D/SA Revolver Won't Always Rotate?

[Ktm4]

Hey all,

I have an old H&R (I know, half of the problem is right there) 732, and the cylinder will rotate in DA... but if you try SA, it will most of the time (90%) not even wiggle. Occasionally, working the hammer extremely slow will rotate the cylinder, but that doesn't work much.

With the cylinder open and you cycle the action, the arm does protrude 100% of the time. The ratchet does have a few small burrs on the edge of the teeth, but for the most part, seems to be sharp and in good shape where the arm makes contact. As for the arm... That also seems to be in decent shape. The arm spring did seem a little rough when it was all stripped down but if it works still works in DA, would that arm spring really act any different in SA?

Hopefully someone has ran into a similar problem and may have a few ideas as to what it may be. Thanks all!!

 

[RaceM]

Check the bottom edge of the lifter where it contacts the hammer and the edge of the hammer that picks it up in single action. If either is rounded off, the lifter will skip off the hammer.

 

[Jim K]

No, the hand ("arm") spring should function the same way DA or SA. But I suspect that is your problem, possibly the spring is weak or the hand is not installed properly.

The problem is that many gunsmiths won't work on H&R's since the frustration level is higher than the compensation, so you may have a DIY project ahead in getting that gun to work.

Jim

 

[N.Schafer]

In DA, the hand is moved directly by the trigger pull. In SA, the hammer moves the trigger moves the hand. This slight variation in movement is enough to throw timing off if the hand spring does not have the proper adjustment for forward tension or is worn out.

Adjusting the hand spring may fix it if it is in decent condition. Fitting a new hand will as well.

P.S. I am a gunsmith and I do work on them. I also have many H&R parts on hand.

 

[Ktm4]

I had a hand shipped from Numrich and installed it... Still getting the same results. It's as if the spring is not pushing it forward enough to always catch the ratchet, but how can that be fixed? Is there some tweaking to the spring that I must do before I install it or something?

 

[N.Schafer]

Yes there is. The bottom 1/8" of the spring should be bent forward at about 25*-30*. Not curved but an actual bend.
If it is not, take some needle nose and bend it. Hopefully I explained that well enough.You should see how this will give it more forward tension. I can try to post a picture if you still need help.

 

[entropy]

Replace the spring. It can't be that expensive, and as long as you are 'going in', new parts are better. (Uless you enjoy taking the lockplate off.)

 

[Steve2md]

I had the same problem with mine. A new hand spring fixed it