De-Lead soap?

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Interesting concept, I don't regularly roll around in lead dust, but sometimes do get a lot of range grime embedded.
I never remember to put on the gloves until my hands are filthy, either.

I think I'll give the abrasive version a try - it's on Amazon prime and not too terribly expensive.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_sr_industrial?field-brandtextbin=D-Lead&node=16310091

We'll see if it works signifigantly better than the abrasive orange-clean I currently use.
 
bigfatdave said:
Interesting concept, I don't regularly roll around in lead dust, but sometimes do get a lot of range grime embedded.
I never remember to put on the gloves until my hands are filthy, either.

I think I'll give the abrasive version a try - it's on Amazon prime and not too terribly expensive.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_sr_industrial?field-brandtextbin=D-Lead&node=16310091

We'll see if it works signifigantly better than the abrasive orange-clean I currently use.
Click to expand...

That one, the 16 oz, is exactly what I have.

It does 'feel' basically the same as Orange Goop and other products of this type you are likely to find in a gearhead's garage/bathroom.

The de-lead instructions do not say to apply the soap before getting your hands wet, though.
 
Thanks for the input, everyone. Especially to RetiredUSNChief for the in depth information.

Sounds like the length of time you wash may be just as important as what you wash with.
 
FWIW any good soap is a surfactant and will work to float surface contamination away in the rinse water. Its up to the user to supply the necessary physical scrubbing action to loosen contamination particles from the skin. OTOH, as note4d elsewhere, why not use latex/nitrile gloves as a barrier ? Cheap, disposable and functional ! >MW
 
Latex does fine as long as there's no solvent exposure to destroy it. With any solvent it will breakdown quickly.

OTOH, if you have a latex allergy you want to stay away from any latex material. Don't know if you have a latex allergy and don't want to find out the hard way? Start with and stick with nitrile.
 
I generally don't use any solvents when reloading. That's all taken care of before.
Then again, I don't reload enough to wear gloves. I just wash well.

Don't know if you have a latex allergy and don't want to find out the hard way?
Click to expand...

I can certainly think of at least one worse way to find out!
 
nipprdog said:
:rolleyes:

Again, NO latex! Nitrile only. Latex will not protect you. Google "latex glove lawsuits". ;)
Click to expand...

Also, one might do well to remember that petroleum products (such as gun oils and petroleum penetrants/cleaners) and latex do not work well together.

There is a reason why non-petroleum lubricants are supposed to be used with latex condoms, you know. Same thing applies to latex gloves.

:neener:
 
I work at a battery plant and we make lead/acid batteries. we get tested for blood/lead levels constantly and have a lead testing liquid that turns red if there is any lead... to make sure no lead is left on our skin. we have to shower before we leave work every day. the company used to supply D-lead soap but after some testing found that regular foaming soap cleans lead up better actually. our plant now only supplies regular foaming soap.

best thing to do is make sure you later the soap up good. too many people like to use too much soap and therefor it doesn't lather/foam up. if it doesn't lather/foam up... you aren't doing much if any good.
 
Again, NO latex! Nitrile only. Latex will not protect you. Google "latex glove lawsuits".
Click to expand...
I'm fairly certain it's a darn sight better than going barefoot ;). Guns are sharp/pointy, so whatever you use will be chewed up; the point is cheap, disposable gloves to keep the bulk of chemicals (lead and otherwise) off your skin. Nitrile is basically the same stuff (same chemical, different isomer/manufacturing process) and is only slightly better at not dissolving in acetone. Extended/strong acetone exposure will leave it as weak as a wet paper bag, and anything stronger will go right through it, though. I think it mainly doesn't tear quite as easily (a real problem after talc powder was removed from latex gloves for allergy/asbestos concerns). Who's cleaning their guns with Acetone and transmission fluid as a matter of course, though? :confused:

Fun fact; extended solvent exposure is not only carcinogenic, but will also screw with your skin pores' ability to generate oils that keep your hands moist, requiring the constant application lotion or risk painful/bleeding skin cracks --for the rest of your life :evil:

Has anyone mentioned Frog Lube? It's supposedly non toxic, the best thing ever, and even tastes good (or something to that effect :D)

TCB
 
I'm thinking of buying some of the D-lead wet or dry hand cleaner to put in my car. There's no running water anywhere I shoot and this might be worth the investment just to keep the lead grime off my steering wheel, clothes, etc.
 
Elkins45 said:
I'm thinking of buying some of the D-lead wet or dry hand cleaner to put in my car. There's no running water anywhere I shoot and this might be worth the investment just to keep the lead grime off my steering wheel, clothes, etc.
Click to expand...

