Cold Gold Cup Trigger

[H1500308]

Got my GC back from the smith after a drop in beavertail and hammer install (it bit like crazy) and a detail strip and clean.

It's once great, light, crisp trigger now seems to break at the same weight but has a lot of creep/drag before the break. What was moved out of adjustment/not readjusted to cause this?

Is this an easy adjustment by any competent gunsmith? I don't know enough about the internals to do it myself.

 

[cyclopsshooter]

did he have to replace the hammer?

 

[H1500308]

OOPS forgot to add

...yes a skeleton hammer was also installed.

 

[cyclopsshooter]

thats the problem- the gold cup hammer should have a finely done single sear stud- i venture a guess that is not the case with the new hammer

 

[H1500308]

Ok....what is involved in getting it back to it's original trigger quality?

 

[gb6491]

Ok....what is involved in getting it back to it's original trigger quality?

Sorry to say, but it will most likely need to go back to the gunsmith (or another) for more trigger work. If you go to the "The Consolidated 1911 Clinic Thread" sticky, you will find quite a bit of information pertaining to what is involved with trigger work on the 1911 platform.
Regards,
Greg

 

[Drail]

Hammers and sears must be mated to each other so that the angles agree. Exactly. If you change just one or the other the odds are very slim they will be in agreement. Swapping parts without considering this can lead to unsafe triggers. There are many people doing trigger work out there. There are not very many "competent smiths".

 

[krs]

AND...depending on the year of manufacture of a Colt Gold Cup, there may be other factors involved.

The Gold Cup that used a steel trigger (most all of them until lately) also used a small spring loaded lever to prevent inertial firing of the carefully honed shallow hammer notch/sear that could occur because of the combination of light trigger letoff and heavy trigger physical weight.

Not such a hot idea to go making a Gold Cup look 'tactical/whatever with beavertails and aftermarket hammers or triggers without knowing *** you're doing.


Funny, but not one of my six Colt Gold Cups has ever "bitten" my hand. I think that the the original hammer is cut slightly short in the factory to keep it from that, but what do I know.

 

[RogersPrecision]

One more factor,
the original Gold Cup hammer has a relocated strut pin hole.
Less force on the hammer when cocked.