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I assume a plated bullet? The crimp should not be enough to break through the plating if this is the case. Otherwise that looks OK to me, although I haven't pulled any pistol bullets in a long time so my memory is kinda clouded on what a crimp should look like when the bullet is pulled.
Is that a roll crimp or taper crimp? If it's a roll crimp, then you should be using a bullet with a cannelure. Even so, it ain't gonna affect much. If that's from a taper crimp on a jacketed bullet, it's probably too much. Still, it won't affect much.
It's running through a S&W Shield, Glock 26, and Ruger SR9c. The die is a lee seater. Same set up I was using with lead cast, which worked fine. I have a FCD I'll switch to that and back off the seating die.
Most revolver caliber dies roll crimp. semi auto taper crimp. Semi auto crimps should be enough to remover the flare or bell, Revolvers need enough to prevent bullet movement in the cylinders. I like pretty heavy crimps but not enough to cut into the bullet.
From the picture it does not look like to much. There will always be a line when it's crimped
you shouldn't need near that much of a taper crimp for 9mm. Make a dummy round thats backed off on the crimp and find the sweetspot where you can chamber at least 5 times without setback. Remember you aren't trying to vise the bullet with the case you just simply need enough to take off the mouth flare and prevent setback.
Yep, I switched to a taper crimp and no more scratch. I'll post pics. This is as heavy a crimp as I can go without denting the jacket. Measures .378 at the case mouth.
I've seen Winchester crimp the snot out of some of their factory rounds, and often accuracy can suffer from too much crimp. I have some plated bullets that I loaded up one time and they were all over creation, key-holing and every such abominable thing. I crimped them a little too much, and although I didn't break the coating, accuracy was still pitiful.
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