Dean C
Member
Some of us don’t use “three letter acronyms” as much as others. So, if it is at all possible, please define them in the first usage to help us old guys.
PLS define TLA's LOL
Thanks,
Dean
PLS define TLA's LOL
Thanks,
Dean
CLP
- Thread starter Waterboy3313
- Start date
- Status
Buzznrose
Member
I like the Lucas CLP. It’s easy to find at all the ORiellys auto parts stores around me.
I don’t know that it’s better Or worse than any other.
I don’t know that it’s better Or worse than any other.
tubeshooter
Contributing Member
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2006
- Messages
- 2,149
I bought a big spray can of it years ago and have used it with no issues at all. Seems like a good all purpose product. I still have half of the can left, but I use other things also. Not just Breakfree CLP exclusively. My can has to be around 10 years old, give or take. Maybe a bit more.
I'm a part of the "most anything is fine" camp, by the way. At least as far as lubrication. I used WD-40 at first because I didn't know any better, and I lived to tell the tale. I also have used 3-in-1 here and there and didn't feel too terrible about it.
I was told by a staff member at my LGS that they use Ballistol a lot, simply because it plays nice with most materials and they didn't have to wonder if something adverse was going to happen. On the downside - it smells a little weird. Anyway, something to consider. I have a can of that, too.
I'm a part of the "most anything is fine" camp, by the way. At least as far as lubrication. I used WD-40 at first because I didn't know any better, and I lived to tell the tale. I also have used 3-in-1 here and there and didn't feel too terrible about it.
I was told by a staff member at my LGS that they use Ballistol a lot, simply because it plays nice with most materials and they didn't have to wonder if something adverse was going to happen. On the downside - it smells a little weird. Anyway, something to consider. I have a can of that, too.
DustyGmt
Member
I have accumulated all kinds of different brands over the years, I narrowed it down to a couple but have tried oh probably a dozen easy. A while ago I got sick of rummaging through my gun care container and seeing the $20 sticker on my tube of Frog Lube "CLP" (Crappy Liquid then Paste) so I tossed it in the garbage so I didnt have to be reminded of my time spent applying crap onto by guns with a hairdryer. The hairdryer should have been my first clue
Pat Riot
Contributing Member
“CLP” has been CLP for at least 40 years that I know of. We used Breakfree CLP in the Navy on small arms and the big guns. It’s been around longer that that, since the early ‘70’s, I believe.
CLP = Clean, Lubricate, Protect
Pat Riot
Contributing Member
I mostly use Breakfree CLP on blued parts I want to soak overnight to get carbon off.
For regular cleaning I use Hoppe’s #9 and for lube I use Mobil 1 oil and grease.
For regular cleaning I use Hoppe’s #9 and for lube I use Mobil 1 oil and grease.
For CLP products like Breakfree and the Lucas mentioned:
Pros:
they generally don't damage wood or metal finishes
they sort of lubricate fouling so that it's easier to wipe off
they can be left on the gun and provide some lubrication and a mild level of protection
Cons:
they won't penetrate carbon fouling as well as watery solvents (even ones as simple as Simple Green); being oil-based, they tend to sit on top of the carbon without soaking in
they're oily and leave an oily film that isn't pleasant to handle and that will foul clothing, auto upholstery etc., and that can get grimy with dust
they're not especially ideal lubricants in those places where dry films or grease might work better
I would run some CLP down the bore followed by a snake and wipe the gun with CLP and a rag rather than completely neglect a fouled gun. On the other hand, I would prefer to have more effective cleaner/solvents, separate lubricants, and non-oily protectants. Some guns easily dissassemble in a way that I can keep vulnerable parts separate and use water or ammonia or solvents that would damage wood finishes, and others do not. For the ones that do not, I tend to favor CLP or Ballistol for regular maintenance.
Pros:
they generally don't damage wood or metal finishes
they sort of lubricate fouling so that it's easier to wipe off
they can be left on the gun and provide some lubrication and a mild level of protection
Cons:
they won't penetrate carbon fouling as well as watery solvents (even ones as simple as Simple Green); being oil-based, they tend to sit on top of the carbon without soaking in
they're oily and leave an oily film that isn't pleasant to handle and that will foul clothing, auto upholstery etc., and that can get grimy with dust
they're not especially ideal lubricants in those places where dry films or grease might work better
I would run some CLP down the bore followed by a snake and wipe the gun with CLP and a rag rather than completely neglect a fouled gun. On the other hand, I would prefer to have more effective cleaner/solvents, separate lubricants, and non-oily protectants. Some guns easily dissassemble in a way that I can keep vulnerable parts separate and use water or ammonia or solvents that would damage wood finishes, and others do not. For the ones that do not, I tend to favor CLP or Ballistol for regular maintenance.
Deus Machina
Member
CLP--at least Breakfree, and probably none of them do--doesn't clean, lube, or protect as well as single-purpose fluids.
So at home, I have at least three different bottles.
But it does do all three well enough to be 'field expedient.' Anything I have that can keep any cleaning tools on-board also keeps a little bottle somewhere.
Not that it's that amazing, but it goes well toward keeping a gun completely self-sufficient.
So at home, I have at least three different bottles.
But it does do all three well enough to be 'field expedient.' Anything I have that can keep any cleaning tools on-board also keeps a little bottle somewhere.
Not that it's that amazing, but it goes well toward keeping a gun completely self-sufficient.
OP
OP
Waterboy3313
Member
I knew If I asked the question here I would get some good answers. I actually learned a lot more than I thought I would. Again thankyou for sharing I appreciate it.
