Cleaning a S&W wheelgun

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Ive done it a successfully a couple times. After barely seeing any build up, I decided there's not much to be gained as far cleaning goes.
If you do decide to do it use correct screw drivers and technique, failure will results in
gashes on the frame, messed up screws and pried ends of the sideplate. You'll see it on used Smiths
 
Shooting is only a part of owning nice firearms. I often wipe down my collection and enjoy looking at them. Tearing them down,although not really needed is a good part of our hobby. Rainy or snowy day spent in the house disassembling and reassembling is a great way to spend the day. It also make you familiar with your firearm,so if an issue comes up with a particular gun you are versed in its internals.
 
Traditionally, Colt's and S&W's were cleaned by simply opening the cylinder and cleaning the bore and chambers.

Unless you drop it in a mud puddle or use it under extremely harsh conditions like dust storms, or in salt water they usually don't need more.
If you are concerned about it, you can do a full disassembly once a year and give it a full deep clean.

Before doing that I strongly recommend buying the Jerry Kuhnhausen Shop manual on your specific brand and buy some Brownell's Magna-Tip screwdriver bits to avoid dinking up the screws.
"Usually" the following bits will fit almost all Colt and S&W revolvers.........

.150-3
.180-3
.210-3.

The Shop Manuals were written to be used as training aids for new gunsmithing students. These cover all disassembly adjustments, and repairs to FACTORY standards.
BEWARE of disassembly videos on Youtube. Some of those are by butchers who have no idea of the proper way to disassemble and reassemble without damaging the gun.

https://www.brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=shop+manual&ksubmit=y

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...-bits/magna-tip-super-set-bits-prod41568.aspx

I also recommend a Brownell's "law enforcement" size handle. Standard size handles are too big. A "LE" handle puts you closer to the screw for better control.....

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ip-super-set-screwdriver-handles-prod400.aspx

If you're going to be working with guns much, buy a magnetic and a clip-tip handle, you'll have need of both.
Thanks for identifying the correct bits for Smiths and Colts- just placed an order with Brownells. I bought some Forster screw drivers a few months ago which are excellent but the 2 I bought fit very few of my guns. My mistake.
 
I also don't take them apart unless something is wrong. Ruger or Smith..... no matter. I can and have. But don't for cleaning. I wipe everything I can get to and swab/ brush/ both the barrel and maybe the cylinder if its needed.
 
If it is used, I open up every S&W revolver. Lots of good, detailed videos. Do NOT pry the side plate off. Once you see what it's like it there, a light scrubbing with a solvent soaked toothbrush, followed by a blast of break cleaner, then a very light lube, and you're done for the rest of the time you own it. Regular cleaning does NOT require a full tear-down. I clean my guns every time I shoot them, regardless of round count. They all look great. But other than the first tear-down, the side plate has not been off.
 
Ditto Homerboy. To get it clean, you really do have to take the side plate off. But you don't have to disassemble the clock-work. Once clean, it'll be good to go for a very, very long time. When you knock off the side plate just beware of loose parts that fall out, like the hammer block, for example. ;)
 
I would disassemble your Smith after the first 5k rounds, just to see how it's wearing in. If all's well, every 10k thereafter.

If you pull it apart every trip, you'll wear that sideplate out!
 
Ditto Homerboy. To get it clean, you really do have to take the side plate off. But you don't have to disassemble the clock-work. Once clean, it'll be good to go for a very, very long time. When you knock off the side plate just beware of loose parts that fall out, like the hammer block, for example. ;)

Agreed. I’ve fully torn all mine down just to get them really clean for the first time but it’s probably unnecessary. Seen some nasty stuff in some of them. I bought a LNIB 15-2 this year. Gun looked un-fired. Action was sluggish. I took the plate off and it was gross in there. Decades old congealed grease. Probably someone squirted oil in there. Full tear down and a soak in automatic transmission fluid for a couple of day and a scrubbing. Like new again and action is like a Swiss watch. It’s so nice I haven’t even fired it yet. I have other guns for that and I’m not ready to dirty this one up yet!
 
Re: Taking the side plate off to clean a S&W revolver.

I find that shooting many hundreds of rounds of home cast bullets using N.R.A. formula Alox type of bullet lube coupled with very light target loads (which causes more than normal carbon blow-back), the innards of the S&W double action will have an accumulation of sludge build up (consisting of carbon, bullet lube, and gun oil). The products of shooting such loads are blown into the action via the space ("window") where the hand comes through the recoil shield and the locking bolt slot in the frame bottom. Sooner or later it will effect the operation of the gun. Taking the side plate off the gun and removing the components is not rocket science. Nevertheless, it is not a job for an inept dolt. If one wishes to open and detail clean the inside, one should first learn how it is properly performed.

I have found that powder coating my bullets has cut down on the sludge that builds up in the action, but does not eliminate it.

In short, taking the side plate off or not can be relative to how dirty the load and conditions are...factory loads are generally much cleaner than cast bullet loads, especially light target hand loads.
 
And to reiterate, you do not pry the sideplate off with a screwdriver..................
 
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