Hugger-4641
Member
If I didn't have check blocks, I'd probably just use a transfer punch or roller bearing as a gauge and to check my calipers.
If you were a machinist and you were going to use them everyday I’d say buy Mitutoyo or Starrett but just for reloading I’d say buy anything made in the USA Japan or Switzerland. Check on eBay for some older ones that are like new or NOS. You’ll pay less for brands like NSK or Fowler or Tesa and they’ll be good quality.
Where was this helpful bit of advice a few weeks back when I was looking???
I wound up with Hornady dial calipers from Midway. Seem to be doing OK. A couple things I noticed.......when watching videos by RCBS, etc, all their tech guys were using dial calipers. Good enough for them, it was good enough for me.
Simply that calipers as far as precision tools go are the least precise but cheap and handy to use.
$120 for a set might seem really expensive to folks that only own tape measures but when compared to a $500 bore micrometer or a $12,000 set of micrometers, they are cheap and not as accurate.
If you want precision measurements you use precision tools.
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Calipers are “accurate enough” for most reloading chores, meaning more precision isn’t necessary for them.
You could measure your, say seating depth to .000002 but it wouldn’t matter because you can already tell they are not that precise just using your calipers...
WHAT discussion on zeroing?Where the heck were you during the discussion on zeroing?
At work I mostly use Mitutoyo digitals, the new solar powered digitals are awesome since the batteries never go dead.
WHAT discussion on zeroing?
Wipe the jaws clean. Hold up with a strong light behind & close the jaws. There should be NO light seepage anywhere along the jaws out to the tip. Lock the slide. Turn the dial to zero, or press the "Zero" button (or "Origin").