Cleaning revolver cylinders

[monotonous_iterancy]

Today I was cleaning a revolver, and I was running a bore mop through each cylinder like I usually do. I looked down them, and saw a ring of something right where the bullet meets the casing. I assumed that it's powder or lead build up.

Is this normal? As in, is it something that needs to be cleaned? I didn't seem to do much to it. So, what should I do about it?

 

[slimpickens]

What caliber of revolver? Maybe shooting .44 specials, or .38 specials in a
.44 magnum, or .357 magnum respectively? There are other variations of different calibers you could be shooting in like manner.
If so, the shorter cartridges will leave a gas ring or fouling where the shorter cartridge ends in the cylinder wall. Or something like that !!

 

[monotonous_iterancy]

It's a .38 special out of a .38 revolver.

 

[T Bran]

When mine get nasty I run a bore brush in my cordless drill for a few seconds. Just dip it in your solvent of choice and hit each hole for a few rotations works like a champ. Do be careful not to let spinning steel parts contact the cylinder as you work.
T

 

[mmitch]

Use a chamber brush instead of a bore brush.

Mike

 

[monotonous_iterancy]

Thanks, I will.

BTW, do I clean guns incorrectly? I always just use a bore brush and some solvent, and run it through until it seems clean enough. I sort of have trouble with cleaning patches.

 

[BCRider]

I push a couple of patches through first. If the bore looks "crusty" from a harder buildup then I'll use a bore brush for a few passes. Oddly enough I seldom need to use more than the patches.

After working with the regular "eye of a sewing needle" like patch tips I tried a proper patch jag. I'm now working on getting fitted jags for all my calibers. They really do a great job on cleaning with a simple patch instead of using a bore brush for MOST things.

 

[Waywatcher]

You are right about it being powder/lead buildup. It can be a chore to get out. I've found a .40 cal brush works decent; until it frays apart.

The best, which is harder to find these days, is a Hoppe's Tornado style brush, the style where it lookslike loops of stainless steel instead of the traditional brush. I use a .375 rifle brush with also pretty good results.

The Tornado style brushes also work really well on shotgun bores; anything smoothbore it seems to scrub quite well.

 

[monotonous_iterancy]

After working with the regular "eye of a sewing needle" like patch tips I tried a proper patch jag. I'm now working on getting fitted jags for all my calibers. They really do a great job on cleaning with a simple patch instead of using a bore brush for MOST things.

I don't have a proper jag, I have one of those things you have to push through. I have one of those multi-purpose cleaning kits. When I try and clean my .22 with patches, I tear a patch in half, fold it, and run it through, but I don't feel like I get 360 degree cleaning, or sometimes it won't go all the way in the bore, or whatever, they just seem kind of complicated, so I just run a brush through until it stops coming out black.

 

[T Bran]

A good jag with a good fitting patch will allow you to reverse directions with out losing the patch in the bore. If you mark your cleaning rod you can avoid getting into the chamber which is where I occasionally oops and lose a patch.
The main reason I switched to jags was my dislike of ''threading the needle'' in small calibers.
Luck

 

[.44 Associate]

The ring you describe is normal. It can generally be ignored with impunity. It has to build up to an obscene level before it starts interfering with chambering rounds.

If it bothers you the trick with the bore/chamber/whatever brush and the drill motor works fine. The Tornado brush is really effective, but does create visible scratches, so might be overkill.

Regarding jags, I have never found anything as effective as a worn or undersize brass brush. They hold the patch perfectly and encourage it to fill all the nooks and crannies.

 

[monotonous_iterancy]

Regarding jags, I have never found anything as effective as a worn or undersize brass brush. They hold the patch perfectly and encourage it to fill all the nooks and crannies.

I've seen people do that, but some for some reason never considered trying it myself. That's a good idea, thanks.

 

[rcmodel]

When mine get nasty I run a bore brush in my cordless drill for a few seconds. Just dip it in your solvent of choice and hit each hole for a few rotations works like a champ.

Do this!

