CMV
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Looks like 1050 is still around but they are same price. Is 1100 better, or just different design? i.e. if both available at same price good reason to pick one over the other?
Dillon 1050 vs 1100
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CMV
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Still mulling this over....is there a big advantage of one vs the other since they seem similar and same price?
Jim Watson
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I suspect they are just selling 1050 while the inventory of presses and parts lasts. Makes no sense to keep two such similar machines in the lineup.
Similarly, when I wanted to upgrade, the 1050 and the Super 1050 were both still cataloged. But by the time I made up my mind, the Super was all there was.
Similarly, when I wanted to upgrade, the 1050 and the Super 1050 were both still cataloged. But by the time I made up my mind, the Super was all there was.
jmorris
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The RL 1100 looks al awful lot like the RL 1050 that was a design put out to pasture when the Super 1050 took its place.
The large eccentric and bearing likely cost more to make than the aluminum linkage and they didn’t have sufficient stroke for some of the longer rifle rounds.
Some of the RL parts had become scarce, maybe the new RL 1100 with fix that.
As far as longevity the RL seems more robust to me being iron vs aluminum actuating the ram and much larger bearing. The Forchet rotary conversion uses an eccentric on the Super or RL and reduces the stroke on the Super.
RL 1050 on the left, Super on the right.
This is a Super I converted to rotary prepping brass.
The large eccentric and bearing likely cost more to make than the aluminum linkage and they didn’t have sufficient stroke for some of the longer rifle rounds.
Some of the RL parts had become scarce, maybe the new RL 1100 with fix that.
As far as longevity the RL seems more robust to me being iron vs aluminum actuating the ram and much larger bearing. The Forchet rotary conversion uses an eccentric on the Super or RL and reduces the stroke on the Super.
RL 1050 on the left, Super on the right.
This is a Super I converted to rotary prepping brass.
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1KPerDay
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Why would they do this???
jmorris
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It’s all the stroke they can get out of the eccentric, in that frame.
That’s why they created the linkage on the right in the first photo above. Why did they not just make a bigger frame and eccentric? It was cheaper just to make the linkage with the casting they already had.
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CMV
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So a 1050 would be the better choice?
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CMV
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Between the 2 machines. Which is better? Sounds like you’re saying the 1050 has stronger parts. I don’t lost anything bigger than 308win
jmorris
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There are 2 different Dillon 1050’s. The only one they currently sell is the “Super 1050”, it replaced the “RL” 1050 that looks very much like the “New” RL 1100. Although I have 3 Supers now that run great after many, many thousands of rounds, I still think the “RL” is the better design. If you don’t need the longer stroke, all being equal, I’d go with the RL, if you do need the longer stroke, it’s out of the question.
lordpaxman
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I’m also pondering the 1050 vs 1100 question. I load 30-06 on a single stage and not looking to do those on a progressive. Here’s Dillon’s information from their web page. I was under the impression the 1100 had a few minor improvements over the 1050, that is those “after market” parts to make it smoother?
The Dillon Precision RL 1100 features include the following :
The Dillon Precision RL 1100 features include the following :
- Eccentric Roller Bearing Drive System
- Smoother Operation, Less Effort
- Heavier Frame for Greater Rigidity
- Upgraded Primer Pocket Swager
- User-Replaceable Swage Rod Tip
- Spring-Loaded Priming Station Locator
- Reinforced Toolhead Bolt & Washer
- Improved Shellplate Indexing System
- 1050 Caliber-Conversion Compatible
- Two Year Warranty
jmorris
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As above, going back to the RL 1050 eccentric, if you don’t need the stroke is a good idea.
The removable swage rod tip sounds like a neat idea.
But there is no lock nut on the tip so I’d prefer one of the older ones and the one piece construction. Once you know how much is involved in changing primer sizes on a 1050/1100 it won’t make much difference anyway and if you are wearing them out, you will want to get a tool steel one, that too will be one piece.
The spring loaded primer station locator also sounds like a good idea, like the one on the 550 and 650.
vs the solid one on the RL 1050 and Super 1050.
On the 550 and 650, priming takes place on the handle up/ram down stroke opposite of where everything else happens. So if a primer doesn’t “feel” right going into the pocket, one can raise the ram slightly and remove the case easily.
On the machines we are talking about priming takes place while everything else is also happening, why the swage station exists, you can’t feel the primer seat, it is seated to a depth set with an Allen wrench before hand.
Even if you could feel, what then? Disengage the ratchet to remove the case via the spring loaded wire? Only if you clear every other case from the shell plate too.
I don’t really see an advantage on that one either.
This is new too.
I have never neeed anything other than the machined stop on my 1050’s. Manufacturing tolerance variations are the only reason I can think this would now be needed. Seems odd to me.
The removable swage rod tip sounds like a neat idea.
But there is no lock nut on the tip so I’d prefer one of the older ones and the one piece construction. Once you know how much is involved in changing primer sizes on a 1050/1100 it won’t make much difference anyway and if you are wearing them out, you will want to get a tool steel one, that too will be one piece.
