I'm reloading 38s & .357s. I'm using a Lee die set and using the die that seats & then can also crimp, in this case just enough to remove the bell that was created to seat the bullet & then maybe a tad more. I notice at times i start to get a crimp that looks like an indent into the brass rather than just a roll crimp. Is this because i'm using a die that is not a dedicated crimp die, and should i be concerned that i'm not really getting a pronounced roll crimp ? I'm not shooting max loads and accuracy doesn't seem to be affected. Its just that my "crimp" doesn't look as pretty as some i've seen on this site.
Crimping .38/.357
- Thread starter beefyz
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rfwobbly
Member
Agree with Murf on this one. The finished look of the "roll" is highly dependent upon how much of the case enters the die. Therefore different length cases come out rolled to different degrees. Keep playing with the setting of the die body by very small increments and you'll find a point that accommodates the longest cases, while still doing OK on the shortest.
Reloadron
Contributing Member
I also agree as to case length playing the key roll. I like to start with all my cases equal then I get all my crimps equal and uniform.
Ron
Ron
Make sure the case mouth is getting crimped into the middle of the cannelure or into the crimp groove properly. If the case lengths vary too much the case mouths won't be consistent enough as to where they end up in relation to those things.
IWAC
Member
An RCBS tech told me that a factory crimp was an "overcrimp" and the pretty roll crimps we see (or used to see ) in reloading manuals and gunzine articles about reloading are Not Good! Be that as it may, I like to crimp the case mouth so it is flush with or slightly inside a cast bullet's first band (like the above example) so there is nothing to hang up with speed loading, and taper crimp, with a slight "bump" against the crimper at the end of the press stroke, the take any flare out of the reloaded brass, when loading plated bullets with no cannelure. IMNHO, both of the finished rounds on the right in both photeaux above are handsome reloads! To be consistent, you do need to trim every so often.
OK guys... might have seen the problem already. I never checked these case lengths. I thought, seeing it written so many times on this site before "Oh, I never check the case lengths for pistol" that it wasn't necessary. So that will be taken care of during the next batch of reloads. W, I aim to crimp like in your pictures above. About the Lee seating AND crimping die though; i'm a rifleman and never crimp as opposed to the occasional pistol work I do. Isn't there a specific crimping die in some pistol die sets which I assume would give a "better" crimp ? With the amount of pistol shooting I do i'll measure out all the cases and stick with the Lee set, but was just curious if you pistol guys use a dedicated crimping die. By the way, it wasn't asked or mentioned, but I seat all first and then come back to crimp, 2 separate steps.
For a consistent roll crimp, uniform case length is important so you do need to trim the cases.
With a taper crimp, consistent case length is not so important.
I crimp with a separate crimp die in a separate step, but seating and crimping in the same step also gives great results.
With a taper crimp, consistent case length is not so important.
I crimp with a separate crimp die in a separate step, but seating and crimping in the same step also gives great results.
buck460XVR
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I have more than one reloading manual because I tend to not trust just one source of information. One so called "factory tech" opinion vs those from multiple manuals and experts? Guess who I'll go with? Amount of crimp can have very little or very much to do with ammo performance, depending on caliber and/or platform. Some slow burning magnum handgun powders need a heavy crimp to help with consistent ignition. In a magnum revolver with heavy loads it's needed to prevent bullet jump under recoil. Folks that regularly load for big bore hand cannons know this all too well. Someone who only loads for small bore, auto loaders or powder puff loads would not.
I do...I've tried it both ways and prefer to crimp with a separate die.
When using a combo die (set & crimp), adjusting seating depth doesn't affect crimp, but adjusting the amount of crimp applied usually does affect the seating depth.
Having recently gone to a Redding Competition Seating die, it is no longer an option...it wasn't designed to apply any crimp...but setting accurate seating depth is just a joy now
RealGun
Member
I always keep a dummy round for recalibrating COL after crimp adjustment, so any crimp change on a combo die should be preceded by backing off the seating depth adjustment.
I find it helpful to assess the amount of roll using an empty case. I can learn a lot without having to use a puller to recover a test bullet.
gonoles_1980
Member
It's easier for me to use a separate crimping die. I can tell the taller casing with opening the mouth for the bullet, it's a much lighter push. I put those to the front of the line, and those are the ones I seat first. Even with the small crimp groove that Speer lead bullets have, that makes sure I get the right crimp. I use the roll on lead bullets for the 38 and 357, and a taper on the copper plated bullets. I crimp enough so I don't get crimp jump on the 357, just use the same crimp on the 38's (I use the washer when I do 357's, no washer with 38's).
RealGun
Member
My choice of whether or not to crimp separately is based upon the number of stations I have available on my Lee Classic Turret (4). I choose to do ALL operations on the press. I am also limited by what is offered in RCBS Cowboy die sets, my mainstay for any lead bullets in all the calibers supported. The only time I get to crimp separately is volume loading on my Hornady LnL or when loading plated/jacketed or undersized lead bullets, then forgoing an expander die in favor of letting the powder measure do it at an acceptable diameter.
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