But every cleaning should begin with a bronze bore brush on a cleaning rod.
Followed by clean patches & solvent,.
Followed by the cotton mop with a light coat of preserstive oil on it.

The cotton mop is not a cleaning tool that willl remove most powder or bullet fouling.

A bronze bore brush does that first, followed by patches and bore mops..

It can generally be ignored with impunity.

Not!!
If the manufacture didn't put it there, it isn't supposed to be there after the gun is cleaned.

rc

 

[MrBorland]

I looked down them, and saw a ring of something right where the bullet meets the casing. I assumed that it's powder or lead build up.

eh...you may simply be looking at the throat. Employ reasonable measures to clean the chambers, but extraordinary measures shouldn't be needed. Damage to the throat can permanently affect accuracy.

 

[pinstripe]

That ring is normal. The cylinder is reamed and polished at the factory for a slight amount of expansion to the brass during firing. This over bore also aids in the removal of fired brass.

 

[.44 Associate]

Not!!
If the manufacture didn't put it there, it isn't supposed to be there after the gun is cleaned.

I can think of several things left behind after cleaning (burn marks on the cylinder face, turn rings on the outside of the cylinder, that little bit of residue between the top strap and the forcing cone that I rarely bother to clean) which were not put there by the manufacturer yet which have no effect on the functioning of the gun. The little rings of gunk about which the OP has written are included in that category.

 

[walnut1704]

I use a .375 bronze rifle brush on the chambers, it's larger size and greater length makes it very effective. Be careful with a drill, and I wouldn't use a drill with a stainless brush.

 

[rcmodel]

If you mark your cleaning rod you can avoid getting into the chamber which is where I occasionally oops and lose a patch.

A trick I use is to cut a wood dowel rod slightly less then cylinder length and drop it in a chamber to act as a rod/jag stop.

I have made a set for .22, .32, 38, & .44/.45.
One or the other will fit any revolver cylinder I have.

rc

 

[edwin41]

i fired a lot of .38 spec. trough my smith .357 mag revolver , so i had a lot of fouling in that area.
i took a fired .357 mag casing and cut a sharp edge in the casemouth with
a inside deburringtool and opend the mouth with my flare die , so that i had a tight fit and put this cartridge in every chamber...
at first some force was neccesary , but after a few times it went smooth ,
cause the fouling was cut out of the chambers.

 

[GP100man]

Chamber + throat = revolver cyl.

Mr Borland gets the cookie, there is a transition ramp from chamber to throat .

To check it just flare an empty case & push it into the chamber ,it`ll scrape the crude out & the rest should be loosened enuff a brush will knock it out .

 

[earplug]

A couple of tips

Put a plastic straw around your cleaning rod to protect your firearm.
Put the firearm in a padded vice if your using a power tool and a cleaning rod.
Let your solvent work. Leave it in the cylinder for a couple of hours before you start scrubbing.
I like to use a damp brush or mop at the range then I finish up at home.

 

[GRIZ22]

Good tips. I just scanned the responses and one thing I didn't notice was give the solvent a chance to work. When you swab the chambers with solvent let it sit for a few minutes. Saves a lot of brushing and easier on you and the gun. Goes for barrels too.

 

[Snag]

I use an appropriate chamber brush like mmitch said. They're a little larger and a little stiffer than a bore brush for the same caliber. Takes just a few passes and things loosen up enough to get the rest with patches.

 

[jhco50]

It is part of the machining of the chamber and is normal.

 

[Hondo 60]

Gun Cleaning 101
by Hondo 60

1. Start with a dry bore brush.
Run it through all chambers & the barrel 10x each

2. Dip brush in Hoppe's #9.
Run it through all chambers & the barrel 10x each

3. Run dry patches through until they come out clean.
If you have some stubborn fouling, you may need to repeat #2.

4. Use CLP, Gun Oil, Kleenbore Formula 3 (which I can't find any more)
Drop in as needed to keep gun oiled & protected from rust.

5. Final step is to wipe it down with a silicone impregnated cloth.
That makes it all shiny & gleaming.

I'm not sayin' it's the only way, just sayin' that's how I do it.