The spring loaded primer station locator also sounds like a good idea, like the one on the 550 and 650.
vs the solid one on the RL 1050 and Super 1050.
On the 550 and 650, priming takes place on the handle up/ram down stroke opposite of where everything else happens. So if a primer doesn’t “feel” right going into the pocket, one can raise the ram slightly and remove the case easily.
On the machines we are talking about priming takes place while everything else is also happening, why the swage station exists, you can’t feel the primer seat, it is seated to a depth set with an Allen wrench before hand.
Even if you could feel, what then? Disengage the ratchet to remove the case via the spring loaded wire? Only if you clear every other case from the shell plate too.
I don’t really see an advantage on that one either.
This is new too.
I have never neeed anything other than the machined stop on my 1050’s. Manufacturing tolerance variations are the only reason I can think this would now be needed. Seems odd to me.
GE-Mini-Gun
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No idea what you’re doing nor how much you will be reloading…but my thoughts. Unless your loading crimped brass and only one caliber the 1050 isn’t worth it…other will disagree, but I’ve ran both side by side doing the same load…1050 isn’t worth the money. Get the 750 instead…
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CMV
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I have a 650 and it goes pretty fast when everything is right. But I do mostly 9mm & .223. About a 30cal can of each per month, and then just one-time setups for lesser use stuff as needed.
But not really possible to keep crimped brass from getting in my mix. Private range, but I'm not inspecting 100% of my friends' ammo & telling them they can't shoot this or that (but do make them shoot 380 or steel case way off in the grass somewhere it won't get picked up).
As it is, when i do 223, I tear the 650 down and turn it into a case prep with swage-it (yeah, I know...) and RT 1100 trimmer. Just kind of PIA running everything thru prep pass, then setup for a loading pass. With 9mm I don't do that since the crimps aren't quite as bad, but do cause primers to go in sideways sometimes & I don't always feel that. So there's a separate look-at-every-primer step after filling the Akro bin since a sideways squished primer will ignite & squib, lodging bullet in barrel.
So volume-wise, I probably don't need a 1050/1100. I'd really, really like the inline swage on everything and the one-pass 223 loading.
Not sure....mull it over often and have been thinking about getting 1050 or 1100 for a while now, just haven't done it. I also don't consider reloading as a fun hobby (sometimes it is). I often find myself viewing it as a chore that needs to be done, so it would be nice to have something that loads more efficiently.
But not really possible to keep crimped brass from getting in my mix. Private range, but I'm not inspecting 100% of my friends' ammo & telling them they can't shoot this or that (but do make them shoot 380 or steel case way off in the grass somewhere it won't get picked up).
As it is, when i do 223, I tear the 650 down and turn it into a case prep with swage-it (yeah, I know...) and RT 1100 trimmer. Just kind of PIA running everything thru prep pass, then setup for a loading pass. With 9mm I don't do that since the crimps aren't quite as bad, but do cause primers to go in sideways sometimes & I don't always feel that. So there's a separate look-at-every-primer step after filling the Akro bin since a sideways squished primer will ignite & squib, lodging bullet in barrel.
So volume-wise, I probably don't need a 1050/1100. I'd really, really like the inline swage on everything and the one-pass 223 loading.
Not sure....mull it over often and have been thinking about getting 1050 or 1100 for a while now, just haven't done it. I also don't consider reloading as a fun hobby (sometimes it is). I often find myself viewing it as a chore that needs to be done, so it would be nice to have something that loads more efficiently.
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CMV
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all those stations & can't one-pass. Bummer. Thought it would do that.GE-Mini-Gun
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I understand 100%. I go to a machine gun shoot 6-8 times a year and the brass is free for the taking. I normally take (2) 5 gallon buckets and a kids “sand castle” shovel and fill them up, get home and separate. After which they get cleaned and processed…223’s get swaged with a Dillon 600 swage while I’m watching TV, can run through 5 gallon bucket in a couple hours…I hate doing it but something that needs done. Years back I was loading for 4 people in 5 calibers, probably 50k +/- per year, I thought long and hard about getting a 1050 for the 9mm, but in the end it wasn’t worth it. Others might disagree, but the 1050 is more of a one caliber setup, it really isn’t crazy about being changed back and forth like the other Dillon presses. Conversion kits are expensive, no faster in production then the 650, change over time is 20-30 minutes vs. 10. I’ve run them side by side, which ultimately sealed the deal on another 650, yes, the swage station is great if you miss a piece, but I’ve been running the 650’s for so long that I can feel when a crimped case is in there…pull the case and keep going. Don’t get me wrong the 1050 is a BEAST of a machine and when set up right is sweet, but it’s so close to the 650 that I couldn’t justify the price.
jmorris
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You have the trimmer already and know it and the manifold are large enough in diameter the station to either side cannot have a die installed.
This is true but when you stop your loading rate is zero, that zero is what makes the 1050 faster in production, that and you didn’t have to deprime the cases, then spend a couple hours doing a process that would be done for you as you load them.
I certainly understand them not being for everyone though.
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CMV
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Would like that press a lot, but $$$$
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