FL-NC
Member
CLP is military issue. It stands for Cleaner, Lubricant, Preservative. So 3 very different jobs with 1 product. It works decent, but I don't think it especially excels at all 3. IMO, it is at its best as an exterior product for gun metal. Personally, I use whatever generic motor oil is for sale at auto zone for this task, as well as for lubing actions on things like handguns, hunting rifles, shotguns, etc.For semi automatic rifles like the AR, I lube the BCG with white lithium grease from auto zone. A quart of the motor oil is cheap and can last a LONG time, as can the tube of lithium grease. IMO, the lithium works just as well as the more expensive products like frog lube. We also used the white lithium grease machineguns and automatic grenade launchers in afg. and it was excellent. For solvents, I buy Mpro7 by the gallon. It doesn't have an odor and does a great job on bores. If I am cleaning something like a filthy SKS after a high round count, I use carb cleaner. SO I get all of my cleaning products with the exception of Mpro7 from auto zone.
FL-NC
Member
Yes, this is true. The military uses it because it is a single product for multi uses. If they issued separate products for separate uses, private dum-dum would try to lube his bolt with bore cleaner. Don't assume that just because the military issues something that it is the best.
Last edited:
Buzznrose
Member
This is actually a pretty good video that covers a lot of different products. While I keep things simple with just a few things on my workbench (Lucas, Ballistol, WD-40, Slip2000, antisieze, and Super Lube, I did learn a LOT and will probably buy some Brownells Rust Preventative:
FL-NC
Member
I agree on the rem oil. Same as WD40- pretty much trash. I do keep rem oil in my jeep, only because it comes in a spray can and is convenient. I use it on my gun exterior after hunting before I put the gun in a case. This is just to prevent my gun from rusting until I get a chance to clean it the RIGHT way in a day or 2. Otherwise, WD and rem oil should be saved for things like squeaky door hinges, sticky fishing reels, or tools like needle nose pliers that are seizing up.
I have used BreakFree forever on everything but the bore and I still mix up Ed's Red for that. It just flat works. Once in a great while I will use Sweets and do a complete copper removal on my rifle barrels. The only other thing on the cleaner shelf is Kroil...
DustyGmt
Member
Lithium based greases work well but aluminum based grease is a lil better, like Lubriplate SFL0. It has better AW/EP additives and will hold up a lil better to the elements. Splitting hairs yes, but it is a lil better and it's not that much more expensive for a tub of SFL0 vs WLG.
daniel craig
Member
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2009
- Messages
- 2,815
I don’t use it but it’s pretty popular. Used it in the army and it was stinky and....im not sure it worked all that well.
Personally I only want to use things known to be non-toxic now.
X62503
Contributing Member
FL-NC, is that synthetic, or conventional motor oil? Would a heavier oil, like 80W too 100W gear oil, be of any utility in a weapon?
Cannibul
Member
CLP is a category not a product.
Just because .mil uses it doesn't make it better or the best.
https://www.cherrybalmz.com/history-the-cold-war--clp
Actually the whole series of articles should be of interest to any gun owner.
For my AR pattern firearms it's impossible to beat LSA as a lube. I used it in the service and have been using it since. Sadly it's getting hard to find and expensive. I paid $8 a quart for the last few quarts I bought. It's much more than that now.
I bought a bollte of the Geissele grease to try. It's a very good product. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRVUNMO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cannibul
Member
Outlaw75
Member
Unfortunately, CLP and PTFE aren't listed in that post.
CLP = Cleaner/Lubricant/Protector - One bottle field cleaning solution developed by US military.
PTFE = Polytetrafluoroethylene - Better known under the brand name Teflon.
DustyGmt
Member
Only thing that I observed using lubriplate on my slide rails and Bolt are that it tends to turn into a gritty pastey black gunky substance whereas oil wipes away more easily and doesnt seem to be as clumpy. I'm told that the friction and wear is reduced using a light grease like SFL0 so I'll keep using it. Just makes cleaning a lil more of a chore. I havent quite made up my mind about using grease on my pistols but I definitely see a substantial advantage to using it on BCG's because oils, any oils seem to burn up and migrate way to fast.
Lubriplate was issued back in the day (M1 Garand, Carbine, 1911). A very thin coat on friction points was all it took. Still works well. White Tetra Gun grease excellent substitute on AR bolt carriers & 1911 rails. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1014892251
Regards,
hps
Last edited:
Breakfree CLP did a good job at preventing rust in a famous internet rust prevention test using salt water. It didn't win top honors, but was maybe second tier. I use it to wipe the exterior of guns and to run a wet patch down the bore after cleaning. It also has a nice viscosity for using chor boy for bore lead removal.
daniel craig
Member
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2009
- Messages
- 2,815
It’s why I’ve basically switched to ballistol for any/all gun cleaning and lubrication.I was thinking that motor oil would present a problem with being a toxic material. But maybe the people that are using motor oil on their guns always wear rubber gloves when they shoot?
I started using MPro7 late last year. It is a much better carbon fouling solvent than Breakfree CLP or Ballistol or Hoppes #9. On the other hand, it can damage the finish on wood and when it mixes with lubricating or protecting oil the result in a milky emulsion. Because of this, I came to disfavor it except on parts that are fully stripped. So if I was going to field strip a pistol, I would absolutely clean the barrel with MPro7, but probably not the frame. I clean my revolver barrel with it, but I have to keep it out of the ejector assembly and the lockwork in the back of the frame unless I'm going to strip that all and relubricate it. I'm also careful to keep wood stocks, grips, and panels away from MPro7. MPro 7 makes for less work cleaning, except when it doesn't. If I fired 50 rounds of jacketed bullets through a wood-stocked bolt rifle, I'm not going to strip it. It will get some Ballistol or Breakfree down the bore, a snake passed through a couple times, and the bolt scrubbed with Hornady One Shot cleaner (hexane), a drop of oil in the bolt, and that's it.
MPro 7 is advertised as non-toxic.
- Status
