Cold Blue: What Am I Doing Wrong?

[Animal Mother]

A little over a month ago a purchased a Ruger Mark III, and while the pistol has been capable of phenomenal accuracy, one disappointing issue that I’ve encountered is the very thin blued finish on the gun. I have three small areas where the bluing has already worn off, and I’ve used two different types of cold blue to attempt to cover these areas but I haven’t seen the cold blue have any affect at all, so I wonder if I’m not doing something correctly.

The two products I’ve tried using in separate applications are Birchwood Casey’s Perma Blue and Van’s Instant Gun Blue. The steps I’ve been taking to cold blue are as follows:

1. Degrease the metal with denatured alcohol.
2. Heat the surface with a hair dryer.
3. Apply the cold blue with q-tip (Perma Blue) or a new toothbrush (Van’s), and let the solution sit on the surface of the gun for a few minutes.
4. Wipe off solution, and then wipe down with water, dry, and then oil.

I understand that it should take multiple applications to bring the cold blue level up to a similar blue/black level as the original bluing but after a single application I can detect no difference in the color of the exposed steel. Is that normal? Should it take multiple applications for the cold blue to begin to show? Currently, I’ve only applied the cold blue to a single area (under the barrel) because I’ve read that the cold blue can sometimes alter the color of the surrounding bluing so I was using the least visible area to spot test the bluing.
These are the three areas where the bluing has worn:


This is the spot under the barrel where the bluing has worn; it came like this from the factory, and is the area where I’ve been testing the cold blue.

I mounted the factory scope base on the gun one afternoon to see how I would like using a red dot and scope, after I removed the base, these scratches remained.

The bluing has worn at the end of the barrel due to the gun resting in the factory plastic case.

 

[LightningMan]

Try not using Q-Tips as I think they have some sort of moisturizing lotion in them, just use cotton balls. You may have better luck, worth a try. LM

 

[The Wiry Irishman]

I'm interested in this as well. I have a Kimber Custom II with a lot of finish wear on it that I tried to touch up with PermaBlue just for the sake of having a project to do rather than any real need. The only part that would accept the finish was the grip safety, the frame and thumb safety were unaffected regardless of how long they were exposed. I find this odd, since both parts should be carbon steel.

 

[MICHAEL T]

Depends on the metal . Cold won't stick on a lot of metal Also cold bluing doesn't wear well

If new complain to ruger

 

[nalioth]

I use Van's Gun Blue.

I heat the metal with a propane torch (this won't get the metal anywhere near hot enough to damage it) and apply it.

Seems to work okay. . .

 

[harrygunner]

Oxpho-Blue is pretty good at matching a black finish for touchups. I use it to cover small scratched on my 1911's. Bought it from Brownells.

 

[gb6491]

I'm interested in this as well. I have a Kimber Custom II with a lot of finish wear on it that I tried to touch up with PermaBlue just for the sake of having a project to do rather than any real need. The only part that would accept the finish was the grip safety, the frame and thumb safety were unaffected regardless of how long they were exposed. I find this odd, since both parts should be carbon steel.

If your Custom II is like my TLE II, I'm afraid you'll find that the frame, slide stop, barrel bushing, and thumb safety are blackened stainless steel. The slide, barrel, and grip safety are carbon steel. I was disappointed to find this out, but otherwise the pistol has been superb for me.
Regards,
Greg

 

[evan price]

I use Brownell's Oxpho-Blue. My technique is to clean in boiling water, then use 91% rubbing alcohol to degrease- don't handle it with bare skin at this point.
Then the parts go into my kitchen oven on low heat, around 300 degrees for about 15-20 minutes. It should be hot enough the Oxpho-blue hisses and steams and evaporates when you dab it on. I use generic cotton balls to dab on the solution.
After trying cold and getting only slight color, I was almost shocked when the first pass left a very dark black/grey blueing- it was night and day different.
After the part cools to where it is no longer hissing when the liquid touches it, lightly card it off with 0000 steel wool (degreased!) and then back in the oven to repeat the cycle.
When done, give it a good heavy oiling, then a very light wipe with 0000 steel wool.