Be sure to get these D-Lead wipes, they don't dry out like the ones in the canister. By the way, if you don't think you'll want that quantity, just split the cost and the wipes with some of your shooting buddies like I did.
 
wacki said:
Find out the ingredients. Can you take a picture of the ingredient list and post? Almost all liquid soaps are based off of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate.

Is this the soap?

https://www.esca-tech.com/ProductDetail.php?category=1000&productnum=4222ES

I can email them for the MSDS but I'm not seeing anything from a chemistry point of view (yet) that says "hey, this is different".
Click to expand...
D-Lead hand soap, made by Esca Tech Inc., Milwaukee.

Here are the ingredients, per the bottle:

Water, Sodium laureth sulfate, Sodium linear alkyl sulfonate, Cocamidopropyl betaine, Sodium phosphonate, Sodium chloride, Cocamide DEA, Parachlorometaxylenol, Propylene glycol, Fragrance, D7C Red #27.
 
twofifty said:
D-Lead hand soap, made by Esca Tech Inc., Milwaukee.

Here are the ingredients, per the bottle:

Water, Sodium laureth sulfate, Sodium linear alkyl sulfonate, Cocamidopropyl betaine, Sodium phosphonate, Sodium chloride, Cocamide DEA, Parachlorometaxylenol, Propylene glycol, Fragrance, D7C Red #27.
Click to expand...

Interesting:

Sodium laureth sulfate: An anionic detergent and surfactant and foaming agent. Soap, in other words.

Sodium linear alkyl sulfonate: An anionic surfacant. Soap, in other words.

Cocamidopropyl betaine: An organic compound derived from coconut oil and used as a surfactant. Soap, in other words.

Sodium phosphonate: A salt of sodium hydroxide and phosphoric acid. Used primarily as a food preservative. Here it's used as an emulsifier; in other words, it helps make oils mix better with water. Basically enhances the ability of soap to do the same.

Sodium chloride: Table salt. Generally added during soap making process to precipitate and purifying the soap after the saponification reaction is complete.

Cocamide DEA: Another compound derived from coconut oil, used as a foaming agent and emulsifier. Enhances the ability of soap to do it's job.

Parachlorometaxylenol: An antimicrobial compound.

Propylene glycol: A humectant, which helps the skin to absorb moisture by carrying water-based ingredients into the skin with it.

Fragrance: Stinky stuff that is supposed to make the soap smell good.

D7C Red #27: Coloring substance that is supposed to make the soap look a pleasing color.


But I don't see anything here which could be classified as a "chelating agent", specifically tasked with binding to metals. It just seems to be a soap with lots of really good soapy stuff in it. Which would, of course, make it a decent cleaning agent.
 
Thanks for assessing that list Chief.

Is it possible that combining 3 surfactants and 1 emulsifier enhances the lifting and cleansing action?
 
I think you guys are over-thinking this. Just buy the stuff, use it and spend your time training. :D And no, I'm not affiliated with the company.
 
twofifty said:
Thanks for assessing that list Chief.

Is it possible that combining 3 surfactants and 1 emulsifier enhances the lifting and cleansing action?
Click to expand...

Certainly. This is how and why there are so many different soaps out there to choose from...everybody's got their own formula.

As soaps go, I'm pretty sure it's a good one. The question is, does it really do that good of a job at removing lead as compared to other soaps?


I suspect that unless someone has access to something to test skin for lead, like javjacob does at his job, we won't really know the answer to that.

I'm googling this to see what products might be available to people to do just that, but I'm not having much luck right now. Maybe javjacob can help with a name for this testing liquid he mentioned.


EDIT:

I finally did find some info on testing kits that might work for this purpose:

http://www.diytrade.com/china/pd/5390998/Lead_Fast_Testing_Kit.html

http://www.rrprenovatortraining.com/training/images/Lead Swab Kit_RRP.PDF

http://leadcheck.com/products/leadcheck-products/leadcheck-swabs
 
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I agree that something seems to be missing. Is it possible that there was another active ingredient besides the soapy stuff listed in another place?
 
Waking up a dormant thread to add some data. I bought a jug of D-Lead soap cheap on eBay. I can say that when using it after shooting, cleaning guns or handling lead bullets while loading that it does indeed seem to remove the black stains on my hands faster and more completely than other bar or liquid soaps.

I don't know if that's indicative of its lead removal abilities, but it does seem to be a superior soap for removing the kinds of hand grunge that gun cleaning and shooting generates. FWIW
 
Thanks for the reminder, I never updated.

I got the 16oz bottle from Amazon.
It seems to work a bit better than abrasive Orange Clean. I have no way to measure before/after lead, but it seems to remove everything and doesn't leave my hands dried out or chapped.

I'm not touting it as a miracle product, but I'll be using it after range time or gun cleaning.
 
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