Continuing Frustrations in Cold Bluing

[Clark]

I have been around cold blue for 44 years.

A bunch of old tooth brushes.
Some degreaser detergent like 'Simple Green'.
Cold blue like Oxpho Blue
Some motor oil
Scotch Brite pads

With those, I can do a good job on a rifle, but what really makes it work is bead blasting.

Bead blasted steel soaks up cold blue like fresh plowed ground soaks up pee.

And don't forget, after the Oxpho blue is turning darker all night under oil, you still have to get it out of there. Degrease and re oil the next day.

 

[Azrael256]

If you don't want to try parkerizing, come visit and I'll show you how to rust blue. It's actually not as time consuming as it sounds, and I have a whole bunch of solution you can use. I think I went through a whole teaspoon of the stuff doing my Walker.

 

[45auto]

When I did my entire 1911 in Oxpho, the slide was even and fairly dark.
The frame was not quite as "even". I don't know if that was me or whether the different "hardness" was a factor.

Looks good enough IMO. What lacks is durability and that's where a new "idea" or "formula" could help...cold blue with the durability of hot blue.

Somebody should work on that!

 

[EmGeeGeorge]

Cold Blue;

Beforeyou do it ask yourself the following;

Do you love the smell of your own gaseous eminations?

If yes, Proceed to Next Question.

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Do you love the smell of others gaseous eminations?

If yes, proceed to #1 If no proceed to #2.


#1;Cold blue away, you'll love the smell.

#2;Dont' do it! Cold Blues usually smell like farts.

 

[denster]

Cold blue with the durability of hot blue. We allready have that. It's called Van's instant blueing.

 

[Harpo]

I've had excellent results with Blue Wonder

Harpo

 

[moosehunt]

I've worked with cold blue a lot over the years. I've found that the best is Oxpho past--used with the metal as hot as you can handle it and worked with degreased 0000 steel wool. Yes, Van's has been in my trials. Oxpho paste has given the "best" results. The more times the better--20 times is not too many for a good visual result. I've used as many as 40 reps and gotten a beautiful finish. One can get a nice looking blueing job. All that said, IT WON'T WEAR! Accept that fact. It won't wear worth a hoot. Best to get it properly hot blued if you plan to do much more than look at the finished piece. But if you only want it to look good, Oxpho paste and many repititions will serve you quite well.

 

[Clark]

Like Moosehunt, I have a collection of cold blues, but come back to Oxpho.

The hot water rinse of degreaser every few minutes will keep the part warm.

I also like to power cold blue.
I put a barrel in the lathe and turn it while rubbing the cold blue in with a Scotch Brite pad. I rub hard as I can and not rub the bluing off.

 

[NC-Mike]

Plus one on the Oxpho Blue. I used it on my Sistema and it came out just fine for me. I've found too high a polish and the bluing may not take or be uneven. I finish sanded my 1911 with 320 grit paper and I believe I only went 220 on the rounded parts.

I also did a Garand and an AK with Oxpho. Here's the pics.