Custom gun build questions

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hellmut

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Hello Gents,

I have a couple of quick and easy questions but first a little background..

I am looking at my first custom build. I know a little about firearms but just enough to get me confused I'd say. I am wanting the "perfect" all-around deer/mountain rifle for me and I cannot find it factory so I'm looking at building one. I settled on a 7mm-08 over a .308. I understand the differences and like both but 7-08 it is. I have a .223 and .243 for smaller critters and a 7mm Rem Mag for biguns...so I need a gap filler. I am wanting something with a shorter 20-21" barrel (not light and not bull). Maybe 1.5-2 contour? That's the biggest factor on buying a factory lightweight all ready to go. Also stuck on having 10 rd mags (conversion kit likely). Why? Because I can :evil: That narrows down to a rem 700, savage 10/stevens 200, or howa 1500, or steyr action. I can get a Stevens 200 in .308 for $299.

My question is....the Stevens 200 in .308 will shoot 7-08 with a new 7-08barrel, correct? I buy that gun, drop in a Timney, add an ER Shaw (or equivalent) barrel, get the mag conversion and a custom stock for the action/mag conversion and I should be good to go??? Any takers? Thanks!

This is asssuming the Stevens 200 is the same action as the Savage 10. In other words...the stocks and mag kit for the 10 should fit the 200 just the same??
 
The Stevens 200 is the Savage action without the accu-trigger, so most parts are the same. If they specify pre or post accutrigger in the description then you want the PRE accutrigger version.

Only thing to verify is the action length. I'm not absolutely positive but I think the Stevens 200's in short-action cartridges MAY be a long-action with a spacer rather than a true short-action. Someone with more knowledge on them would need to confirm that though.
 
The only stevens 200 S ive handled was a true short action (well med as its some 3.2"). Ive read that the 4.40 stocks fit them, but have not direct experience.
 
Ok, that's something I need to research then. If I'm lucky maybe I can get savage to respond on that. So..to "dummy" this down for me...the main concern is actual action length when buying a stock...short vs. long.

Other than that...that .308 action won't need any mods (other than barrel) to shoot 7-08, correct?
 
Here is a tidbit I found at www.boydsgunstocks.com. Thank you...

NOTE: The Savage Models 11, 12 & 16 AND Stevens 200 Short Action have the same action as the Model 10; this Short Action measures 7 1/4"
from Center to Center on the action screws or 4.275 from front trigger guard screw to front action screw.
The Savage Models 111, 112 & 116 AND Stevens 200 Long Action have the same action as the Model 110; this Long Action measures 8"
from Center to Center on the Trigger guard screws or 5.062 from front trigger guard screw to front action screw.
For Savage 10 and 110 and Stevens 200 Models: Action screws used to manufacture Boyds' stocks are for wood stocked firearms.
These screws are longer than the screws used on synthetic stocked firearms. New screws can be ordered directly from Savage.
 
your correct on work, or lack there of, need on the .308 action. There are some little after market tidbits i know a number people toss in when doing custom savage stuff, over sized recoil lug etc.
The 4.275 hole spacing is for the older staggered box magazines, my new centerfeed has a 4.40 hole spacing. Untill recently i was under the impression that the 200 still used the old 4.275 spacing, but have read recently that it matches the 4.40. Honestly i WOULD contact savage (or boyds for that mater, ive bought from them they are good) just to be 100 percent, no point in ordering a stock that dosent fit when a phone call will give you exactly the info you need.
 
Perfect. You guys have been helpful. I sure appreciate it. There's only 1 Stevens left so I had better grab it and work the details out later. Thanks!
 
Best find out if you can use 10-round mags for deer hunting in your state first.

Lots of states, you can't.

rc
 
We can here in MO. Really, there's no need for it other than having the ammo handy rather than in your pocket or something. I hardly shoot more than once...ever. But....like I said...it's an all purpose rifle and I just like the option. Thank you...
 
I thought of that. Like Ruger's too. Only problem I see is the barrel mounted scope :confused:
 
+1

IMO: A scout scope is the way to go, so you can keep the back-up iron sights.
Not to mention that they work exceptionally well!

But if not, a conventional scope fits right on the receiver dovetails using regular Ruger rings.

rc
 
I would go with your original idea with the stevens. You will have a more accurate rifle than with the ruger. Rugers are better but still not close to what a modern bolt rifle should do accuracy wise.
 
