Crimping…

[blackd24]

I’m loading for 41 magnum and using a Redding profile crimp die. This is the first time I’m using this die and it seems like I have to turn the die in way too far. There’s a lot of resistance but what I’m seeing online is that the die is set up to squeeze the brass tight and then crimp. But it is much different than the LFC where there is less “contact” before crimping.

is this too much crimp? Middle of the road “mild” magnum load.

 

[blackd24]

You can see in the picture there is a distinct line where the brass enters the “tight” part of the die. Then the obvious crimp at the end of the handle travel.

I just want to make sure this is normal. Redding suggests a little bit of lube so this would probably help with the resistance.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. I think crimping is by far the hardest part of reloading. Too little, too much, unnecessary for this, required for that.

 

[blackd24]

I’ll also add the case mouth measurement on the outside is .425 after crimping.

 

[ms6852]

Looks good to me, but difficult to discern for me if there is deformation of the bullet because of the color and lighting. If there is a little deformation back off about 1/2 a turn on your die, otherwise it looks like a good crimp.

 

[mdi]

Looks OK to me (I've used a 44 Magnum Profile crimp for over 30 years). Perhaps back it off a bit to see how that looks, but your crimp looks good to go. IIRC the profile crimp had a kinda taper crimp just ahead of the roll and that's what the "tightness" you feel. Don't insult the Profile Crimp Die by comparing it to an FCD!

 

[FROGO207]

The way I do it with revolver rounds is to start with a cylinder of ammo and measure length of the last one that will be left before, shoot the others and see if the bullet moves out any on that round. If not, that crimp is OK. If so, you need a harder crimp. A harder crimp is indicated if you get dirty burn of propellant. It can be confusing. That looks like a decent hard crimp. If you overdo it you can buckle the brass neck.

 

[Y-T71]

The way I do it with revolver rounds is to start with a cylinder of ammo and measure length of the last one that will be left before, shoot the others and see if the bullet moves out any on that round. If not, that crimp is OK. If so, you need a harder crimp. A harder crimp is indicated if you get dirty burn of propellant. It can be confusing. That looks like a decent hard crimp. If you overdo it you can buckle the brass neck.

IMO, this is a smart way of tackling the "crimp question" (as well as proper case tension)

As far as your initial set up of your crimp die; I agree with the others, looks good to me for a middle of the road "mild" magnum load.

 

[Walkalong]

What does the crimp groove on the bullet look like? That affects the finished crimp.

Two samples of differing crimp grooves.

 

[blackd24]

More like the first, not like a SWC. But this is part of the problem… to my eyes, those crimps look almost identical.

 

[Walkalong]

Close, one has a sharper angle, but the point is the case tends to follow the crimp groove of the bullet, well, unless you crush the bullet with the crimp.

 

[243winxb]

I’ll also add the case mouth measurement on the outside is .425 after crimping.

SAAMI shows a 41 case body with very little taper, about .0009" The brass mouth should be compressed so it just makes contact with the bullets crimp groove. Roll crimp.

Set COL first, no crimp. Back off seat plug. Apply crimp turning die down by hand, till it will not turn more. Done.

Crimp over done. Neck tension keeps bullets from moving. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...4-can-be-over-done-resulting-in-a-bulge.4806/

Never used a profile crimp die, RCBS has been getting it done for many years, for me.

 

[__steve__]

The crimping looks much better than the photography. I’m still getting the hang of crimping too, it’s a continual process.

 

[gwpercle]

What the die does is first put a sort of "Taper " crimp on the bullet sides , the resistance you feel at first and you can see it is fairly long section , then at the end of the taper crimp section it does a "Roll" crimp . I'll be honest the 2 crimps in 1 Die may seem to be a good idea but I like standard roll crimp or taper crimp in separate dies .
A good taper crimp may hold ... you may not need to go all the way to the roll crimp part .
I apply crimp untill the bullet will stay in place when I push the nose into the edge of the bench , then add 1/4 turn more and shoot 5 rounds and see if crimp holds . If not apply 1/4 turn more crimp and test . Have a crimp that holds and no more ... brass will last longer ... and a Taper Crimp will hold revolver bullet , just test them first .

From where I sit your crimp looks good ... can you push the bullet any deeper with your thumb ?
Gary

 

[Riomouse911]

Looks good to me. Should be plenty tight.

Stay safe.