and floating hand hammer nose bushing.
I do not understand if any of these changes would be considered improvements for reliability or durability, or were they simply developed to cut costs, or both. I have a 10-6 and a 10-8, both blued square butt, with 4 inch barrels, and they both are nice shooting handguns - I can not tell a functional difference between them from my viewpoint. I plan to add to my meager collection, and just wondered what the better-informed folks at THR have to say, other than "you can't go wrong with any of them". Is one configuration considered 'better'?
Thanks for any input or knowledge you can share,