docwharden1881
member
Have anyone used one on a Uberti reproduction of Whitneyville Dragoon? I have a dragoon but it is cap-n-ball and not converted to .45LC/.45 Schofield.
I've always wondered about these…Do you have to get them through an FFL?
Hot damn! Those are nice!!!Here's a pair of Kirst's in 45acp-
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Here's a Ruger Old Army with a Kirst cylinder and a Bisley style hammer and trigger-
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Mike
If the conversion cylinder is actually installed in the revolver, the combination is a "firearm" and has to go through an FFL like a modern gun. But if the two components are separate, it's not a "firearm." My understanding is that that's true even if the two components are mailed to you in the same package.I've always wondered about these…Do you have to get them through an FFL?
I have the Cattleman II in .45 lC. Got the 045 ACP cyl. from Taylors. The only thing i had to do was to fit the base pin hole to the frame. Locked up perfectly. As far as powder, i use Greendot for .45 LCI've thought about a .45ACP version for a Uberti SAA; let me shoot rounds that don't demand TrailBoss powder.
These are a drop-in proposition, and they time up correctly?
Moon
Tell me a little more about this.The only thing i had to do was to fit the base pin hole to the frame.
I'm guessing the gang bangers don't see a future in six shot hoglegs, not that gun laws often engage reality.If the conversion cylinder is actually installed in the revolver, the combination is a "firearm" and has to go through an FFL like a modern gun. But if the two components are separate, it's not a "firearm." My understanding is that that's true even if the two components are mailed to you in the same package.
7.0 Bullseye for me under a 200 GR. Berrys plated RN. or 7.6 GR Greendot. 6.4 of HP38 for 230 GR lead cowboy load. These are L/C loadsTell me a little more about this.
I use 4.6/Bullseye as a softball .45 ACP load. It's maybe 50'sec behind hardball.
Moon
Just to be clear, we're talking about a cartridge conversion cylinder in a percussion revolver. Not about going from .45 LC to .45 ACP in an SAA. The gun is going to be a "firearm" regardless. (Unless it was actually made prior to 1899.) The extra cylinder is just a part.I'm guessing the gang bangers don't see a future in six shot hoglegs, not that gun laws often engage reality.
Alexander, that is amazing, and thank you.
I have Howell 5-shot conversion cylinders for both my Uberti and Euroarms (Armi San Paolo) 1858 Remingtons. The chamber walls are thicker, meaning that this design of cylinder has more reserve strength. And the safety notches are on the side of the cylinder, rather than on the back as on the percussion cylinders. So it's the bolt, and not the hammer, that locks the cylinder in the intermediate safe position. Therefore loading all 5 chambers in this type of cylinder is just as safe as loading 5 in a 6-shot cylinder.I have a Howell Conversion in .45 Colt for my Uberti 1858 New Army .44 and it works perfectly for shooting. The cylinder safety notches are too shallow to safely load all six cylinders and carry it.
I have one on an uberti carbine and one on a pietta. Bith work fine. Not much if a load in a 45 acp case but still fun.Have anyone used one on a Uberti reproduction of Whitneyville Dragoon? I have a dragoon but it is cap-n-ball and not converted to .45LC/.45 Schofield.
I have a Howell Conversion in .45 Colt for my Uberti 1858 New Army .44 and it works perfectly for shooting. The cylinder safety notches are too shallow to safely load all six cylinders and carry it. Also, actually swapping out the factory cylinder with the Howell isn't quick. But for a range toy, it is more than satisfactory.
I purchased the gun and the conversion cylinder together on the used market as a packaged set. Personally, I wouldn't buy a conversion cylinder separately for a cap 'n ball revolver. The costs associated with new conversion cylinders in no way is beneficial for a shooter other than being a cool gimmick.
The fun of cap 'n ball revolvers is using loose black powder, ball, and caps.
If I wanted to shoot cartridge ammunition, I'd shoot my cartridged guns.
And if I wanted a historically correct gun, I'd buy the factory cartridge conversion pieces like what Uberti offers.
Can't agree with that either. For me it's the difference between a regular shooter and an occasional, every couple years sort of thing. In fact, I don't even remember the last time I shot cap `n ball. I'll take the "gimmick" every time!The costs associated with new conversion cylinders in no way is beneficial for a shooter other than being a cool gimmick.
Oh look, a factory conversion. Not an aftermarket Krist or Howell conversion. If you actually read the entirety of my post. I said those are worth it.Can't agree with that either. For me it's the difference between a regular shooter and an occasional, every couple years sort of thing. In fact, I don't even remember the last time I shot cap `n ball. I'll take the "gimmick" every time!
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Nope. It began life as a full flute percussion 1860. Surely, it would've been a lot cheaper to buy a factory conversion but two things. They don't make them in .45ACP and I didn't do it to save money.Oh look, a factory conversion. Not an aftermarket Krist or Howell conversion. If you actually read the entirety of my post. I said those are worth it.
I'm taking that all you need to do is shorten the base pin cylinder bushing, to achieve a proper fit in the frame. That makes sense as not to tough a job.To fit the ACP cyl all you need is a fine mill bastard file. The cyl. comes with a over size base pin cylinder bushing that needs to be fitted to each individual frame. If you really want to do this i can PM you more details. I did this for the first time and it came out perfect.