I was pleased with this on every gun I tried it on. I even did the turret ring and risers of my Lee presses this way.

 

[makarovnik]

For the Van's I clean surface with paint thinner then with denatured (sometimes rubbing) alcohol. Next heat it with at least a 1200 watt hair dryer then apply Van's with a CLEAN rag - no q-tip.

After multiple applications it should darken up but don't fiddle with it, just let it lay there. Each successive application removes some of the previous application and never really matches in depth of color. Finish up by rubbing with neutralizing oil.

I've had better experiences with spray paint than cold bluing.

 

[BADUNAME37]

I had a problem touching up scratches on dad's old 12 gauge pump. There weren't many, just a couple. I cleaned and degreased with alcohol and applied Birchwood Caseys' Perma-Blue and was not real satisfied with the results. I would have been better just leaving the old beauty marks. Now, the gun looks a bit blotchy where the blueing did not take properly and does not match the original.

If it's any consolation, I did find that a nice heavy coat of oil over it all kind of melts the appearance into one better than after it was just blued before coating with oil.

 

[Alberforth]

I never got satisfactory results from gun store cold blues. Oxpho-blue has always worked very well for me, I heat the part first although nothing like so dramatically as Evan Price! I always get an even black finish that wears surprisingly well. (The modified beavertail I installed on my New Agent several months ago has been through a lot of draw practice coming out from inside a dress shirt and not a sign of wear so far FWIW.)

 

[mgmorden]

Strip all oil of the gun to start with - use a degreaser of some sort (before it became such a precious commodity I used to soak a gun - metal parts only - in gasoline for a couple hours to do this).

Once it's degreased and thoroughly dry, try getting the metal a bit hot before application - not red hot (it's still "cold" blue), but just have a hairdrier handy and get it as hot as you can with that. Then apply as normal.

Whole guns I wouldn't recommend doing this way, but I've successfully covered several patches in the past using this method.

Good luck!

PS - you might try different brands of cold blue too. I've never liked the Birchwood Casey stuff. I've used the cold blue that Hoppes makes with good results though.

 

[jcwit]

Another vote for Oxpho-Blue. Mild heat and no need to remove oil, works fantasic.

 

[rcmodel]

Wash the oil out of some Super-Fine (0000 grade) steel wool with alcohol, and use the clean steel wool to rub the Oxpho-Blue on with.

Works better then cotton balls or rags.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1072/product/OXPHO_BLUE_reg_

However, in the grand scheme of things, there is NO cold blue that will give anywhere near the deep blue/black finish, or last nearly as long as real hot-tank bluing.

rc

 

[samaloney2006]

I have been using Birchwood Casey's cold blue for more years than I care to remember. I have great success with it. The trick is and I am sure you are aware of it is cleanliness. You are right about multiple applications and not necessareiy far apart in time. I keep dabbing (with a few minutes apart) until I get the "color" I want. Yes I do use q-tips there is nothing in them, I have used them for years. I did recently run into a trick that has helped me and may help you. When you get the desired "color" add any gun oil to the mix, stir around with a q-tip and let set overnight, it reaaly works.I just bobbed the hammer on one of my guns (hammer bite) filed the back curve of the hammer and the spur, polished everthing, used the above process and I am very happy the way it turned out. Looks original!! Good luck.

 

[MrWesson]

Oxpho-Blue is pretty good at matching a black finish for touchups. I use it to cover small scratched on my 1911's. Bought it from Brownells.

After trying 4-5 other brands Oxpho-blue is the only way to go.

I reblued an entire gun way back and it turned out great(sold it).

I apply the oxpho and then use steel wool to even it out.

 

[FROGO207]

Yet another vote for Oxpho-Blue. I can get a respectable finish on most any firearm with it. I degrease with the Mac's Carb cleaner and heat with a paint stripper type heat gun till really hot and apply. I am always happy with the results. They make a Alluma-Black and it works well also. I still buy stainless when possible as this is easy care IMHO.

 

[Clark]

When I was 12, in 1963 I found a rusted up Smith and Wesson 38 S&W in the woods.