I'm finding out rather quickly that some of you here know more about guns that many people would deem almost scary.

Please, carry on......:D
 
most (if not all) of the new box stock rugers ive shot have been 1-1.5" rifles. I dont see that being an issue for a hunting weight rifle. Also, most of the savages ive shot/own, are 1" or better rifles.

Hellmut, If you DO want to keep the scout rail, a decent gunsmith should be able to duplicate the barrel profile on your new barrel, drill/tap and attache the mount. If you prefer normal scope mounting, then do as Jmr suggested and just pop the rear sights.

The only problem i see with going the GSR rout is if you DONT keep the barrel, rail, and flash hidder, your paying for alot of extras your going to ditch.
 
Rugers are better but still not close to what a modern bolt rifle should do accuracy wise.
Click to expand...

They're hit and miss, in my experience.

With a Remington or Savage, you can pretty well bet on a sub-MOA factory gun. With the ruger, you might get lucky, you might not. I did with my .220 Swift, but have known others who weren't as fortunate. My other M77, a pre-Mk II in 6mm Rem. shoots about 1.2 MOA on average.

That said, if you rebarrel, it's really a non-issue.

I'd still go with an M700, though. That'll be the platform for my next varmint rig in 6mm-06 AI.
 
....you know it probably wouldnt cost a whole lot more to rebarrel THAT to 7-08.
Click to expand...

I think it will cost a whole lot more to rebarrel the Ruger, money that could be spent on a higher quality barrel. The cost to rebarrel a Savage/Stevens is $25 for a go gauge and $20-30 for a barrel nut wrench depending on which one you buy. I know because I just did my first one a couple of weeks ago. I don't know of a gunsmith that will rebarrel the Ruger for anywhere near that price, and if you start talking about custom contouring a barrel to keep the same scout rail then add a bunch more to it.
 
My local smith charges 150 to turn in a barrel, and finish ream. I dont know what it costs elsewhere. An custom contouring is going to cost, no mater WHAT action its going in. You really should have both a go and no go gauge for doing a barrel install, just to be safe, so your looking at 60+ bucks for the tools (if i remeber correctly, i paid 80ish from midway for go/nogo and wheeler wrench). Ive never asked what a smith would charge to do a finish reamed barrel install on a savage, but the 10-30 mins it takes shouldnt be much more then 50 bucks.
 
Sorry gents...had to step out for a bit. Had a hot date!
Anyway, all you guys have some great points. The 7mm RM that I have is a MkII. I just got it from an uncle so I'm still playing with loads. The gun before it was exactly the same but in 30'06. She was sub-moa with Federal Premium 180 gr Trophy Bonded Tips. I like them and I like that Scout....BUT...me being particular in this case I just don't think I want to go that route on this gun. I like having iron sights as backup but I also like having a reciever mounted scope. Better field of view and it wont mess with harmonics. Now, I don't need a sniper rifle but I want my gun to be inherently more accurate than me (which MOA is in most deer shooting) and if I'm going custom...why not have it sub-moa for sure? It feels good and makes you confident. Maybe I'm being too particular but,,,that's why we customize stuff! And I may want to shoot dogs or an antelope at 500 yds some day. A couple hundred dollars either way isn't squat as long as I'm happy with the end product. I'd rather forgoe iron sights (that I'll PROBABLY never use) for the sake of a custom barrel that is the exact length, twist, and contour for me and that gun. Now, if I could find a barrel maker that can do all that with fluting AND put iron sights on I'll dig a little deeper in me pocket. But, in the end, she's mostly gonna be a Midwestern woods/cornfield deer slayer...and one I will want to pass down to my grandkids probably.

Now...if I could get a barrel on that ruger for a fair price and mount the scope solid on the receiver I'm game. But...with my Savage build I'm probably less $ with more aftermarket options.

Stevens 200= $299
New Custom Barrel= $350 (?)
Timney= $110
CDI Trigger Kit= $210
2-10rd DBM= $160
Custom Stock= $140
Misc.=$100

We're looking at roughly $1300-1400 when it's done...and it will be exactly what I want. I was hoping to be around $1k. I just don't think that Ruger can be changed out for the same $. Heck, the gun is around $900-$1k and like LoonWolf said...I'm throwing good $ away on the barrel it comes with.

IDK...too many dang options!
 
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