Also, while you have the barrel off, finish Ruger's work and drill the receiver heel to allow cleaning the barrel from the breech.
Please explain about drilling the receiver heel.
Drilling 1/4" hole in the back of the receiver aligned with the bore allows you to run the cleaning rod from the chamber end to muzzle so as to not damage the muzzle crown.
If you don't want to drill the receiver, you can clean the bore from chamber to muzzle using flexible cable system like Otis.
Some use Bore Snake but personally, if a .22 bore is properly burnished, I prefer to not brush and just mop with Hoppes #9 and dry patch as in this thread, we discussed cleaned 10/22 and T/CR22 barrel not improving accuracy over dirty barrels until they were fouled again -
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...k-dirty-vs-clean-22lr-barrel-accuracy.897763/
The housing is made of a polymer material ... should I soak the trigger group ... will the plastic degrade? The magazine is embarrassingly filthy as well. What about the plastic parts in that? The mag is not difficult, I can wipe and brush that but I do want to know about the trigger group.
Factory 10 round rotary magazine really needs to be disassembled to clean as gunk/dirt/grit build up on the inside will prevent the magazine from reliably rotating to feed rounds.
As to polymer/plastic parts, I have used Hoppes #9 solvent on Ruger pistol/rifle and other brand pistol/rifle parts for decades and never seen any issue (I can't speak for other brand/type solvent).
brake cleaner in the trigger group and blow out with air.
Non-chlorinated brake cleaner can work but gunk/build up is often trapped in holes and engagement areas that you cannot visualize looking from the top opening of the trigger group. And you still need to lube the hammer/sear engagement surfaces after cleaning and you can't really do that without disassembly.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...22-collector-3-break-in.859106/#post-11296626
As to cleaning the trigger group and bolt/handle, there are plenty of videos on Youtube that will walk you through step by step. If you really don't want to disassemble the trigger group, you can carefully brush the internal parts with Hoppes #9 but likely won't be able to get to hammer/sear engagement surfaces to clean and lube. And since the firing pin/track is on top of the bolt that you can't get to without removing the bolt, you really need to remove the bolt to ensure all the fouling/gunk build up is removed paying attention to removing caked on build up around the extractor, extractor slot in the barrel, bolt face and firing pin channel or you could experience feeding/chambering and primer ignition issues.