My father sanded it down and put blue on it in the bath tub, after getting it warm with hot water.

When my youngest brother was 12 in 1971, he figured out that my father would not have thrown that gun out, so it must be inside a wall, inside insulation. He found it and sold it.

My current cold blue schpeal:
I used to be on a kick that Dicropan was darker, but Oxpho blue lasted
longer, so I would put Dicropan on first and get it down in the micro
valleys, and then run Oxpho on the micro ridges.
That trick makes dark and long lasting cold blue, but it only works on
steels that take both cold blues well.
If you can find this stuff, get some, and you will broaden what you can
do besides Oxpho and Dicropan.
http://www.g96.com/miva/graphics/00000001/gunbluecreme-small.gif
You will need:
1) Towels
2) Paper towels
3) Kleenex
4) Hot running water
5) 3 dedicated tooth brushes
6) Motor oil
7) Oxpho blue: liquid works better, cream is easier to use
8) Some other darker cold blue
9) Liquid detergent, like SIMPLE GREEN

Get the part hot and soapy, and scrub it with a tooth brush.
Rinse and dry without getting finger prints on it or letting it cool down.
Scrub on the dark cold blue with a tooth brush for a minute.
Get the part hot and soapy, and scrub it with a tooth brush.
Rinse and dry without getting finger prints on it or letting it cool down.
Scrub on the Oxpho cold blue with a tooth brush for a minute.
Apply oil lightly without rubbing off the Oxpho blue.
Leave overnight.
Get the part hot and soapy, and scrub it with a tooth brush.
Rinse and dry.
Rub oil on it.
Wipe off excess oil.

Repeat until dark and durable enough.

For whole barrels, spin them in the lathe to rub in the Oxpho.

With barrels, put a rubber stopper in the muzzle and breech to keep
liquids out.

Hair dryer or heat gun can warm parts.

 

[mnrivrat]

44-40 Has worked for me on guns that would not take other cold bluing.

 

[fishshocker]

What rcmodel said above. My opinion exactly.

 

[788Ham]

I've tried the Cold Blue cream, it does alright, but I'm thinkin' on getting some Oxpho and giving it a try. The Cb stuff hasn't really darkened enough, I've got a 1935 Beretta .32 that has a worn finish on the barrel, inside the slide area, not from the slide, holster use. I've even tried the hair dryer mode, it seems to be alright, just not really blue enough. I know this CB stuff doesn't last very long, but this isn't an everyday carry either. Thanks for everyone's input here, learned some good things on this THR forum.

 

[KodiakBeer]

Wash the oil out of some Super-Fine (0000 grade) steel wool...

YES! While all the other advice is sound (degrease, heat, etc) applying with steel wool will work when nothing else will.

 

[MarkDozier]

WOW, I just use bluing touch up pen. Works great. I wipe the spot with acohol, dry and do the touch up.

 

[788Ham]

Well guys, I got some of the Oxpho Blue stuff and I can't say its any better than the BirchWood Casey cold blue cream! I tried it like evan price said to do it, heated oven and fooled with that, never saw any real big difference than what I already had. I let it cool like was stated and carded with 0000 steel wool, some slight difference, so back into the oven. 3 times of this, didn't see any difference either time thru this process, maybe its the steel in the Beretta barrel, its a 1935 Beretta .32 auto. I've gone back to the cold blue cream, applied 3 separate app's, looks a whole lot darker now, and shinier also. Used denatured alcohol to clean before I started, any ideas as if this might be the cause?

 

[Drail]

Alcohol is not a really good de-greaser. Try acetone or lacquer thinner. Get the metal warm. First application can be heavy. Wipe dry and card the metal (lightly brush with a stainless steel brush or steel wool or Sctchbrite pad). You don't want to take all of the 1st application off, just level it out. Subsequent applications should be just a couple of drops on a paper towel (or CLEAN rag) rubbed into the metal. Repeat until you get the darkness you want. While cold blue is great for touching up small spots and can look very good right after you do it - it won't last long. Your hand or a holster will wear it off pretty quickly. But it's easy to touch up as needed. Some steels may not react to cold blue.