Cleaning your gun... Any sort of way rinse film/greasiness?

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Agent-J

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So, you've just finished scrubbing your gun with Hoppe's #9 and it's a bit filmy and greasy... is there something you can use to "rinse" the film/greasiness away?

Water sounds like a bad idea, so is there anything that functions the same but evaporates faster? Maybe isopropyl alcohol cut with water?

Also, anyone have any recommendations for cleaning stuff as I just got the $20 hoppe's kit which I'm sure has minimal stuff.
 
Agent-J, Break Free CLP it is a cleaner, lubricant, and preservative. You want need any thing else. orchidhunter
 
I use Gun Scrubber to spray off all the solvent and crude from my guns. Then i re-lube with CLP.
 
I use WD-40, but it leaves a little greasiness of its own. I just wipe it off any surfaces that I want dry. It has the side benefit of giving everything you blow out a light lube.

Brake cleaner (be careful; might harm some surfaces) or Rem-clean (both come in a spray can) will leave everything it washes clean and dry.
 
So, you've just finished scrubbing your gun with Hoppe's #9 and it's a bit filmy and greasy... is there something you can use to "rinse" the film/greasiness away?


Rag....seriously. You don't want to strip off protection.
__________________


Hoppes #9 is a solvent and doesn't really offer much if anything in the way of protection.

Gunscrubber, as already mentioned, flushes all the solvent, durt, and other stuff off or out of the gun. CRC Brake Kleen in the red can is the same stuff as Gunscrubber at 1/3 to 1/2 the price. Don't use on plastic but is okay for Glocks (if fact endorsed by Glock at a seminar i went to). Keep in mind it will remove everything and your gun is now dry of lube. It takes a minute or two to dry by itself, faster if you use an air hose.

I use CLP for lube and use a small flux, cosmetic, or paintbrush to spread it around. Just so it's shiny not drippy. I use CLP in a needle applicator and put a drop or two on slide rails, recoil spring guide, ejector rod (on revolvers), and the internals. No reason to use a lot.

This works for me.
 
I get it now. After scrubbing/cleaning & before oiling.... :eek:

B12 Chemtool. When you don't detail strip the gun, or if you do. Much better than brake cleaner. Dries quicker with less residue.

M-Pro 7 cleaner. Rinse with hot water. Best when you can detail strip the gun. It will COMPLETELY degrease your metal. Relube every little spot.

Slip 2000 gun cleaner is very similar to the M-Pro 7 and also works well.

Seriously. Clean it, oil it, wipe it off with a rag. :)
 

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I saw that someone above posted about using WD-40. From what I have been told, you should keep WD-40 far away from your gun. It is a penetrating oil and gets in all areas of your gun that you don't want it and hard to get out. Also, I have heard of ammo soaking up the WD-40 and causing misfires...
 
WD-40 is just bad in general. It's a short-term lubricant. When left on something long-term, it dries out and gums it up. I would never advocate using it on any complex working mechanism for this reason. You want a proper oil such as 3-in-1 at the very least.
 
ur all

spending to much for that gun cleaner stuff.

Go to NAPA and buy the 3M (black can) high pressure non cholorinated brake cleaner. That stuff works better than anything you buy in a sporting goods store for about $2.50 per can also.
\
It will totally degrease your firearm though, so just make sure you re lube where needed. It will not harm the polymer grips at all. Most of these semi's have a hole on the bottom of the slide that goes into the firing pin channel. All one has to do is insert the nozzle tube in that hole and spray away, it will blow everything out of that channel without taking downt he slide completly.

I have 18,200 rounds through my PM9 and I have never stripped the slide down yet to clean it. I can do allI need to do by the above method.

very low priced and probably the same stuff that those gun scrubbers for about $6 cost

If it says non cholorinated, IT WILLNOT HARM ANY POLMER. Period.
 
Never use WD-40. I learned the hardway with a care package, that contained WD40, from home while in Vietnam. I had the best looking XM203 until I tried to fire it. All gummed up. After that used only sovent and issued gun oil
 
Go to NAPA and buy the 3M (black can) high pressure non cholorinated brake cleaner. That stuff works better than anything you buy in a sporting goods store for about $2.50 per can also.
Click to expand...

Or, save even more and get the Walmart generic equivalent ($1.99 IIRC)!

I use rubbing alcohol to remove any film left after cleaning.
 
I don't use Hoppes, but if you have a "greasy" film after doing so, you either aren't cleaning the gun sufficiently, or you aren't wiping it down sufficiently.

I use Shooter's Choice to clean all of my firearms. I wipe them down with a CLEAN, DRY rag when I'm done, then lightly oil them with Clenzoil. I then wipe off the excess Clenzoil.
 
Simple Green cleaner and warm water. Removes all oil, grease and grime. Non toxic and easy on your hands. Requires complete disassembly of weapon and through drying. Metal parts only, (no plastic or polymer) in a 200 degree oven works fine as does a hair dryer or complressed air. Once everything is dry, throughly spray with Break Free and then wipe off the excess. This is the best system I've every used and I've cleaned several guns this way.

At first I didn't believe it either, I've always been told to keep water away from guns. But watching AGI videos convinced me. This is the only method used in AGI videos, if you don't belive me, buy or borrow one.
 
Virgin, No Odor Mineral Spirits---> Non-chlorinated brake cleaner---> Aerosol Rem Oil all surfaces---> Wipe down---> Lube all lubrication points---> DONE!
 
Water sounds like a bad idea, so is there anything that functions the same but evaporates faster? Maybe isopropyl alcohol cut with water?

Also, anyone have any recommendations for cleaning stuff as I just got the $20 hoppe's kit which I'm sure has minimal stuff.
Click to expand...


Isopropyl, Acetate, Acetone, or Brake Cleaner will all work.
 
I use CLP Breakfree on everything. If it's good enough for Uncle Sam, it's good enough for me.

I usually use it to clean, then wipe with a dry rag to take off excess, then apply a few drops to the friction points (slide rails, bolts, etc).
 
No 9 followed by a rag followed by a good lubricant; lots of elbow grease.

I use old-fashioned cloth diapers as the 'rag'. They are absorbent, lint free after a couple of washes and cheap. They can also be cut down for patches. Soaked in Oxy-clean and a good laundry detergent for a couple hours they clean-up pretty well themselves.
 
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