Colorless Fiberglass or Epoxy Mix

[The Glockodile]

I boogered up my stock, too embarrassed to say why - I already have the proper pigment on the way from McMillan, just need a recommendation on what colorless Fiberglass or Epoxy mix to use - do you guys have any personal preference?

 

[Blue68f100]

I use the West System Epoxy for all my repairs. Very expensive but is considered the best. They have additives to adj the visc and to make it high density for hardware. You add pigment to the resin for tint if needed. You can pick your hardener based on how much work time you need and ambient temp.

 

[The Glockodile]

West System Epoxy?

I’ll look into it, thanks.

 

[beag_nut]

I have used West System since '83 (to build 5 glued-lap canoes). Since then I will NEVER use anything else for the correct application. Stay AWAY from "fiberglass" polyester resin.

 

[The Glockodile]

https://www.amazon.com/WEST-SYSTEM-flex-Epoxy-4oz/dp/B07MZFSK61/

Will this one cut it?

It's a small job - most of what they sell is in huge cans.

 

[Blue68f100]

The 105 resin and 205, 206, 207 Hardners is what I use (5:1 mix ratio by weight or volume). Contact West Systems and ask them, the experts. I use the 105 with the slow hardner to finish a Rem 7 Walnut stock. After 24 hrs I removed the gloss to make it a satin finish. If you wait for it to harden it's a lot of work. This system takes 72+hr to full harden. The nice part is that you have a long work time so your not rushed.

The stuff you posted looks like it 1:1. By the look of the hardner it may not be clear.

 

[beag_nut]

For the current application G-Flex is the cat's meow.

 

[Blue68f100]

The G-Flex is actually lower strength than their std epoxies.

Here is a chart comparing the epoxies.

https://www.westsystem.com/products/compare-epoxy-physical-properties/

 

[film495]

just as an FYI, marine epoxy, well - none of the stuff I've used is UV Resistant at all. It will flake and turn white if you don't put a nice coat of spar varnish or something UV Resistant on top of it. You could just skip the epoxy and go with Spar Varnish, but not sure what you are trying to accomplish.

 

[The Glockodile]

The 105 resin and 205, 206, 207 Hardners is what I use (5:1 mix ratio by weight or volume).

Looked them up - they’re only sold in large tins?

I only need a small tube at the very most...

 

[Blue68f100]

What kind of damage did you do to your stock? How much area are you trying to cover? A photo would be nice.

I've used over 11 gal of the West System epoxy when I rebuilt my boat. I think the smallest you can get is Quart kits. Still working on a partial gal. The last time I used it the Hardner had started going bad. But it's been 3-4 yrs since I did the rebuild.

 

[The Glockodile]

What kind of damage did you do to your stock? How much area are you trying to cover? A photo would be nice.

It’s tiny, but annoying.

I’ll post pics shortly...

 

[The Glockodile]

What kind of damage did you do to your stock? How much area are you trying to cover? A photo would be nice.

Here's the damage.

I didn't realize the screw securing the recoil pad didn't have a tract long enough to accommodate it when I removed some LOP spacers.

I just kept screwing it in, until I heard something pop.

I drilled out the fractured sections in preparation for the application of some kind of filler.

I figure I'd need some screws half an inch or so shorter.

 

[Blue68f100]

Are you going to plug the hole, then smooth out? The only issue I see would be matching the color.

Or were you planing on tinting the epoxy to fill the hole.

 

[The Glockodile]

Are you going to plug the hole, then smooth out? The only issue I see would be matching the color.

Or were you planing on tinting the epoxy to fill the hole.

Plugging (with tinted epoxy), then smoothing out.

The pigment's already being sent to me by McMillan.

 

[Blue68f100]

Let me test my epoxy and see if it's still good. If good I will send you a syringe(s) of Resin and Hardner too use. It will take several days (3-5) to know if the epoxy is still good. Normally when it starts going bad it takes a little longer to harden besides the hardner stinking. This mixes at 5:1. you tint the resin before adding the hardner.

 

[The Glockodile]

Thanks, I appreciate it.

I think I’ll be trying out some of this, which I have lying around...

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Multi-Purpose-0-85-Fluid-Syringe-1943587/dp/B011INNBN0

It might suffice, the area’s not load - bearing...

 

[Blue68f100]

I will check mine out while you decide. Don't know how the Loctite will take the dye.

I do have the filler (collated glass, white) to add to the WS to thicken it up so you could fill without using a plug. This may give you a better color match.

 

[The Glockodile]

I will check mine out while you decide. Don't know how the Loctite will take the dye.

I do have the filler (collated glass, white) to add to the WS to thicken it up so you could fill without using a plug. This may give you a better color match.

Thanks.

I'll let you know how things go...

 

[shoobe01]

I use G-Flex all the time, for small things and repairs. It's not as strong as the 105 system but it also comes in small tubes, so isn't obviously expected to be structural AND is stronger than almost any other epoxy I've used.

Blademakers use West System products a lot for some types of decorative-as-well knifey stuff, so are big on tinting. Searched a few to make sure, no problems with G-Flex taking oil based tints. It may change the viscosity of the epoxy, but will reportedly set just fine.

 

[Blue68f100]

Thanks.

I'll let you know how things go...

The epoxy is setting up as it should just a little slower. So if you want me to sent this to you PM me you contact info and I will load up a PIF for you.

 

[David Hoback]

I’m a Knifemaker & also Laminate my own Carbon Fiber sheet.

I use Total Boat for 5:1 mix ratio for a thinner epoxy. This is good for laminating the Carbon Fiber or Fiberglass cloth It’s much cheaper than West Coast Systems & just as good. https://www.amazon.com/TotalBoat-Ep...pY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1

For a thicker, 1:1, the absolute strongest epoxy I’ve found after pretty extensive testing, was the T-88 kit. It says amber, but it’s always pretty darn clear when I use it. And holy crap is it strong!
https://www.amazon.com/System-Three-1100K10-Bottle-Amber/dp/B000M64R8I/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=320O0AAG6A8RW&keywords=T-88+epoxy&qid=1658861394&s=industrial&sprefix=t-88+epoxy,industrial,60&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFVWVpISUdQMlBBS0omZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1Njk1MjUxUEs3RjBPUVJJVFImZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDIyMjg5MTJQMEVZUEtUOENHWDMmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

 

[Blue68f100]

How are you coming on the project?

Did you get the color tint from the mfg in?

My West System Epoxy is good if you need it. Use your tint and I will include some collated glass filler to thicken it up. Scuff up the hole then fill, allow to setup then finish. This epoxy will polish out if you needed it. If you get the tint right you will have a problem seeing where it's at.

 

[The Glockodile]

How are you coming on the project?

Did you get the color tint from the mfg in?

My West System Epoxy is good if you need it. Use your tint and I will include some collated glass filler to thicken it up. Scuff up the hole then fill, allow to setup then finish. This epoxy will polish out if you needed it. If you get the tint right you will have a problem seeing where it's at.

They came in a few days ago, funny little containers.

Some backlogged (clerical) work got in the way, which I'm still finishing up on...

I'll get back to you as soon as I could.

Thanks!

 

[The Glockodile]

Finally in the process of getting it done.

Just as a recap - this is what happened after I took spacers off from the stock - only to realize that the bolt was too long as a result, and that shorter bolts should have been ordered.



You can see an outline of the shorter screw in place.



Had to stuff some gauze in, just enough to cover the screw.



The longer screw, since replaced, even punched into the cheek rest.

Should’ve been more attentive to what was happening…